Modify eschopps pf-300 into herbie?

[Cerberusfish]

So I can get a deal on a hydor return pump that basically gets me an eschopps pf-300 for free, which would work well for the tank I'm building I think. Problem is I dont want a HOB overflow, but could I cut out the baffle inside, add another hole for a bulkhead, then drill through the black box and the drain and run it just like a Herbie overflow? Or even just a durso? That way I get an inexpensive and decently well made overflow box, and it's a cool project? Is there any problems anyone can think of?

 

[Ron Reefman]

I, for one, don't quite understand what you are looking to do here.

is it that you want to drill through the back of the overflow, then through the glass of your tank, and then the front of the clear box?

 

[Cerberusfish]

I, for one, don't quite understand what you are looking to do here.

is it that you want to drill through the back of the overflow, then through the glass of your tank, and then the front of the clear box?

Yes that's the plan. My LFS actually had the same thing to say hahaha. Apparently no one has really done this before. I've only seen people do it on the pf-1000

 

[Ron Reefman]

I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. But I'd consider gaskets between the plastic boxes up to the glass of the tank on both sides.

 

[Cerberusfish]

That's the plan. I know I'm probably going overkill on asking for help, it's just this is the first time om doing this AND it's all DIY so I want to make sure theres nothing I'm forgetting.

 

[Tono]

Should be doable. You'll need to trim the "lip" on the exterior (clear) box so it can be flush mounted. As mentioned by Ron, you'll want to sandwich the glass between bulkhead gaskets. I would look for a low profile bulkhead (or cut one down) to make sure you can slide it into the interior box.

 

[Pistondog]

Make sure there's enough clearance for the fittings with gaskets down inside the box, or you might have to shave down a fitting.

 

[Cerberusfish]

Should be doable. You'll need to trim the "lip" on the exterior (clear) box so it can be flush mounted. As mentioned by Ron, you'll want to sandwich the glass between bulkhead gaskets. I would look for a low profile bulkhead (or cut one down) to make sure you can slide it into the interior box.

I've already got to order a hole saw online so I'll make sure to order an extra gasket along with the bulkheads I'm getting.

 

[Cerberusfish]

So the bulk heads in the actual cellar box are both going to he 1 inch. My return line bulkheads are going to be 3/4 inch. Could I just have the bulk head trough the glass into the clear box be 3/4 inch? Or would that cause any issues with flow? It would save me some money not having to buy 2 hole saws.

 

[Tono]

So the bulk heads in the actual cellar box are both going to he 1 inch. My return line bulkheads are going to be 3/4 inch. Could I just have the bulk head trough the glass into the clear box be 3/4 inch? Or would that cause any issues with flow? It would save me some money not having to buy 2 hole saws.

Pretty sure it would limit the drainage rate and hence your return flow rate but it should be safe as long as you're ok with that- depends on your tank size too.

I have an unused 1.5" diamond hole saw and a 1.5" bulk head you can have (no gasket as I used it for the eshopps over flow I bought which did not have a second gasket).

 

[Cerberusfish]

Pretty sure it would limit the drainage rate and hence your return flow rate but it should be safe as long as you're ok with that- depends on your tank size too.

I have an unused 1.5" diamond hole saw and a 1.5" bulk head you can have (no gasket as I used it for the eshopps over flow I bought which did not have a second gasket).

It's actually only a 14 gallon tank lol. I just REALLY want something cool, plus its DIY experience.

 

[Tono]

Yea then 3/4 should be fine for that tank.

 

[Cerberusfish]

Ok. I was concerned it would cause some sort of flow imbalance that might make it noisy or inefficient but if that's not the case it saves me about $15-$20.

 

[Ron Reefman]

If you do have any issues with flow or noise, you can deal with them by limiting the size of the drain line inlets inside the back box. By that I mean, if you have a 1" drain out of the bottom of the clear tank on the back, you could fit a 1" to 3/4" reducer at the top of the drain. That way it won't drain off water faster than it gets into the back box through the bulkhead through the back of the tank.

 

[Cerberusfish]

If you do have any issues with flow or noise, you can deal with them by limiting the size of the drain line inlets inside the back box. By that I mean, if you have a 1" drain out of the bottom of the clear tank on the back, you could fit a 1" to 3/4" reducer at the top of the drain. That way it won't drain off water faster than it gets into the back box through the bulkhead through the back of the tank.

Oh ok. Yeah that could work well for me. Thanks for the suggestion!