Leopard Wrasse Starving Herself

[Idoc]

It's extremely sad to watch this occurring. I picked up 2 leopard wrasses from my LFS about 6 weeks ago. One is thriving in quarantine, and the other just started starving herself.

The weak one was the slowest to bury itself initially, last to start taking frozen food as well. But she just stopped eating... and then also refused live brine that she was initially eating. She would go up after the food aggressively and then turn away and ignore it... while her tank mate would make herself fat from over eating.

Now, she is no longer burying herself, razor thin, lying on her side, and won't eat anything even if it is laying on the bottom right by her nose. Agonizing watching her starve herself. I think we are beyond the point of no return now.

 

[maroun.c]

those tend to be tricky on intro. I would try as many different foods as you can get your hands on hoping it'll take to something. I hope it's not to late already. how is breathing?
a freshwater dip might relieve anything in the gills which might be causing the fish to be in distress but at this stage might end-up killing the fish as well.
wrasses frequently have intestinal parasites but a prazi treatment at this stage can also be very stressful. very sad indeed as these are beautiful fish.

 

[BadPanda]

Try some garlic or some selcon. I used both to get my blue star to start eating frozen mysis. Unfortunately, I had the same thing happen with a leopard wrasse last year. It was so weak that I could pick it with no resistance. Died a week later. Crossing fingers for you and hope what happened to me doesn't happen to you.

 

[ccombs]

Best of luck on the recovery effort!

 

[BertieBones]

So sad, please keep us updated

 

[ca1ore]

Once they get to the point of pinching behind the head they're almost always beyond recovery. Not susceptible to skin parasites, but leopards do regularly come in with internal parasites so something like prazipro is necessary. They also don't acclimate well and not unusual for one to refuse to eat. BTW, if that sand container next to the body is for them, its far too coarse. You should be using fine sand (seafloor grade at the biggest).

 

[Lukas75]

I'm sorry, bringing in the cavalry to see if they have any advice. @ngoodermuth @HotRocks @Humblefish @4FordFamily

 

[ngoodermuth]

I’d suspect internal parasites, unfortunately the only thing you can do when it gets to the point that they stop eating is dose the water column with general cure or metroplex, and hope they will perk up enough take food...

It would be a good idea, since they do share a tank to treat the other as a preventative, with food soaked in either general cure (preferred) or metroplex + focus. 1 scoop of medicine + 1 scoop of focus per tablespoon frozen food. Feed at least twice daily for 14 days (or longer if you notice white-stringy poop after 14 days... sometimes can take up to 3 weeks)

 

[4FordFamily]

I’d suspect internal parasites, unfortunately the only thing you can do when it gets to the point that they stop eating is dose the water column with general cure or metroplex, and hope they will perk up enough take food...

It would be a good idea, since they do share a tank to treat the other as a preventative, with food soaked in either general cure (preferred) or metroplex + focus. 1 scoop of medicine + 1 scoop of focus per tablespoon frozen food. Feed at least twice daily for 14 days (or longer if you notice white-stringy poop after 14 days... sometimes can take up to 3 weeks)

I agree 100%. Leopard wrasse also love live blackworms, and live brine to elicit a feeding response.

 

[Idoc]

I’d suspect internal parasites, unfortunately the only thing you can do when it gets to the point that they stop eating is dose the water column with general cure or metroplex, and hope they will perk up enough take food...

It would be a good idea, since they do share a tank to treat the other as a preventative, with food soaked in either general cure (preferred) or metroplex + focus. 1 scoop of medicine + 1 scoop of focus per tablespoon frozen food. Feed at least twice daily for 14 days (or longer if you notice white-stringy poop after 14 days... sometimes can take up to 3 weeks)

Yes, both have been moved out of their first quarantine tank with the copper treatment to their new sterile quarantine tank for the remainder of their treatments. I've dosed the water column with the first dose of General Cure last night.

I attempted to feed Metro/Focus early on in their copper treatment phase when they were both eating...I say both eating, but really the one in question wins only eat a couple bits then stop. I was suspecting internal parasites due to the thinning. I stopped after a day with the medicated food cuz the healthy one started adding odd and swimming strangely...i was concerned it was too much with the copper treatment at the same time. Once stopping, she went back to normal behavior. I have never seen any poo from the sick leopard in question, though. The healthy one goes to the bathroom regularly and it's never white or stringy.

Im going to attempt to feed the metro/focus food again today once the healthy one pops up out of the sand.

 

[Idoc]

I agree 100%. Leopard wrasse also love live blackworms, and live brine to elicit a feeding response.

I tried live brine at the beginning... while training to go to frozen. The stock one was impartial either way. She really had only picked at a little food and then just wouldn't eat anymore while the healthy one ate like crazy. The sick one also looked like she was grazing and looking for food delivered on the bottom of the tank, though. Now, I'm getting no response besides occasionally moving, resting up-right, then falling over into her side.

I think she is a goner now... I was thinking of attempting to force feed her medicated food with a pipette, but I think the pipette end is maybe slightly too large. I might try it tonight if i don't see any improvement in her alertness after dosing the water column with General Cure last night.

 

[Idoc]

Once they get to the point of pinching behind the head they're almost always beyond recovery. Not susceptible to skin parasites, but leopards do regularly come in with internal parasites so something like prazipro is necessary. They also don't acclimate well and not unusual for one to refuse to eat. BTW, if that sand container next to the body is for them, its far too coarse. You should be using fine sand (seafloor grade at the biggest).

I used some Caribsea aragonite for the quarantine tank. I have a mixture of Tropic Eden Mesoflakes and Miniflakes in my DT... hopefully that won't be too course for them! The DT sand does look a little smaller grade than what I have in the quarantine container.

I started General Cure water treatment last night. Maybe the metro/Praziquantel in that will help a little to perk up the sick one since she seems beyond going after food herself now.

 

[Idoc]

Once they get to the point of pinching behind the head they're almost always beyond recovery. Not susceptible to skin parasites, but leopards do regularly come in with internal parasites so something like prazipro is necessary. They also don't acclimate well and not unusual for one to refuse to eat. BTW, if that sand container next to the body is for them, its far too coarse. You should be using fine sand (seafloor grade at the biggest).

I’d suspect internal parasites, unfortunately the only thing you can do when it gets to the point that they stop eating is dose the water column with general cure or metroplex, and hope they will perk up enough take food...

It would be a good idea, since they do share a tank to treat the other as a preventative, with food soaked in either general cure (preferred) or metroplex + focus. 1 scoop of medicine + 1 scoop of focus per tablespoon frozen food. Feed at least twice daily for 14 days (or longer if you notice white-stringy poop after 14 days... sometimes can take up to 3 weeks)

I agree 100%. Leopard wrasse also love live blackworms, and live brine to elicit a feeding response.

This fish is a fighter! I can't believe she hasn't died yet... probably 2-3 weeks of hearing on the bottom, not eating, razor thin, and still trying to move! After the first General Cure dose, she was actually swimming a little... but went back to laying in the bottom now.

This morning, i took her out to closely inspect and saw this string attached to her nose area (top of head). I'm not sure if it is a mucus strand or not. Its not moving at all. Wondering if she regurgitated a stomach worm?

 

[ngoodermuth]

Do you have pets? Kind of looks like a dog or cat hair...

 

[coral-boss]

any way you can force feed her with a pipette or syringe maybe if you grab her? idk if that's even a possible idea but maybe its worth a shot to get some meds into her system with the food

 

[User1]

It would be a good idea, since they do share a tank to treat the other as a preventative, with food soaked in either general cure (preferred) or metroplex + focus. 1 scoop of medicine + 1 scoop of focus per tablespoon frozen food. Feed at least twice daily for 14 days (or longer if you notice white-stringy poop after 14 days... sometimes can take up to 3 weeks)

Follow-up question if you will after a fish loss for unknown reasons a month back (Lt. Tang). The tang was doing very well and healthy then one day I noticed it has passed. Unexpected and no signs (visibly that is) as to why along with all other fish being accounted for. Baring age or anything else unknown (I had it for a year) I did notice white stringy poop on one occasion or maybe a white'ish swirly thing on a couple occasions.

I do not run a Q-tank / stand-by if you will so wanted to ask what the general cure or metroplex is and how it works when soaking the food? I'm guessing it is similar to how you add Selcon to food by letting it soak. My question I if this is something I could have maybe done for my tang by soaking his nori with this and add to the DT. If so what is the recipe or is there a FAQ.

 

[ngoodermuth]

Follow-up question if you will after a fish loss for unknown reasons a month back (Lt. Tang). The tang was doing very well and healthy then one day I noticed it has passed. Unexpected and no signs (visibly that is) as to why along with all other fish being accounted for. Baring age or anything else unknown (I had it for a year) I did notice white stringy poop on one occasion or maybe a white'ish swirly thing on a couple occasions.

I do not run a Q-tank / stand-by if you will so wanted to ask what the general cure or metroplex is and how it works when soaking the food? I'm guessing it is similar to how you add Selcon to food by letting it soak. My question I if this is something I could have maybe done for my tang by soaking his nori with this and add to the DT. If so what is the recipe or is there a FAQ.

You need to use a binder to attach the medication to the food, seachem Focus is most effective and commonly used for this purpose.

Frozen food works best for this, I use mysis. Thaw a couple of cubes and drain excess water out. Then, add the medication and focus. For general cure, I use 2 scoops of GC + a heaping scoop of focus. For metroplex, it’s 1 scoop metro + 1 scoop focus.

General cure has an advantage over metroplex in that it treats internal flagellates AND intestinal worms.

Stir and let sit for 20-30 mins before feeding and refrigerate leftovers. Can add a couple of drops of selcon/vita-chem or water if you need it to be a bit more “wet” to mix, but you don’t want to water it down too much.

Feed twice daily, for 2-3 weeks or until you no longer see white stringy poop.

 

[cain720]

Mine did this exact same thing.

I acclimated him and he was acting fine for about a week before showing symptoms like yours. I actually thought he died because hermits were picking at his fins, but he swam away when I went to scoop him out. I decided the sickness was a result of stress, so I decided to leave him alone and hope for the best. Amazingly he ended up making a full recovery and 6 months later is thriving.

At this point I'd probably leave him alone. Taking him out of the tank, medicating, and force feeding will stress him out even more and likely kill him.

 

[Oshengems]

Leopards are hit or miss, when my LFS bring them in it’s usually 5-6-7 and you can tell the ones that are gonna make it vs the ones that are on decline even when they are active, if they are not scare of you or flinch easily they are on a downhill

 

[User1]

You need to use a binder to attach the medication to the food, seachem Focus is most effective and commonly used for this purpose.

Frozen food works best for this, I use mysis. Thaw a couple of cubes and drain excess water out. Then, add the medication and focus. For general cure, I use 2 scoops of GC + a heaping scoop of focus. For metroplex, it’s 1 scoop metro + 1 scoop focus.

General cure has an advantage over metroplex in that it treats internal flagellates AND intestinal worms.

Stir and let sit for 20-30 mins before feeding and refrigerate leftovers. Can add a couple of drops of selcon/vita-chem or water if you need it to be a bit more “wet” to mix, but you don’t want to water it down too much.

Feed twice daily, for 2-3 weeks or until you no longer see white stringy poop.

Thank you. I wasn't sure how it was added and missed the part (didn't understand actually the binder part) on the binder. So sounds like I could have added this to food properly and the Display tank. Noted for next time if I see something like that in their waste.

Thank you again. Good info.