Keeping multiple fairy wrasses together?

[Zach Judge]

Hey guys. I have a 75 gallon Fish only (might add coral soon). Im not planning to stock this tank super heavily, but Id like to add a few fairy wrasses. Some of the wrasses I'm interested in are the lineatus, rhomboid, and labout's fairy wrasses. The only fish in the tank right now are two Blotchy Anthias, and a golden angelfish. If you've had any experience with mixing fairy wrasses or have kept one these fish please share any info you can. Thanks.

 

[ispookie666]

I have around 5 or 6 fairy wrasses in my 275.. the only requirement is plenty of hiding places and tight fitting lid with NO gaps.

 

[Zach Judge]

I have around 5 or 6 fairy wrasses in my 275.. the only requirement is plenty of hiding places and tight fitting lid with NO gaps.

Ok, I have a sung lid. What kinds do you have? Thanks for replying!

 

[mattzang]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...feriority-need-not-apply-1st-revision.322326/

that might be worth a read :)

 

[ispookie666]

Pin tail, C cyanopleurae, red margin...

 

[Zach Judge]

Pin tail, C cyanopleurae, red margin...

They're all beautiful fish

 

[Zach Judge]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...feriority-need-not-apply-1st-revision.322326/

that might be worth a read :)

That chart is a masterpiece. lol. Thank you

 

[eatbreakfast]

Definitely use the chart as a guide and post possible additions, as not all are compatible in a 75g. For example, lineatus and rhomboid are in the same complex, so in that size tank may have greater conflict.

 

[HairyGary]

Out of the three listed the Labouti may be the most aggressive. Put it in last if you get one and always use an acclimation box. I'd pick one of Lineatus or Rhomboid and maybe then add a Pintail.

 

[Jesterrace]

As mentioned you want to make sure you change it up so they aren't from similar lines and yes Labouts are gorgeous but can be grumpy as they get older or more established. I would strongly recommend looking into some Halichoeres Wrasses as well

 

[Zach Judge]

Definitely use the chart as a guide and post possible additions, as not all are compatible in a 75g. For example, lineatus and rhomboid are in the same complex, so in that size tank may have greater conflict.

Yea. Ive heard of people do it, but I don't know if its worth the gamble with such beautiful fish.

 

[HairyGary]

Yea. Ive heard of people do it, but I don't know if its worth the gamble with such beautiful fish.

I've done it in a 93. Also mine are young males. They were also fine together in 20L QT tank. But each fish is different.

 

[Zach Judge]

I've done it in a 93. Also mine are young males. They were also fine together in 20L QT tank. But each fish is different.

O cool! Any tips on keeping them? Also, what steps did you take to QT them.

 

[HairyGary]

O cool! Any tips on keeping them? Also, what steps did you take to QT them.

As you can see on the multi threads going on, there are many ways to QT. I do not chemically treat my fish unless I see signs of an issue. I usually TTM with two ten gallon tanks and use GC or Prazi at the end of TTM 2 and 4 for flukes. At times I will also FW dip. I then usually observe in a 20L for at least 2-3 weeks to make sure they are eating well and showing no signs of any internal parasites. Internal bugs are pretty common with wrasses so be prepared to treat food with either Metro and Focus or GC and Focus. Also, I am pretty nitpicky when it comes to watching for any signs ich or velvet. Wrasses hide both well due to their thick slime coats.

Most importantly, since they they are jumpers, a mesh cover for tank is a must! When I get ready to transfer to new tank, I drain the water from the tank down to about 1/4 left. Its easier to catch the wrasse with less water in the tank and less likely for them to jump out.

While I have had some success with this, I recently lost a couple of fish due to unknown reasons so have been thinking about changing and or tweaking my process.

Whatever you do, don't rush, be observant to issues that may arise. There are great resources for meds and treatment in the fish treatment threads. Good luck!

You might have the best luck if you add them both at the same time.

 

[ReeferBean]

As you can see on the multi threads going on, there are many ways to QT. I do not chemically treat my fish unless I see signs of an issue. I usually TTM with two ten gallon tanks and use GC or Prazi at the end of TTM 2 and 4 for flukes. At times I will also FW dip. I then usually observe in a 20L for at least 2-3 weeks to make sure they are eating well and showing no signs of any internal parasites. Internal bugs are pretty common with wrasses so be prepared to treat food with either Metro and Focus or GC and Focus. Also, I am pretty nitpicky when it comes to watching for any signs ich or velvet. Wrasses hide both well due to their thick slime coats.

Most importantly, since they they are jumpers, a mesh cover for tank is a must! When I get ready to transfer to new tank, I drain the water from the tank down to about 1/4 left. Its easier to catch the wrasse with less water in the tank and less likely for them to jump out.

While I have had some success with this, I recently lost a couple of fish due to unknown reasons so have been thinking about changing and or tweaking my process.

Whatever you do, don't rush, be observant to issues that may arise. There are great resources for meds and treatment in the fish treatment threads. Good luck!

You might have the best luck if you add them both at the same time.

Good tip on draining the tanks some... I failed to do that and had to gently pick up two fish off the garage floor when I was ready to move them to the display. They are fine, but definitely plan to drain the tanks next time prior.

 

[Zach Judge]

As you can see on the multi threads going on, there are many ways to QT. I do not chemically treat my fish unless I see signs of an issue. I usually TTM with two ten gallon tanks and use GC or Prazi at the end of TTM 2 and 4 for flukes. At times I will also FW dip. I then usually observe in a 20L for at least 2-3 weeks to make sure they are eating well and showing no signs of any internal parasites. Internal bugs are pretty common with wrasses so be prepared to treat food with either Metro and Focus or GC and Focus. Also, I am pretty nitpicky when it comes to watching for any signs ich or velvet. Wrasses hide both well due to their thick slime coats.

Most importantly, since they they are jumpers, a mesh cover for tank is a must! When I get ready to transfer to new tank, I drain the water from the tank down to about 1/4 left. Its easier to catch the wrasse with less water in the tank and less likely for them to jump out.

While I have had some success with this, I recently lost a couple of fish due to unknown reasons so have been thinking about changing and or tweaking my process.

Whatever you do, don't rush, be observant to issues that may arise. There are great resources for meds and treatment in the fish treatment threads. Good luck!

You might have the best luck if you add them both at the same time.

Thank you for responding. When looking for signs of internal parasites what d you look for, cause you said its hard to identify if they have ick? and I've never heard "GC" before, whats it mean? I also checked out ur cube build thread, and that tank is beautiful.

 

[HairyGary]

Thank you for responding. When looking for signs of internal parasites what d you look for, cause you said its hard to identify if they have ick? and I've never heard "GC" before, whats it mean? I also checked out ur cube build thread, and that tank is beautiful.

Thanks!

For internal worm etc look for white stringy poop. Generally as far as ICH goes, limited white spot on the fins or body is a give away. If numerous tiny spots with a sheen usually means velvet. With fairies and flashers they seem to hide the obvious signs due to the thicker slime coat. I would recommend doing some research on identifying infections. There are numerous threads on the subject. That way you are prepared to tackle any issues that arise during QT.

GC means General Cure. It contains both Metro and Prazi. It’s gets two birds with one stone.

Good luck!

 

[Taylor]

One of the most important Wrasse in my tank is a Halichoeres chrysus. While some sites claim they are not reef safe, you will find they are quite a good citizen. My yellow Wrasse single handily controls any red flat worm population I had among other things. The melanurs is a more striking speciman but I felt through research that fish would be slightly more agressive towards inverts. I have had my yellow Wrasse for years and from a tiny thing and now that he is maturing, he has some very nice markings that a camera would usually not pick up.