Live rock

bobbyg04

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Hey guys I'm new to the hobby and has a view questions in regard to live rock. So I have the 32 gallon biocube and I've heard different rules such as 1lbs of live rock per gallon. So I guess my questions are should I follow that rule and if so do yous have any recommendations for any website that sells live rock for a good price with great service. I think the local fish store may be over priced. I'm looking just for regular live rock because I'm pretty sure I've heard there are basically different grades of live rock. Thanks!
 

helen ann

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The rule is about 1-2lbs per gallon ... but really all preference and the look you are going for with your aquascape!;):)
Welcome to the Biocube Club!!! ;)
IMG_4786 santa.jpg
 

ahiggins

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Ive seen LFS live rock from $7.25/lb-I think thats fair. Ive seen online stuff for $10/lb.
Its all about the type of LR you want. I went with the LFS and then had to get peppermint shrimp to eradicate the aiptasia issue.
There are dry, uncured live, cured live. Scaling as written for the "best quality" and shortness of cycle time.

Also, I think it depends on what you want in your landscape. I put as much rock in as my tank will hold lol in my 25 cube, I have about 32 lbs. but I like the look of it. So it works. If you have other biological filtration areas (ie a sump) you can get away with 10-15 lbs of actual LR. If youre going to run it stock, with no sump, just the stuff in the back of the biocube, I would get at least 25 lbs. You dont really need 1lb/gallon unless you plan on heavily stocking fish (which I also do lol)
 
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bobbyg04

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Ive seen LFS live rock from $7.25/lb-I think thats fair. Ive seen online stuff for $10/lb.
Its all about the type of LR you want. I went with the LFS and then had to get peppermint shrimp to eradicate the aiptasia issue.
There are dry, uncured live, cured live. Scaling as written for the "best quality" and shortness of cycle time.

Also, I think it depends on what you want in your landscape. I put as much rock in as my tank will hold lol in my 25 cube, I have about 32 lbs. but I like the look of it. So it works. If you have other biological filtration areas (ie a sump) you can get away with 10-15 lbs of actual LR. If youre going to run it stock, with no sump, just the stuff in the back of the biocube, I would get at least 25 lbs. You dont really need 1lb/gallon unless you plan on heavily stocking fish (which I also do lol)

Will adding more live rock down the line affect anything in the tank in regards to the water ?
 

ahiggins

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Will adding more live rock down the line affect anything in the tank in regards to the water ?
the live rock houses nitrifying bacteria. The more live rock (if you stock heavily) the better your tank-as an environment-will be able to bread down waste and turn it into nitrates.
A lot of people with little live rock will add bioballs or something to their sump to give that bacteria something to be housed in.
The problem arises when theres TOO many surfaces. Like a bunch of bioballs with live rock-which is why some (including myself) opt out of bioballs-they become nitrate factories. Which is good if you need waste to be broken down but bad when you have nowhere to export the nitrates to (like a skimmer or nitrate reactor). Then you have the problem of 50+ ppm nitrates...
I opt for lots of live rock, a nitrate reactor (that flows into the skimmer) and a skimmer. Thats all the filtration my 25 gallon has. Before I added the reactor, I hit 50 ppm nitrates. took about 4 weeks of the reactor running before it went below 20. That was with weekly water changes.

Now-for your question :)
If you add cured live rock, say...6 months down the line, you will want to make sure that it is kept wet from the time if leaves the LFS tank, to the time it gets into your tank. You will be fine.
Die off occurs when it starts drying out. The longer you have it dry, the more die off. The more die off, the more ammonia thats introduced into your tank. Ive heard horror stories of people re-cycling their tank because of that. As long as you do it the right way, you can add as much or as little as you need-whenever you need it.
 
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bobbyg04

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the live rock houses nitrifying bacteria. The more live rock (if you stock heavily) the better your tank-as an environment-will be able to bread down waste and turn it into nitrates.
A lot of people with little live rock will add bioballs or something to their sump to give that bacteria something to be housed in.
The problem arises when theres TOO many surfaces. Like a bunch of bioballs with live rock-which is why some (including myself) opt out of bioballs-they become nitrate factories. Which is good if you need waste to be broken down but bad when you have nowhere to export the nitrates to (like a skimmer or nitrate reactor). Then you have the problem of 50+ ppm nitrates...
I opt for lots of live rock, a nitrate reactor (that flows into the skimmer) and a skimmer. Thats all the filtration my 25 gallon has. Before I added the reactor, I hit 50 ppm nitrates. took about 4 weeks of the reactor running before it went below 20. That was with weekly water changes.

Now-for your question :)
If you add cured live rock, say...6 months down the line, you will want to make sure that it is kept wet from the time if leaves the LFS tank, to the time it gets into your tank. You will be fine.
Die off occurs when it starts drying out. The longer you have it dry, the more die off. The more die off, the more ammonia thats introduced into your tank. Ive heard horror stories of people re-cycling their tank because of that. As long as you do it the right way, you can add as much or as little as you need-whenever you need it.

Thanks!
 
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bobbyg04

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Real quick one more thing, if I were to use dry rock and I wanted to put it in my fish less aquarium while it cycle would I have to cure it first? If so how would I do that?
 

ahiggins

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Ive never cured dry rock before so Im not sure how that goes or how long it would take.
 

Chefbill

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Dry rock has different grades just like live rock does. Dry rock can mean anything from previously live rock that has been allowed to die and dry to fossilized reef rock that is quarried.
In the case of previously live rock that has been dried , often you will need to cook or cure it to get rid of the organics so they do not decay in your tank and cause nutrient issues. Quarried dry rock usually just needs a quick rinse.
There is also several brands of man-made live and live rock out there. These I have no experience
 

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