KH Guardian: Automatic Alkalinity Controller- My Experiences

JonasRoman

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@JonasRoman One of the checkers was brand new (hanna dKH meter), with new reagent. The other Hanna (ppm) was one I have used for 9 months or so, with reagent that hadn't been open more than 2 weeks. ( I test everyday, same methodology, same routine). The ppm meter never gives me the same answer twice, though it is always very close. The new meter reads 8.2 dKH no matter the sample I put in it. (From the ppm meter reading 138 ppm, dKH meter: 8.2 dKH).

Meanwhile Salifert KH titration yields a result every time that Hanna checkers are high by amost 1 dKH! Both hanna checkers read acceptable results for Hanna's alkalinity standards. Now maybe there was mishandling, it's always possible. But these readings fall within my ordinary readings. They are higher than I was trying to keep the tank (target of 7.5 dKH).

Based off of what I know, and had at my availability to test the checkers against suggests that they are wrong. Even the other checker agrees that the other hanna instrument is nearly .45 dKH off consistently from the other meter. For me, that's all I need to investigate this mystery.

Judging by my tank's inhabitants conditions, low alkalinity makes sense too me, and that's ultimately what made me decide to trust the KHG over the Hanna checkers (besides the fact that the Salifert titration consistently agrees with the KHG).

So there you have my reasoning for ditching the hanna checkers. I felt I was getting very precise (I wasn't), consistent readings (I was) from them, they were just very high (apparently). Shame on me for not cross checking with the Salifert titration constantly.

I'm not trying to bash Hanna Instruments, just share my experience, and reasoning as to why I have chosen to eliminate their use from my testing regime.
I completely agree that Hanna checker method is not a reliable method:-) I had that method (it is not an endpoint titration) in mind when I decided to built a KH measuring machine but came rapidly to the same conclusion as you. Not accurate enough but reasonable precision. Titration with acid is always the most reliable method I should say as measuring CO2 is hard to get accurate also and is expensive and requires frequent(maybe daily) recalibration.

I agree with you concerning the optimal dKH value for keeping sps especially if you have low nutritients. Very nice tank you have:-)

Jonas
 

madreefer11

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Why are the SS in/out tubes short? How can you connect longer tubes to them?
 

Jonty

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"Cant get it to purge always SW>ERR"
Reach out to Carlos@coralvue, file a support ticket.
 

Jonty

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"Man... You had my hopes up. I was hoping for some ACTUAL hands on experience, not just a look at the box."
The thread is all about hands on experience , what are you talking about?
 

tdo

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Thank you guys for posting up your experiences and helping others! I am patiently waiting here with this thing in my cart, just can't seem to pull the trigger yet. Reading this thread has certainly helped sway me in the right direction
 

Carlos@CoralVue

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Why are the SS in/out tubes short? How can you connect longer tubes to them?
SW IN is the one that you really can only extend to 3' and no longer. This is to ensure that when the unit runs a test, it uses fresh tank water and not water that was stuck in the line from the last test.

The SW OUT line can be extended without any issues.
 

madreefer11

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SW IN is the one that you really can only extend to 3' and no longer. This is to ensure that when the unit runs a test, it uses fresh tank water and not water that was stuck in the line from the last test.

The SW OUT line can be extended without any issues.
So I can't extend the Sodium Bicarbonate IN tube nor the Reagent IN tube?
 

madreefer11

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Did you install the check valve in the correct orientation?
yes

IMG_1441.jpg
 

madreefer11

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trying to SW-Tube-DeGas. The unit reboots itself after the error. My guess the PUMP doesn't work.

2/11 19:36:06 Save New System Environment.
02/11 19:36:56 Save New System Environment.
02/11 21:38:16 Save New System Environment.
02/11 18:42:57 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 18:44:14 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 18:45:19 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 18:52:24 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 18:55:14 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 18:57:45 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 18:59:04 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 19:01:25 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 19:05:18 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 19:13:31 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 19:17:24 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
02/11 19:19:08 W.161 KS=0D L%0 S%0 SW>_ERR KH :0.00
 
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madreefer11

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So what does this mean

Please recheck and make sure all tubes are connected as instructed
above. Go to your browser and click on “SW Tube De-Gas” to purge
air from your tank water inlet tube. First attempt to draw tank water
and purge air, KHG may show NSWE error message (No Salt Water
Entering).
To cancel the error message, you should press and hold
the number 4 button until you hear a beep and release button.
Please click on the “SW Tube De-Gas” for as many times as out of required until tank water are owing the inlet tube.

Do you the BOLD before SW Tube-De-Gas. The instructions are vague.
 

madreefer11

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Remove the acrylic toothpick from the line and attach the tube directly to the check valve. That will solve the problem. Right now, the toothpick is preventing water from being drawn in.

Easy fix!!
I feel like the dumbest guy in the universe! LOL The toothpick is hard to remove. Can I just cut the tube?
 

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