Klir Filter Review.

pecan2phat · Jul 7, 2020

Well I would think that you want one unit to clog and then the other to do the same thus raising the water level to trigger the sensor for both units to turn and lower the water level.
If each were it's separate unit then the 1st unit would run it's fleece considerably more than the 2nd unit IMO and might even render the 2nd unit from advancing it's roll at all thus negating it's purpose.
Just my opinion on how I see it.

jcl123 · Jul 7, 2020

Jeff@CoralVue said:
We put them on sale because we have 900+ more on the way and we don't want to be overstocked. We are moving into a new building early next year. It's being built from the ground so it's very geared toward the CoralVue of today and not the CV of 16 years ago. We have been taking active measures to keep our current location as clutter-free as possible, but it's hard because we outgrew it long ago. If you guys are ever interested in buying new open box products for less than MAP, please join our Outlet Store group on Facebook.

The models currently on the market are already new(er) versions with refinements that are known to the public. I think we'll need to update our product description and provide it to our retail partners so they can update theirs accordingly. I had suggested we call them V2 or G2 (or whatever) and offer it as a new SKU because the stink of the original model with the underpowered motor is hard to wash off. I threw out the idea of a simple but noticeable change, like making the lid a different color, so people could differentiate between older and new generations... but the current shipment was already in production.

In our beta tester group for the HYDROS Controllers, users have replaced the stock optical eye on the Klir with a HYDROS water level sensor. This eliminates the need for the original Klir controller entirely since you can control the filter with HYDROS. The benefit is you can create your own custom rules for even better operation and safety. You can set the rules however you'd like, such as experimenting with different start and stop times. If you want, you could ditch the optical eye entirely and control the Klir through an outlet. You could set it to run once an hour, once a day, or whatever you interval you like. Or maybe it only operates when the flow is at a certain rate. You could set the maximum time the roll will spin. If a fair amount of users combine HYDROS with Klir, I think we would be in a better, more informed position to release a smarter standalone Klir controller based on data we collect. I don't know if the cost would be worth it, but we shall see.

In terms of new innovations with Klir, actually there is a new one on the way: a hang-on Klir that doesn't need to be placed in a filter sock holder. It may even be in the next shipment.

Any new product announcements at MACNA 2019?

Does it really end there? I bought a new MP10 and an AI Prime. Hysterical to get advice from Ecotech. I tried three different reps. All were worthless. Q) How much flow do you recommend for a 7g? A) Just play around and see what works. Q) How much flow is estimated on Lagoon level 1? A) You’d...

www.reef2reef.com

Hello Jeff,

I want to say thank you for posting this explanation. I was looking at other stuff and saw the big price drop, and feared "oh crap, they are dumping these things...." So, is this a limited time sale or a permanent price change? I am not quite finished building my tank, so I would hate to burn through the warranty with it just sitting there, but at this price I am re-thinking that.

I also want to congratulate you on your customer service, these units did not have the best introduction but you listened to people and made changes. I very rarely see any company do this to this level. This is perhaps the #1 reason I am considering these.

I have been eyeing this thread for awhile. I plan to go "mostly" Triton so my rig is geared for a high flow rate. But, I don't trust that I will always do Triton or pure Triton, so I wanted to "be able to" run these if I wanted to.

So, I took a 20G acrylic tank and modified it to hold two of those Klir DI-7 self-standing brackets, and mounted it as a "pre-sump" before the main sump and algae scrubber. I might even grab water off of it for the skimmer.

My flow rate is actually about 1500GPH, so technically one unit would do it. But I don't trust the flow rates manufacturers put on filters and pumps. I have Sicce ADC pumps that are "rated" 2500GPH each, and measuring them open-ended in a bucket with no restriction they can't even do half that.

The other fear I have is that with a heavy load I would burn through one roll too fast so I wanted to be able to spread the load.

Each unit would have it's own full-siphon (and one emergency) coming from the tank, so I would not chain them as the flow rate will differ slightly due to piping distances and such.

-JCL

mike550 · Jul 8, 2020

infinite0180 said:
Check this out!

That's a really sweet mod! Great design.

mike550 · Jul 8, 2020

Does anyone have a pinout of the optical sensor? It looks like there are three conductors to it, "tip", "ring" and "sleeve". I'm thinking about replacing the optical sensor with either a different optical sensor or tying it into a GHL controller. Thanks in advance.

Letterkenny · Jul 22, 2020

How long do all your filter rolls last? It seems that mine is quickly burning through it.

mike550 · Jul 22, 2020

Letterkenny said:
How long do all your filter rolls last? It seems that mine is quickly burning through it.

I’m still trying to figure this out. But my filter got stuck when a small snail lodged itself between the fleece and a roller. Since I had to repair the system I also pulled out the used fleece and measured it.

My very rough estimate is 50-60 days on my 120G. I feeed frozen daily and my bio load is fairly light.

I also moved the optical sensor off of the housing and now it sits in one of my sump overflow slots. So I get a bit more time in the filter before it advances. I found that splashing and stuff were accidentally triggering the sensor when it was in the housing.

Letterkenny · Jul 22, 2020

mike550 said:
I’m still trying to figure this out. But my filter got stuck when a small snail lodged itself between the fleece and a roller. Since I had to repair the system I also pulled out the used fleece and measured it.

My very rough estimate is 50-60 days on my 120G. I feeed frozen daily and my bio load is fairly light.

I also moved the optical sensor off of the housing and now it sits in one of my sump overflow slots. So I get a bit more time in the filter before it advances. I found that splashing and stuff were accidentally triggering the sensor when it was in the housing.

Mine has only been in operation a couple weeks and it looks like it really has gone through a lot of the roll.

mike550 · Jul 22, 2020

Letterkenny said:
Mine has only been in operation a couple weeks and it looks like it really has gone through a lot of the roll.

Yikes. Is the alarm going off? I think it beeps if the motor runs more than 20 seconds?

Letterkenny · Jul 23, 2020

mike550 said:
Yikes. Is the alarm going off? I think it beeps if the motor runs more than 20 seconds?

No it’s not running for a long time. I believe I loose some to fixing a fallen over coral because when I put my arm in there it has been running for the length of time I am fixing it. Didn’t used to do that though.

pecan2phat · Jul 23, 2020

DI-4 or DI-7?
Also I don't really believe that the manufacturer's flow rates for these roller mats are that accurate, meaning that the filter fleece will roll more if your near or are over their recommended max flow rates. As an example for the DI-4, I believe the recommended max flow is 750 gph but I need to turn down to 600 gph for an optimum operation of the DI-4.

SkiCatTX · Jul 23, 2020

pecan2phat said:
DI-4 or DI-7?
Also I don't really believe that the manufacturer's flow rates for these roller mats are that accurate, meaning that the filter fleece will roll more if your near or are over their recommended max flow rates. As an example for the DI-4, I believe the recommended max flow is 750 gph but I need to turn down to 600 gph for an optimum operation of the DI-4.

I have the Di-7 which says 1800, but I'm running my brand new 180g at 1000 while it cycles and it's barely able to keep up. The water runs just below the sensor. I'm not sure it could handle more completely clean water.

SkiCatTX · Jul 23, 2020

Also, it has been alarming regularly at 2am. When I power cycle it, the motor just keeps running so I have to leave it off until morning. Just discovered that if I jiggle the motor wire it causes it to run randomly...so I think there is a short. Sent email off to support.

RyanHoan · Jul 27, 2020

Hi Everyone,

Has anyone come up with a DIY way to "leak proof" the seal between the klir and your filter sock holes? If I use the largest klir fitting, it raises the klir too high and the water just overflows into the next sump section without activating the optical sensor.

I'm hoping there's a common product at Homedepot or something that works perfectly for this issue.

Thank you

mike550 · Jul 27, 2020

RyanHoan said:
Hi Everyone,

Has anyone come up with a DIY way to "leak proof" the seal between the klir and your filter sock holes? If I use the largest klir fitting, it raises the klir too high and the water just overflows into the next sump section without activating the optical sensor.

I'm hoping there's a common product at Homedepot or something that works perfectly for this issue.

Thank you

Getting a “leak proof” seal is a challenge / pain. I ended up having to cut a thin sheet of plexiglass to sit between the filter hole and the Klir fitting. Not perfect and I’m sure I’ll redo it.

But I had a similar problem with the optical sensor, so I ended up moving the sensor into the bottom of one of the overflow slots. Now it triggers just as the water starts to hit the overflow. Also — mount the sensor so that the prism edge is vertical. Apparently that helps with sensitivity and reliability. Not mentioned in any Klir documents or videos. Picked it up from someone on R2R.

SkiCatTX · Jul 27, 2020

RyanHoan said:
Hi Everyone,

Has anyone come up with a DIY way to "leak proof" the seal between the klir and your filter sock holes? If I use the largest klir fitting, it raises the klir too high and the water just overflows into the next sump section without activating the optical sensor.

I'm hoping there's a common product at Homedepot or something that works perfectly for this issue.

Thank you

I bought a small sheet of 1/8” silicone off Amazon, like you’d use for cooking surfaces or whatever. Cut to fit like a gasket. Working pretty well so far.