mfinn
likes zoanthids
I would also consider adding 120 mm computer fans to me canopy to help with air flow.
Looking for opinions - thinking of switching from LED to T5
- Thread starter Brandon McHenry
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OP
OP
I will most likely open up the hole in the back (currently like an 8x10 rectangle) a little more and look into the computer fans. I’ve used those before with good results. Hopefully it doesn’t run too terribly hot. We run the house around 72 so maybe that will help. I definitely want to preserve the unit and the bulbs as well as keep the water temp down.
OP
OP
Well the fixture is installed. I went with the 3 blue plus and the 3 coral plus. The fixture is currently 6inches above the water with a 10 hr run time. I have to say the quality of the fixture is great and I love the light that it throws. The color temp is really good with this bulb combo and I feel like it will give me some nice color rendition. I have to say I’m a little surprised by all of the areas that had shadows before. I can see which spots were not receiving light on the coral. It’s also surprising how little “true color” the coral had and how much must have been LED fluorescence. I’m really looking forward to seeing what this light does for the color and growth of my acros!
mfinn
likes zoanthids
For all those areas that didn't get light before ( in the shadows), you might want to start off with a shorter light period and work it up to help acclimate those corals. These T5 fixtures can really blast alot of par.
Awesome! I am glad your seeing what a lot of led users don’t get the chance to see. I have got a lot of frags from tanks that look ok in their tank then when I put it under my lights you can see how under lit the coral was and how the color is washed out and pale on the shaded side and sometimes even from the top. I have no doubt you will like the results as long as you transition slowly. I agree that you should start slower than straight to 10 hours though.
OP
OP
I was going to check the PAR this afternoon for the new lights and post the comparison to see people’s opinions on duration. It seems like less hours is going to be the consensus. How long would you recommend? They were coming off of like 12 hours of light with the LED and 10 with my t5 retrofit.
I am also excited to see why changes occur. I am going to keep a close eye on my alk with the assumption that the corals will begin to grow faster.
mfinn
likes zoanthids
As just a guess maybe 10%-15% less time?
You need to maintain somewhat of a similar light period so the other corals don't suffer, but temper that with protecting the other areas.
OP
OP
So maybe down to 9? Does any of this depend on the PAR?
It’s the intensity of the light that matters. Using egg rate over the top is a good idea for a few days, that’s what have done in the past.
OP
OP
So here are the new PAR numbers. I must say that the PAR is much more evenly distributed throughout the tank with far less impact from shadowing. I also noticed that the PAR readings didn’t jump around nearly as much with the T5s (+ or - 30) as they did with the LEDs (+ or - 150ish). So I feel like the corals are probably getting more consistent PAR than before as well. So let me know your thoughts on these readings and what I should do in terms of acclimation time. Thanks for all of the advice!So I managed to borrow an Apogee MQ-510 from a colleague to check my PAR. With the Radion XR15 at 100% 14k spectrum plus 4 T5s (3 blue plus and 1 aqua blue special) on a WavePoint retrofit these were the numbers I got. What do you guys think and do you think that the ATI Sunpower would still provide me an advantage?
mfinn
likes zoanthids
I would definitely do some light acclimation.
It was suggested to add egg crate, but that's only part of it. Egg crate doesn't really block light. It's the couple layers of window screen you put on top of the egg crate that helps cut down on the amount of light getting through. Egg crate just supports it.
Put a couple layers of window screen top and after 5 days or so remove a layer and then another 5 days or so do the same.
It was suggested to add egg crate, but that's only part of it. Egg crate doesn't really block light. It's the couple layers of window screen you put on top of the egg crate that helps cut down on the amount of light getting through. Egg crate just supports it.
Put a couple layers of window screen top and after 5 days or so remove a layer and then another 5 days or so do the same.
OP
OP
Can reducing duration achieve the same affect? With the way the canopy is I have no way of resting eggcrate or screen on anything to block the light.
mfinn
likes zoanthids
In the past when joining threads that were discussing light acclimation I saw quite a few say, just reduce the light period and slowly bring it back up. But IMO, the tank is still going to be hit with the higher light intensity, even if it's for a shorter time period. I guess that would be the debate.
On a 6 bulb T5 fixture ( ATI?), run the 2 bulbs for the entire planned light period.
Then start out the other 4 bulbs at just a few hours and work it up a little each day.
OP
OP
I have seen other threads debating exactly what you are referencing. You make a good point. The fixture is an ATI so it has that ability to do different timers. I hadn’t planned on doing dawn/dusk so I guess I’ll have to go get a second one! ;Facepalm
mfinn
likes zoanthids
I use 2 separate times for my ATI fixture. You need one dual outlet timer for the 2 bulb side, and the fan.
One other for the 4 bulb side.
Big E
Valuable Member
7-8 hours(all bubls on) is plenty of duration full time. I would cut down on the time to max 5-6 hours for now.
I wouldn't bother with staggering them unless you want it for the fish to adjust in the morning. If the tank is in an area of ambient light you really don't need it.
10 hours is way too much......it won't benefit in extra growth or color. In fact it can cause light inhibition and slow growth in some corals.
Save yourself some electricity and bulb wear.
I wouldn't bother with staggering them unless you want it for the fish to adjust in the morning. If the tank is in an area of ambient light you really don't need it.
10 hours is way too much......it won't benefit in extra growth or color. In fact it can cause light inhibition and slow growth in some corals.
Save yourself some electricity and bulb wear.
OP
OP
That may be the way to go even if I don’t do dawn/dusk but I’ll have option at least.
At what point do you think the cutoff is for photoinhibition? I thought 10 would be a good point since I was coming off of around 12 with the LEDs. Do you ever run different time periods on the weekends? For me I like to try to see the tank as much as possible which is late in the day during the week but a little earlier on weekends.
I run my halides for 9 or 10 hours. I have no idea if the corals need this much, but it also does not appear to hurt anything.
Riddle says to use DLI, or Direct Light Index? where more hours at less intensity is the same as fewer at more... within reason... so 8 hours at 400 is the same as 10 at 320.
Riddle says to use DLI, or Direct Light Index? where more hours at less intensity is the same as fewer at more... within reason... so 8 hours at 400 is the same as 10 at 320.
OP
OP
Have you measure PAR on your tank before? Or do you just know that what you have is sufficient? I also was under the impression that you can increase or decrease duration based on intensity to achieve a certain effect. I actually just had a conversation with a colleague about this. He runs halides over a multi-thousand gallon Caribbean reef that he maintains and he changes duration to match the sun, going from around 10 hours in the winter to 14 hours in the summer.
Big E
Valuable Member
I run the same time period and on/off times every day. I don't know what the actual duration of inhibition occurs and it's probably different for each acro.........par is a factor as well. I just know extra hours doesn't give me a benefit in growth or color.
You can watch your corals for signs.....like polyp extension on acros........ LPS won't be a inflated as they are trying to take in less light.
I wouldn't change durations over the weekend........consistency is important. I notice my acros start to show more polyp extension and the fish start to bed down about 10-15 minutes before lights go off.........they have an innter clock.
In earlier years I used to do 10 hours but over time I found there was no benefit.
You can watch your corals for signs.....like polyp extension on acros........ LPS won't be a inflated as they are trying to take in less light.
I wouldn't change durations over the weekend........consistency is important. I notice my acros start to show more polyp extension and the fish start to bed down about 10-15 minutes before lights go off.........they have an innter clock.
In earlier years I used to do 10 hours but over time I found there was no benefit.
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