Most accurate measurements of Phosphate, Nitrate, etc.

[TinyChocobo]

I was looking at the Hanna checkers because looking at a colored strip and trying to determine where it falls on the color scale is ... not so easy.

I don't mind spending a bit of $$$ for accurate testing that is repeatable and easy to read. I'm trying to remove some of the 'human error' from it.

I'm hoping to get an Apex system and will be looking at Trident for Alk/Cal/Mag but I would like to keep an eye on Nitrate, Phosphate and anything else that, if left unchecked, could cause major problems in a hurry.

 

[Ashish Patel]

I use Hanna ALK checker; dont think i'd test as frequently without it. Easy to see daily swings with this method and fine tune your dosing. Salifert Nitrate is another one I really like because its very easy to see if you have nitrates are low range as well. Hanna ULR phosphate is another one which has helped me. I've used this one to fine tune my skimmer and feeding; amazing to see how much phosphates fluctuates on a daily basis. As long as its around detectable and up not over 0.08 I am good. I use redsea to test MG and CA and it works fine but id probably go back to use salifert MG and CA in the future.

 

[TinyChocobo]

I have the full Salifert Marine kit showing up sometime today - I was using .... API before.

The Hanna checkers look neat.

 

[Ashish Patel]

I have the full Salifert Marine kit showing up sometime today - I was using .... API before.

The Hanna checkers look neat.

I used API for decades its nice for softies, LPS and fish and someone starting with testing. I also have Salifert Alk and Redsea ALK for backup.

I'll give you an example why I love the hanna. Last week I added T5 lighting to my radions led and ALk was being consumed much faster in 3 days I tested.. Dropped from 8.3DKH to 8.1DKH in 3 days. I adjusted my doser +5ML , increase photoperiod slightly, and tested each day for 3 days. however, this time it was not stabilizing at 8.1DkH it went up .1 each day until it reached 8.4DKH so I now have reduced 2part to -4ML. Simple things like this are good to fine tune not only your 2part but your lighting and nutrient levels. Something I was never able to do on a daily basis before using hanna. The other test kits for ALK are is ood when your trying to keep you alk between a wide range say 8-9DKH (which works for LPS, softies), However, my ALK has stayed within 8.1-8.4DKH for 4 months straight and this was not possible prior to using.
Hanna ULR phosphates is another one that can applie same way but other phosphate kits would work aslong as theres a clear line between 0 Phosphates and detectable phosphates. I went with salifert nitrate since clear is clear and if it has a shade of pink I know I have some nitrates. If you don't mind spending the money go for the PO ULR its great product to fine tune your nutrient export

 

[TinyChocobo]

I ordered the Hanna ALK but I went with PPM as I can convert PPM to DKH with much more accuracy than what the DKH meter can show. I also did the low range nitrate and phosphorus - they'll either work great or not I figure worth a shot.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The Hanna ULR phosphorus 736 is a very good choice, the nitrate checker won’t work in seawater. The Hanna 613 phosphate is ok, but not as good as the ulr

 

[Phillyd1990]

I love hanna dkh checker. I use it every day because it so easy and accurate. It really helped me to figure out my dosing and keep it consistent right on the mark. The ulr for me has been pretty inconsistent. Ive never had it read the same twice and the difference is usually as much as a couple numbers. This is over multiple boxes of reagent. I still use it as its much better than reading colors though

 

[JimmyV]

The Hanna alk tester works really good for me being slightly color blind I have a hard time with the standard color test kits. My hanna calcium tester broke so a new one is going to be order soon. I test phos and nitrate with api and mag with salifert. which works well for me sometimes with a little help from my wife's eyes.

 

[Swoody]

I use Hanna & Salifert both for Alk and Cal and find them to often read exactly the same. For Nitrate I find the Nyos to be the easiest for me after using Salifert and api...

 

[TinyChocobo]

The Hanna ULR phosphorus 736 is a very good choice, the nitrate checker won’t work in seawater. The Hanna 613 phosphate is ok, but not as good as the ulr

Darn didn’t know that about nitrate. Good thing I have several fresh tanks.

 

[Scorpius]

The hannah ulr checker can be a pita to do correctly. Between getting the outside of the curvette perfectly clean and getting rid of micro bubbles from mixing the curvette and not to mention the stupid 3min shutoff I have a love/hate relationship with that green egg. lol

 

[Ashish Patel]

The hannah ulr checker can be a pita to do correctly. Between getting the outside of the curvette perfectly clean and getting rid of micro bubbles from mixing the curvette and not to mention the stupid 3min shutoff I have a love/hate relationship with that green egg. lol

Yeah it definitely takes some trial and error. Now before i do any test first I have the glass curvette stored with fresh water to prevent inside watermarks, rinse the outside under the sink, clean the watermarks, add saltwater into the glass, rinse and replace to 10ML line, clean the glass, open up a packet of reagant and carefully put in the curvette, shake for about 2 minutes or when stop watch is at 2:55 and add the checker for the 3min countdown. It took me going through 25packs before just doing these steps and I trust my results much more.

 

[jimbau]

The Hanna ULR phosphorus 736 is a very good choice, the nitrate checker won’t work in seawater. The Hanna 613 phosphate is ok, but not as good as the ulr

+1 on the nitrate checker not working with saltwater. I wish haha would sell one for salt water, I would buy it in a heart beat.

 

[Rick Mathew]

I use the Hanna Phosphorous Checker HI 736 ULR for both Phosphate and Low level Nitrate (0-2ppm)...Here is an explanation of how I use it for Nitrate

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/u...st-for-low-levels-of-no3.350062/#post-4354565

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/u...st-for-low-levels-of-no3.350062/#post-4418269

I have been using this for Nitrate for several months now and it appears to work well...takes away the need to interpret between color


Rick

 

[HolisticBear]

The hannah ulr checker can be a pita to do correctly. Between getting the outside of the curvette perfectly clean and getting rid of micro bubbles from mixing the curvette and not to mention the stupid 3min shutoff I have a love/hate relationship with that green egg. lol

Whenever I notice annoying bubbles, a H202 bath afterwards seems to ensure fewer to no bubbles on the next test.

 

[HolisticBear]

Yeah it definitely takes some trial and error. Now before i do any test first I have the glass curvette stored with fresh water to prevent inside watermarks, rinse the outside under the sink, clean the watermarks, add saltwater into the glass, rinse and replace to 10ML line, clean the glass, open up a packet of reagant and carefully put in the curvette, shake for about 2 minutes or when stop watch is at 2:55 and add the checker for the 3min countdown. It took me going through 25packs before just doing these steps and I trust my results much more.

I open the packet and dump it on a clean piece of wax paper prior to starting the test. This way it's an easy pour and I don't feel the pressure of rushing

 

[Ashish Patel]

I open the packet and dump it on a clean piece of wax paper prior to starting the test. This way it's an easy pour and I don't feel the pressure of rushing

Good idea!.. I thing there is little room for error since it takes almost a 1 min to get the packet in the glass and 2 minutes to mix. I always take up to 3 minutes regardless but just keep the packet open and ready to pour. Over time i've gotten pretty good at it and found even if some powder gets on the curvette glass or table, the results will not be signifcant to make a difference.