Little help with Apex pH probe calibration

sithrico

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Hi friend. Sounds a lot like something that happened to me when I first set mine up. Got crazy temp readings. Salinity swings like no other. ORP swings. Then ph stuck at 62. I did some research found a blog talking about the apex probe setups. I can't find the site again but I truly remember the whys it happens. First off the temp. It is tied in with salinity so if the temp is wrong salinity will be way off. Get three thermometers. Looks like you did something like this almost. Take the average of the three temps and then go into the apex temp settings. Hit the probe calibration and then offset the temp to match what the average of the three are. This will calibrate it at the average of the three you have then you will notice it stay on par. Next, you should set up the salinity. Now, what happens the calibration fluid is sometimes bad right from the box. You should pick some up from BRS. I would get like three. One to start one for a month later and one on hand for down the road. Let it sit in the sump for at least 2 hours. This gives the fluid enough time to get to the same temp as your water. Then run the calibration inside your sump. Just be really careful not to spill anything. It's nerve-racking but this truly works. Rinse the probe off in ro/di water and then cut a small corner off the bag and insert the probe in and kind of jiggle it up and down back and forth to get air bubbles out. Then hit the calibration button. Once it is done put in in the rack and let it sit for about 3 hours and then use this site. Salinity Calculator. Enter the sample tmp. use the one the apex says. Then enter what the salt says. Hit calculate and it will give you like a 0.0####### answer. That is what the salinity of the tank is. It doesn't match a refractometer or anything because the apex uses a formula that takes tmp and conductivity. So your apex is truly showing you the conductivity of the water, not the salinity. You have to calculate that to get the salinity. The calculator will help tons when you get the temp set up correctly then your salt swings will stabilize and stay on point. Next the ph and orp. They are supposed to swing throughout the day. This helps tell you what you're doing wrong. Kalk it up or down. See what part of the day you need to add the kalk. Since light and temp affect ph it always changes. You get to control it better by slowing down swings. Then the orp just calculates the oxygen in the water. It raises when the lights are out because the corals calm for the night as well as the fish. This one helps to see how the refug. is working out for you by adding oxygen or if something died because it will get really low due to the ammonia taking oxygen to turn to nitrite. So it's ph and orp are just a cool one to have but something you should never chase. tmp and salt are the most important probes to have to keep things alive. Sorry for the long write up, but this was what helped me get out of the frustration of those probes. Good luck if you got problems just ask. Also, us the BRS youtube apex probe calibration setup videos those help a lot too.
 

Orcus Varuna

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Apex probes like all probes take some time to settle in to the conditions present in a salt water tank. A saltwater aquarium is quite a harsh environment for scientific measuring equipment. I’m on my 3rd apex at this point and all have been the same (apex, apex jr, apex 2016). My advice is to place the new probes in the display and forget about them for a few weeks. What you are looking for is the probe readings to stabilize with no consistent trends either up or down. Once this happens calibrate the probes and you will find they are spot on to your other testing methods.

Further more, I have found conductivity calibration solutions to be 100% useless. The best thing to do is create a seawater solution at 35ppt verified by a good refractometer calibrated with pinpoint or another calibration solution. Then stick the conductivity probe in the stock seawater solution with a temp probe and calibrate the probe. You will find this approach works wonders and calibrates it perfectly. Finally, I recommend placing the probes in the display. My readings are ALWAYS more consistent in the high flow of my display.
 

jml1149

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I agree. The MPR is pretty sleek looking anyway, and I nestle my probes next to my MP40 to sort of hide them. But, and especially for controlling temperature, I figure might as well measure exactly where the measurement matters most.

I understand though that some people think it's an eyesore. The one drawback perhaps is I get algae on the probes occasionally.
 

Gerry1563

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Jml good observation. I recently installed the new Apex and it took a few weeks for the probe readings to stabilize, especially salinity and orp. They talk about this in their start up information on line, if I remember correctly. Hang in there Vincent, patience is golden in this hobby.
 

Orcus Varuna

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I agree. The MPR is pretty sleek looking anyway, and I nestle my probes next to my MP40 to sort of hide them. But, and especially for controlling temperature, I figure might as well measure exactly where the measurement matters most.

I understand though that some people think it's an eyesore. The one drawback perhaps is I get algae on the probes occasionally.


Mine are hidden in plain sight and not too much of an eyesore. No worse then the 4 wavemakers at least lol
019658c7f147a1de5abc731e52314d43.jpg
 

jaxteller007

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Old thread, but how much of the pH probe needs to be in the water? Right now, using the mount a friend printed, there's not much of it in the water. Maybe an inch.... Do I need it to be farther into the water than that?
 

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