Let’s not start an argument please! Best temp control?

[CoralDanimal]

Thanks for starting this thread OP. I'm a huge fan of consistency with my parameters so I've been trying to keep my temp within a tight range (.2) as well.

After watching the BRS heater investigates, I've been using two Cobalt Neo-Therms, which have internal controllers. One set at 78, which the EB8 turns off in case the temperature gets above 78.2 and one set at 76, in case the first one fails.

I've never had a Neo-Therm fail so the back-up has never had to be used and the main Neo-Therm is actually really consistent for me. I have two temp probes on my Apex. One in my return chamber, which is where the main Neo-Therm is, and one in the overflow chamber to monitor the temp coming back from the DT.

Here is my 24 hour plot:

Only reason it got above 78.20 was because I didn't have my fan plugged in yesterday.

As for the EB8 turning on and off too much, which can harm the EB8's reliability, how much is too much? On hot days, I've monitored my output log and my fan is turning on and off ~20 times per day. Is that too much wear on the EB8?

 

[siggy]

Not sure about best, but I have been using this for 10 months and I no longer even think about temp, it's always where it's supposed to be. I did seal the metallic probe with clear shrink tube, and I am using a BRS 300 watt titanium heating element. It runs about $65 for the controller and pre wired for about $85. Amazon

Johnson Controls A421ABG-02C A421 Series Electronic Temperature Control with Pre Wired Power Cord, -40 to 212 Degree F Temperature Range
Style:A421ABG-02C
Size:6.5 ft. (2m)
Configuration:NEMA 1

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Thanks for starting this thread OP. I'm a huge fan of consistency with my parameters so I've been trying to keep my temp within a tight range (.2) as well.

After watching the BRS heater investigates, I've been using two Cobalt Neo-Therms, which have internal controllers. One set at 78, which the EB8 turns off in case the temperature gets above 78.2 and one set at 76, in case the first one fails.

I've never had a Neo-Therm fail so the back-up has never had to be used and the main Neo-Therm is actually really consistent for me. I have two temp probes on my Apex. One in my return chamber, which is where the main Neo-Therm is, and one in the overflow chamber to monitor the temp coming back from the DT.

Here is my 24 hour plot:

Only reason it got above 78.20 was because I didn't have my fan plugged in yesterday.

As for the EB8 turning on and off too much, which can harm the EB8's reliability, how much is too much? On hot days, I've monitored my output log and my fan is turning on and off ~20 times per day. Is that too much wear on the EB8?

That looks pretty darn flat to me! Regarding the switching duties on the eb8, I’m honestly not sure. But I know I don’t mine switching as much as it does in a day that’s for sure! Maybe some here can answer, anyone know what the lifespan on a eb832 mechanical switch is?

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Not sure about best, but I have been using this for 10 months and I no longer even think about temp, it's always where it's supposed to be. I did seal the metallic probe with clear shrink tube, and I am using a BRS 300 watt titanium heating element. It runs about $65 for the controller and pre wired for about $85. Amazon

Johnson Controls A421ABG-02C A421 Series Electronic Temperature Control with Pre Wired Power Cord, -40 to 212 Degree F Temperature Range
Style:A421ABG-02C
Size:6.5 ft. (2m)
Configuration:NEMA 1

I can’t seem to find the temperature deferential on this control reading through the amazon listing. I may just have missed it. Do you know what it is?

 

[siggy]

I can’t seem to find the temperature deferential on this control reading through the amazon listing. I may just have missed it. Do you know what it is?

Enjoy ;Wacky https://www.johnsoncontrols.com/-/m...iles/be_cat_penn_sselectronictempcontrols.pdf

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

Enjoy ;Wacky https://www.johnsoncontrols.com/-/m...iles/be_cat_penn_sselectronictempcontrols.pdf

Don’t hate me but I don’t see the temp differential anywhere in any of that... hahaha. When you programmed yours does it allow to be programmed to the tenth of a degree or just the degree? Can you program it to let’s just say, on at 77.7 off at 78.1 or just on at 77 off at 78?

 

[siggy]

Don’t hate me but I don’t see the temp differential anywhere in any of that... hahaha. When you programmed yours does it allow to be programmed to the tenth of a degree or just the degree? Can you program it to let’s just say, on at 77.7 off at 78.1 or just on at 77 off at 78?

I did not get that far into it. I used the default parameters and set it to 78F, its always at 78.
Dig deeper if you want to shave hair algae. https://www.beveragefactory.com/images/guides/A421ABJ-02C-manual.pdf

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

I did not get that far into it. I used the default parameters and set it to 78F, its always at 78.
Dig deeper if you want to shave hair algae. https://www.beveragefactory.com/images/guides/A421ABJ-02C-manual.pdf

Shave hair algae! I’m soooo stealing that! Thank you for the reading material!

 

[siggy]

It's not a glamorous piece of tech, but it is an industrial grade component that should give years of rock solid performance.
The old timers use Ranco...same thing only different... Marine Depot ...i think....G/L

 

[laverda]

In summary:

Any heater controller- regardless of the brand, can and eventually WILL fail. The only way to prevent a disaster is to have redundant controllers, such as using your apex to shut off the primary controller if the temperature ever gets above a certain level. Very basic code to use the outlet like that; "Set on" & "If Tmp > 80 then off".

High quality titanium heating elements are the best to use. No glass ones that can shatter and poison/electrocute the tank. BulkReefSupply has a great line of heating elements that is made by Shego in Germany.

After keeping that in mind, there are many heater controllers you can use. Finnex makes one, InkBird makes several models- some with dual temperature probes and/or wifi, or BulkReefSupply has their version of the InkBird.

You can also use a heater that has a built in thermostat- I use a Neotherm on my reefer 350, which is plugged into an apex for an emergency cutoff.

InkBird Wifi controller, with dual probes for redundancy:


InkBird version for heating AND cooling:

I hate to say it but my experience with titanium heaters has been horrible with everyone I ever used failing with in a few months. One corroded through the titanium and I got zapped big time by it. It was only a couple months old and under warranty, so I returned it.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

It's not a glamorous piece of tech, but it is an industrial grade component that should give years of rock solid performance.
The old timers use Ranco...same thing only different... Marine Depot ...i think....G/L

A hunting I will go thank you!

 

[laverda]

It's not a glamorous piece of tech, but it is an industrial grade component that should give years of rock solid performance.
The old timers use Ranco...same thing only different... Marine Depot ...i think....G/L

I agree. If you want the most reliable temperature controller these are the way to go. They are industrial controllers that have been around a long time. They were designed for years and years of use on critical heating and cooling equipment. You can get single stage ones to control either heating and cooling or duel stage to control both. Several companies sell them with their brand label on them. Many Chiller companies supply they as their controller or recommend them.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

I hate to say it but my experience with titanium heaters has been horrible with everyone I ever used failing with in a few months. One corroded through the titanium and I got zapped big time by it. It was only a couple months old and under warranty, so I returned it.

Ouch!!! My husband got hammered pretty good in that post I mentioned about our Queen Trigger deciding he didn’t want the heater in the tank anymore!!! I haven’t had issues yet with the titanium brs heater. And as it turns out their rebadged cores come from the same place my father in law’s company sources their lab heaters for spectroscopy equipment and spectrometers.

 

[laverda]

Ouch!!! My husband got hammered pretty good in that post I mentioned about our Queen Trigger deciding he didn’t want the heater in the tank anymore!!! I haven’t had issues yet with the titanium brs heater. And as it turns out their rebadged cores come from the same place my father in law’s company sources their lab heaters for spectroscopy equipment and spectrometers.

That says a lot, if the BRS ones are the same quality as the lab ones. I have looked at them but not used one as I am gun shy based on how many failures I have had.

 

[I’ma tempermental coral]

That says a lot, if the BRS ones are the same quality as the lab ones. I have looked at them but not used one as I am gun shy based on how many failures I have had.

I can only speak of the quality of the one I am currently using and it has stood well. The fact that he recognized the manufacturer made me feel better about my purchase. BUT, just because it comes from the same supplier as his doesn’t mean they are the same quality. That said when I pulled it out of the box and we looked at it, he did say it looked identical to the ones they use only smaller. Lol

 

[Rudefish]

Inkbird here

 

[salty joe]

A whole bunch of people said Ranco. I agree. Ranco. I've been running a single stage for 6 years with no issues. Built like a tank is right!

 

[Xothar]

The two stage unit can be set up 3 different ways

1. Two Stage Heating
2. Two Stage Cooling
3 One Stage Heating and One Stage Cooling

I'm late to this thread...and probably asking a dumb question. But here it goes. I'm debating buying the single stage vs. the two stage Ranco controller. I have two Cobalt heaters in my sump working in tandem - both with their own on-board thermostats. I want to replace them with titanium heaters (having issues with voltage leak with the Cobalts).

If I go the route of the single stage Ranco and put both heaters on a single GFCI spliter it will in essence control both heaters in the same way. One would still function if the other fails.

If I setup the two stage as shown above what is the benefit? Suggestions? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[shred5]

I'm late to this thread...and probably asking a dumb question. But here it goes. I'm debating buying the single stage vs. the two stage Ranco controller. I have two Cobalt heaters in my sump working in tandem - both with their own on-board thermostats. I want to replace them with titanium heaters (having issues with voltage leak with the Cobalts).

If I go the route of the single stage Ranco and put both heaters on a single GFCI spliter it will in essence control both heaters in the same way. One would still function if the other fails.

If I setup the two stage as shown above what is the benefit? Suggestions? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Dual stage is for heating and cooling if you have a chiller or fan.
You can use a plug splitter for two heaters for single stage.
I use these but make sure you do not go over the recommended wattage the controller can handle.

 

[Rjmul]

I run an ink bird with 2 aqueon presets.

BRS preaches about heater failure, why would I spend more than 10 bucks on a heater im just gonna throw out every year?