losing the battle to red slime HELP!

[Hallowhead]

Does not sound like cyano if ChemiClean did not kill it. I would be hesitant to try anything.
You can't get rid of cyano it is ubiquitous. You have to change the balance so it does not create mats that look bad.
I struggled with cyano for a long time. I installed a UV without success. I used ChemoClean which turned into a slow running disaster in my case. In the end the cyano came back. I tried MicroBacterClean and it worked for a few weeks.
I saw a video by @Coral Euphoria and Abe simply removed mechanical filtration. I removed mechanical filtration. The cyano is now in check.

Mechanical filtration such as ?

I think it can 100% be eradicated but you have to solve the problem causing it as mentioned above

 

[brandon429]

this thread is 38 pages of fixes

your tank would be easy to fix

the cause is your detritus loading, either in rocks or sand.

post pics of your tank, a 34 would be easy to rip clean, just like all these:

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

-how many times did nitrate or phosphate matter there, or get a reading?

-how many times did we add slime remover or chemi clean, for all those fixed tanks

-the cause of matted invasion is sitting there and allowing it. that's not being mean, we're just showing the opposite situation above.

prediction before seeing pics: if we reached in and grabbed sand and dropped it, a massive cloud would result of the cause + invasion all mixed together.

same for rocks, if we take any rock from the tank and twist-swish it midwater, a clouding comes off.

we'd fix all that in one pass. *if you have a 1% invasion that still comes back, well it'll be coming back in a nice sharp new looking tank lol. doesnt happen very often though, per above.

of course if the reef is massive we can't do surgery on it lol and all those things matter above. but if the reef is accessible, we cheat all the waiting and hammer out cleaned tanks for years.

 

[Hallowhead]

this thread is 38 pages of fixes

your tank would be easy to fix

the cause is your detritus loading, either in rocks or sand.

post pics of your tank, a 34 would be easy to rip clean, just like all these:

Can you link the thread ?

 

[brandon429]

I edited it back in above.

the true summary of the pages is this:

drain out water catch and hold fish and frags in a bucket or something

take all the rocks out and rinse them/twisting swish in buckets of drawn off tank water, or clean saltwater but jet them roughly and clean. saltwater only for rocks, no chems just rough swishing rinse off.

sand gets the fun: tap rinse for as long as it takes to be this clean below. final rinse is ro for sand

Then put back all new water, add rocks back into pristine tank, add frags and fish and match temps and salinity only.

*lower your light levels in the cleaned tank for a week/ramp back up.

done.

we fix about 98% of entrants per the link above. this preps your tank against far worse invasions than some cyano, GHA for example feeds on this clouding from rocks and sand, we're ensuring the future with clean reefs in my opinion.

 

[Hallowhead]

I edited it back in.

the true summary of the pages is this:

drain out water catch and hold fish and frags in a bucket or something

take all the rocks out and rinse them/twisting swish in buckets of drawn off tank water, or clean saltwater but jet them roughly and clean. saltwater only for rocks, no chems just rough swishing rinse off.

sand gets the fun: tap rinse for as long as it takes to be this clean below.

Then put back all new water, add rocks back into pristine tank, add frags and fish and match temps and salinity only.

*lower your light levels in the cleaned tank for a week/ramp back up.

done.

You say done like it's nothing - but could be a last ditch effort.

 

[brandon429]

no it should be first ditch. the other stuff you were trying is last, because they leave the cause in place.



only that removes the cause. be sure and check the last five pages of the thread, its no last ditch at all its the primary go to, run it even before the tank is wrecked. preventative is awesome.

we cause our own reef invasions because we select and promote methods that keep us invaded, that's opposite above.

 

[Tamberav]

this thread is 38 pages of fixes

your tank would be easy to fix

the cause is your detritus loading, either in rocks or sand.

post pics of your tank, a 34 would be easy to rip clean, just like all these:

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

-how many times did nitrate or phosphate matter there, or get a reading?

-how many times did we add slime remover or chemi clean, for all those fixed tanks

-the cause of matted invasion is sitting there and allowing it. that's not being mean, we're just showing the opposite situation above.

prediction before seeing pics: if we reached in and grabbed sand and dropped it, a massive cloud would result of the cause + invasion all mixed together.

same for rocks, if we take any rock from the tank and twist-swish it midwater, a clouding comes off.

we'd fix all that in one pass. *if you have a 1% invasion that still comes back, well it'll be coming back in a nice sharp new looking tank lol. doesnt happen very often though, per above.

of course if the reef is massive we can't do surgery on it lol and all those things matter above. but if the reef is accessible, we cheat all the waiting and hammer out cleaned tanks for years.

He doesn't have sand...he said BB frag tank with marine pure.

Not sure if he has rock in his frag tank? @Hallowhead ?

 

[Hallowhead]

He doesn't have sand...he said BB frag tank with marine pure.

Not sure if he has rock in his frag tank?

No rock in sump maybe five pounds in display

 

[brandon429]

nice. swish the rocks clean, change out the water thats much less work.

could be dinos too, can we see pics in white light

 

[Hallowhead]

nice. swish the rocks clean, change out the water thats much less work.

could be dinos too, can we see pics in white light

I'll get pics when I'm home

 

[AcanthurusRex]

I am not going to dispute @brandon429. If your tank fits the criteria for a rip clean then that may be the best action.
The tank in the video I referenced was a newly setup bare bottomed frag tank. The idea of removing mechanical filtration is that it allowed the skimmer to remove the cyano bacteria from the water column. The logic Abe used is that the filter socks were essentially providing a growth media.

 

[SPS2020]

Here's a Tidal Gardens video (have not watched it):


And BRS:

 

[brandon429]

I like all these options for handling invasions. sometimes there's neat ordering too, such as manually clean it all/new water make it look sharp, and then run one of the dosers or additives or param adjusts to try and stop growback. that's a handy changeup because we're medicating from the cleanest condition possible, amplifies the effects of the meds when there's less target, and target housing in my opinion.

the really large tanks have no choice but to leave in the physical accumulations and try the dosing, but nanos can cheat just a little and its handy to start clean.

Mainly I like the no-harm nature of rip cleaning. it cannot harm, so if it fails then you get growback on a clean system. there are for sure chemi-clean problem threads, wrong moves there have killed tanks but if u follow directions its not too risky.

 

[Hallowhead]

I like all these options for handling invasions. sometimes there's neat ordering too, such as manually clean it all/new water make it look sharp, and then run one of the dosers or additives or param adjusts to try and stop growback. that's a handy changeup because we're medicating from the cleanest condition possible, amplifies the effects of the meds when there's less target, and target housing in my opinion.

the really large tanks have no choice but to leave in the physical accumulations and try the dosing, but nanos can cheat just a little and its handy to start clean.

Mainly I like the no-harm nature of rip cleaning. it cannot harm, so if it fails then you get growback on a clean system. there are for sure chemi-clean problem threads, wrong moves there have killed tanks but if u follow directions its not too risky.

I just don't see how this works ? I need to read more but it's leached to my rocks.. I can simply remove my 3 rocks now and scrub them independently clean I'm a seperate bucket of salt water and have the same effect since it's bare bottom. My frags and racks have some covering as well. But I just don't see how ripping it all down and rebuilding is helpful other than maybe losing my cycle and losing it all

 

[brandon429]

we showed that deep cleaning as often as you like cannot undo a cycle. the very first link is a 120 gallon system rip cleaned five times over bc that man was not playing around lol. he demanded a win, and took it, so its first example.

you can check for the need before you begin: pick up a rock in the tank as it sits and twist it harsh mid water, see how much comes off

cleaning out of the tank is different, it exports waste vs cycles it back through which is cleaning in tank. in a system without sand and not a lot of detritus in the rocks, tbd, dosing meds isn't so bad because the waste stores are already low.

there is a pattern though in the pages of physical cleaning working, even though it seems like it shouldn't be.

 

[Hallowhead]

Find some photos attached.. coral looks the best today it has in a while.

The last is media after I blast corals and media cup catches

 

[brandon429]

Wow that’s already clean sys

very rare, nice one. if it was mine I actually wouldn’t takedown it’s already clean, I would hand spot siphon remove every patch then install a powerful pond sterilizer off amazon in the sump somehow. They’re pretty cheap and usually hammer out light invasions like that, run as needed turn off when not needed

 

[Hallowhead]

Wow that’s already clean sys

very rare, nice one. if it was mine I actually wouldn’t takedown it’s already clean, I would hand spot siphon remove every patch then install a powerful pond sterilizer off amazon in the sump somehow. They’re pretty cheap and usually hammer out light invasions like that, run as needed turn off when not needed

I think I may look for a good UV sterilizer and be done.

It's clean... but enough to be a nuisance.

 

[brandon429]

in that system with very low catchpoints, low to no storage probably any classic cyano method would work but imo uv is the most helpful across future headaches such as dinos prevention and future cyano


uv helps with hair algae as well even though I know thats benthic/anchored it might be helping kill fragmentation issues, it specifically reduced stranded hair algae in my old 75 gallon I had years ago

 

[Hallowhead]

in that system with very low catchpoints, low to no storage probably any classic cyano method would work but imo uv is the most helpful across future headaches such as dinos prevention and future cyano


uv helps with hair algae as well even though I know thats benthic/anchored it might be helping kill fragmentation issues, it specifically reduced stranded hair algae in my old 75 gallon I had years ago

I told you though - I have tried chemi clean.. twice... no luck.