Kalk vs 2 part

alexytman

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After a previous thread, I have concluded that I will use coral coloration abcd from redsea. Since magnesium is basically always added separately, what is left is pH, Alk, and Ca. The methods for adding this that I found are kalk and 2part.

Based on what I learnt, kalk also helps reduce precipitate phosphate (on top of my GFO) The question I have is what's the difference between them? I will add kalk to ATO, (my tank has a lot of surface that are blown with a fan so evaporation is decently quick, so evap as a control is not as limited. But two part would need me to get an extra doser... which is annoying...
 

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What do you have in your tank? My first 5-6 months I was doing kalk in my ato but the dosage was too high after adding a clam and a few SPS after they all settled I saw the spike on intake. If you have a low stock low deman corals like LPS Kalk is fine, if you monitor your PH with a controller or a probe that you can constantly see it you can get away with Kalk for quite sometime, my PH was never below 8.1 using Kalk. I had to switch when I got close to one tablespoon per gallon for ATO the evaporation was too much to keep a steady top off and PH below 8.5. I have a apex and was program to only top off if my PH was below 8.5 I noticed how lil by lil my water line was getting lower and lower. I just posted a thread in regard to doing both Kalk and 2 parts, I kinda feel my tank overall looked better with Kalk than 2 parts but probably more than that involve in this observation maybe I don’t do regular water changes.
 

Oshengems

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2 parts can also be much simpler once dialed in and less maintenance I was doing Kalk in my ato and I rinsed my container at least 2-3 times a month and vinger rinse my pump to get some of the residue out
 

Hitman

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I’m doing both 2 part and Kalk with my doser. I know others that strictly dose kalk and use 2 part when needed to make large adjustments. I personally do not like using kalk in my ATO as it’s very hard on the pumps. From what ive been learning is to adjust your dosing to the stable point write it down and stick with it unless something changes while testing more then one would think is needed. Just my 2 cents but I’m still learning as well.
 

chipmunkofdoom2

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After a previous thread, I have concluded that I will use coral coloration abcd from redsea. Since magnesium is basically always added separately, what is left is pH, Alk, and Ca. The methods for adding this that I found are kalk and 2part.

Based on what I learnt, kalk also helps reduce precipitate phosphate (on top of my GFO) The question I have is what's the difference between them? I will add kalk to ATO, (my tank has a lot of surface that are blown with a fan so evaporation is decently quick, so evap as a control is not as limited. But two part would need me to get an extra doser... which is annoying...

It's generally believed that calcium hydroxide reduces phosphate in reef aquaria, but the exact mechanism by which this is done is still unknown. Consequently, we don't know how much phosphate calcium hydroxide is capable of removing. I wouldn't use limewater purely because it could reduce phosphates. If you are using it for some of its other qualities, such as calcium and carbonate alkalinity or pH boost, then it's a fine way to go.

I personally do not like dosing limewater in my ATO. ATOs are far too unreliable and imprecise for my liking. Limewater has a pretty potent pH boost and the effects of overdosing calcium and alkalinity (and in this case, pH) can be pretty devastating. I dose my limewater via a dosing pump every hour on the hour.
 

biophilia

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I also dose kalkwasser every hour with a dosing pump. Adding it to an ATO can be a huge pain because evaporation rates change so much day-to-day. What I ended up doing was figuring out my average amount of evaporation per day, dividing that volume by half and then further dividing that volume into 24 parts. That's the amount of fully-saturated kalkwasser I dose every hour which allows my ATO to pick up the rest of the slack as topoff needs change. I've been really happy with that solution as it keeps alk very stable and pH elevated (even at night). In my case, the kalk isn't enough to keep up with my tank's demand so I dose two part as well during the day.
 

Greybeard

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It's not an either or choice. Many people use both, and there's nothing wrong with that. I do... it works.

Kalk is cheap and easy, and works VERY WELL for low demand systems. Supplemented with 2pt, it continues to work VERY WELL for high demand systems.

I very highly recommend NOT using your ATO system for Kalk. I did it for years, it works, but you can't get the level of control I want that way. Evaporation rates have nothing to do with Calc/Alk needs. Get a pump, use RO/DI in your ATO. When your requirements exceed Kalk's abilities, add 2pt.
 

chipmunkofdoom2

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I also dose kalkwasser every hour with a dosing pump. Adding it to an ATO can be a huge pain because evaporation rates change so much day to day. What I ended up doing was figuring out my average amount of evaporation per day, dividing that volume by half and then further dividing that volume into 24 parts. That's the amount of fully-saturated kalkwasser I dose every hour which allows my ATO to pick up the rest of the slack as topoff needs change from day to day. I've been really happy with that solution as it keeps alk very stable and pH elevated (even at night). In my case, the kalk isn't enough to keep up with my tank's demand so I add two part via the dosing part during the daylight hours as well.

Good points here. Another thing worth considering is that if you use it in your ATO and your calcium/alkalinity trend too high, it means your limewater is too potent. You must dump your entire reservoir and mix a weaker batch. If you have it on a dosing pump, all you need to do is decrease your dose.
 

Oshengems

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I was calling considering Kalk in my ATOagain with my 2 parts, but I been keeping my tank very steady I think a doser will be better after reading this just for better stability
 

Orm Embar

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Randy has a great article on calcium/alkalinity replacement.

Background - I run a Red Sea Reefer 170 (32 gallon display with sump), no real space for dosers. Maybe a spot for an in-sump reactor of 4" diameter or less.

Having said that, I tried kalk in my ATO which led to clogging problems as I would get precipitate that clogged up the tubing.

I then went to a kalk reservoir that would drip in with an IV-style drip control apparatus, which worked but was a pain to adjust and refill.

I then went to adding Randy's homemade Ca/alkalinity 2 part (well, just alkalinity since my calcium runs high) into my ATO which has worked well but wasn't balanced. No precipitation from alk in ATO; I could add calcium by the return pump and I suspect this is what I will return to if the next option doesn't work, which leads me to . . .

Calcium formate (balanced 1-part, as formate metabolizes to alkalinity by tank bacteria) via Tropic Marin's All-For-Reef (CarboCalcium plus some trace elements). It looks convenient and simple; my only concern is that I don't need carbon dosing, but formate heoretically should be much less of a bacterial carbon dose than acetate (calcium acetate being another version of 1-part). I just got my bottle this week, so we'll see how it goes . . .

A doser would obviously make this a lot eaier; I just don't see where I would put the darn thing. Kalkwasser dosing seems very reasonable to me as long as your demand doesn't outstrip the dosing rate/evaporation.

A calcium reactor sounds cool, but makes me nervous as they seem less stable than dosing with a pump (to me); I could well be wrong about this . . .
 

Bmasculine

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I have a $75 four head jebao doser that I got eBay that I use to dose BRS 2part, mg, and kalk. Best money I’ve ever spent. I used to dose kalk in my top off and two part by hand.
 

Greybeard

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A calcium reactor sounds cool, but makes me nervous as they seem less stable than dosing with a pump (to me); I could well be wrong about this . . .

Calcium Reactors are one bit of equipment where you get what you pay for... a cheap one isn't cheap, and keeping a cheap one adjusted right is a full time job.

I built one for my 240, back in the mid 90's. Mostly using gear made for dosing CO2 to planted freshwater tanks. It worked, but I had to pay close attention to it, pretty much every day. Pulled it out of service after a few months worth of babysitting it. Just wasn't worth it.

Got a friend who runs a cheap calcium reactor... if you want to call $800 'cheap'. It's no better than the DIY one I had decades ago. Constant adjustment.

I know another reefer that's spent a bundle... 2 stage Vertex reactor, high quality electronic CO2 regulator, dual pH probes attached to his Apex... Works great. Total cost, probably 3 grand.

Don't know about you, but I could run 2pt for the rest of my natural life, it wouldn't cost me 3 grand :)
 

dannyfish

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Thanks Greybeard for sharing this info. I think I will stay with Kalkwasser and not get so fascinated with other people’s Calcium Reactors.
 
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alexytman

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It's not an either or choice. Many people use both, and there's nothing wrong with that. I do... it works.

Kalk is cheap and easy, and works VERY WELL for low demand systems. Supplemented with 2pt, it continues to work VERY WELL for high demand systems.

I very highly recommend NOT using your ATO system for Kalk. I did it for years, it works, but you can't get the level of control I want that way. Evaporation rates have nothing to do with Calc/Alk needs. Get a pump, use RO/DI in your ATO. When your requirements exceed Kalk's abilities, add 2pt.
I have a $75 four head jebao doser that I got eBay that I use to dose BRS 2part, mg, and kalk. Best money I’ve ever spent. I used to dose kalk in my top off and two part by hand.
I have a $75 four head jebao doser that I got eBay that I use to dose BRS 2part, mg, and kalk. Best money I’ve ever spent. I used to dose kalk in my top off and two part by hand.
Think I'ma do that, I also have a 4head
 

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I am a big fan of kalk and ran it for years on its own doser but with Randy/Jim new 2 part recipe using hydroxide I no longer use kalk since it has no pH benefit over this new recipe. Only use if comfortable with hydroxide!
 

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This might be something you’re interested in, the Avast kalkstirrer used with a dosing pump is a sweet combination. Once you dial in the dose for your desired parameters there is very little to do other than add kalkwasser to the stirrer every once in a while. The solution that is dosed is always the same and the concentrate stays on the bottom. The doser adds RO water to the stirrer, so no problem with clogging the lines. Dosing in your ATO is too inconsistent. Good luck
 

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