Lasses Dream Build

[Euphylliaphyle]

More testing experiments. Have test with Tropic Marin PO4 test pro and "the German Methode" to use Hanna to analyze PO4. I will say - with Hanna Marine Master - no good results and more unstable than Hannas own reagent. However - if I use TM PO4 pro the way it should be used - I get very stable results - but rather low - between 0.05 - 0.08

when Hanna (with Hanna´s reagent) report between 0.09-0.19 ppm.

Which analyze that´s nearest the true value - I do not know - but I will sen in an ICP rather soon - and after that I can compare - note - I send to OCEAMO and the do not use ICP for PO4 - they use another method

But still - I´m not very satisfied with Hanna and I decided to buy new sample cuvettes.

I did a comparison with my old cuvettes and the new one. At zero - they was equal but in a serie of three samplings - there was a different between new and old

The mean difference was 0.05 mg/L (ppm)!

Lesson learn - buy new cuvettes now and than

Sincerely Lasse

Lasse, what do you believe is the reason for the apparent cuvette deterioration? Glass staining? Micro scratches on outside? Etching on inside? Residue build-up? Something else?

 

[EnterName]

More testing experiments. Have test with Tropic Marin PO4 test pro and "the German Methode" to use Hanna to analyze PO4. I will say - with Hanna Marine Master - no good results and more unstable than Hannas own reagent. However - if I use TM PO4 pro the way it should be used - I get very stable results - but rather low - between 0.05 - 0.08

when Hanna (with Hanna´s reagent) report between 0.09-0.19 ppm.

Which analyze that´s nearest the true value - I do not know - but I will sen in an ICP rather soon - and after that I can compare - note - I send to OCEAMO and the do not use ICP for PO4 - they use another method

But still - I´m not very satisfied with Hanna and I decided to buy new sample cuvettes.

I did a comparison with my old cuvettes and the new one. At zero - they was equal but in a serie of three samplings - there was a different between new and old

The mean difference was 0.05 mg/L (ppm)!

Lesson learn - buy new cuvettes now and than

Sincerely Lasse

The accuracy of the phosphate test is ±5% of the reading ± 0.02ppm (∆ 0.04ppm).

If my math isn't off this means the 0.05ppm difference would be exactly what you would expect for your approx. 0.15ppm readings in that case:
+0.02ppm - (-0.02ppm) + 5% • 0.15ppm ≈ 0.05ppm

I know that Si interferes with the PO₄ test method over time, so maybe the glass itself reacts slowly and stains even when it is rinsed thoroughly after each use. I'm not sure how effective it is long-term but filling the vials with HCl from time to time seems to get rid of some of the blue staining more effectively than rinsing alone does.

I have gone through quite a few vials over the years and no matter how careful I am, it seems like the HannaChecker itself scratches the glass, which is very frustrating. Sooner or later the vials have to be replaced...

 

[Lasse]

I know that Si interferes with the PO₄ test method over time, so maybe the glass itself reacts slowly and stains even when it is rinsed thoroughly after each use. I'm not sure how effective it is long-term but filling the vials with HCl from time to time seems to get rid of some of the blue staining more effectively than rinsing alone does.

I will test to store the old vials with 0.1 N HCL for a while

Lasse, what do you believe is the reason for the apparent cuvette deterioration? Glass staining? Micro scratches on outside? Etching on inside? Residue build-up? Something else?

This is a problem - I get an off reading even if the differences in the average is within the margin of error. However - IMO - this is a real difference between these cuvettes. But why and how? If I fill them with RO water - both show 0.00 - it looks like its only when the dye comes in that I get a difference. after a test - I always fill them up with RODI water (after a rinse)

Glass staining?

Not likely - IMO

Micro scratches on outside?

Could be if they send part of the light beam apart from the reciver

Etching on inside? Residue build-up?

Difficult to believe this because I rinse every time and sometimes with acid.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

Long time since I publish anything about my fishes or videos. Sadly - my beloved copperband died a couple of weeks ago. I got this fish more than 6 years ago and I put it in my refugium for 14 days, Feeding with frozen bloodworms and frozen adult artemia and the refugium was loaded with pods. After 2 weeks it got into my DT and soon he/she was fighting with the others about the food - mainly adult artemia and freshwater cyclops.

This fish is seen as a very difficult fish to get to eat our food. I did not have any problem with
my old fish - a friend of mine use the same method when he adapted his Copperband many years ago and its still alive.

When I purchase a new fish - I normally ask my LFS to take home this fish and I take it directly when they get it in the plastic bag. I prefer to buy direct imported fish- not fish that have been in some of the large European fish importers. This time - I had to get it from one of the largest importers in Europa. I got it 2/9 and it get directly into an adaption box in my DT because I could not use the refugium this time.

It got some shelter and I start to feed with mainly frozen bloodworms but also some frozen adult artemia. I know that a lot of people will say - you can´t use bloodworms for saltwater fish - everything evil in the world will strike them like a bolt of lightning. Lucky for me - my new fishes probably have not heard this - they survive. IMO - as a start for many picky and difficult fishes - bloodworms works perfectly.

I have three reasons why I use an an adaption box.

1) calm and rest after a stressful journey
2) it need to start to adapt to the food and start to eat
3) It needs to get the same smell as the other fishes - or the others need to be used of the the newcomer's pheromones in order to greatly limit the aggressions when the newcomer is introduced in DT.

This particular method of letting the fish have water contact with each other through an acclimatization box or that at the end of the quarantine you gradually transfer the old water to the quarantine has proven to be very effective in achieving a calm and harmonious introduction of new fish. If you use quarantine, you can also use an acclimatization box for a few days before the newcomer is released.

Before I release a new arrival, I feed quite a lot on the same day and I wait until about 5 minutes before the light goes out to release it. And absolutely no flashlight to see how it goes!



Sincerely Lasse

 

[Freenow54]

Long time since I publish anything about my fishes or videos. Sadly - my beloved copperband died a couple of weeks ago. I got this fish more than 6 years ago and I put it in my refugium for 14 days, Feeding with frozen bloodworms and frozen adult artemia and the refugium was loaded with pods. After 2 weeks it got into my DT and soon he/she was fighting with the others about the food - mainly adult artemia and freshwater cyclops.

This fish is seen as a very difficult fish to get to eat our food. I did not have any problem with
my old fish - a friend of mine use the same method when he adapted his Copperband many years ago and its still alive.

When I purchase a new fish - I normally ask my LFS to take home this fish and I take it directly when they get it in the plastic bag. I prefer to buy direct imported fish- not fish that have been in some of the large European fish importers. This time - I had to get it from one of the largest importers in Europa. I got it 2/9 and it get directly into an adaption box in my DT because I could not use the refugium this time.

It got some shelter and I start to feed with mainly frozen bloodworms but also some frozen adult artemia. I know that a lot of people will say - you can´t use bloodworms for saltwater fish - everything evil in the world will strike them like a bolt of lightning. Lucky for me - my new fishes probably have not heard this - they survive. IMO - as a start for many picky and difficult fishes - bloodworms works perfectly.

I have three reasons why I use an an adaption box.

1) calm and rest after a stressful journey
2) it need to start to adapt to the food and start to eat
3) It needs to get the same smell as the other fishes - or the others need to be used of the the newcomer's pheromones in order to greatly limit the aggressions when the newcomer is introduced in DT.

This particular method of letting the fish have water contact with each other through an acclimatization box or that at the end of the quarantine you gradually transfer the old water to the quarantine has proven to be very effective in achieving a calm and harmonious introduction of new fish. If you use quarantine, you can also use an acclimatization box for a few days before the newcomer is released.

Before I release a new arrival, I feed quite a lot on the same day and I wait until about 5 minutes before the light goes out to release it. And absolutely no flashlight to see how it goes!



Sincerely Lasse

I won a beautiful Acclimation box from this site , and never thought I would have a use for it. Now because of your thread I do. Sorry for the loss. I take things like that personal too