Most efficient safest way to keep phosphates in check?

[fishnugget1]

I agree. I could do them more frequently however, I heard that when you have cyano, a water change just makes it worse because of all the new nutrients you are putting in the tank.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I used to use Phosguard and then read that it leaches aluminum. Is this true? Instead I use nothing but treat tank weekly with Phosphate E. My Phosphates hoover at .05-.06. I am constantly dealing with cyno outbreaks. Could Phosphate E cause this? Used chemiclean in past but still comes back. Usually on lower rocks and sand. Thinking of using Dr. Tim's method.

Any ideas and help would be appreciated. Could 7 mo old T-5's cause this?

There are many safe and effective ways to reduce phosphate. i used many at once (GFO, macroalgae, organic carbonate dosing, skimming, and GAC).

"efficiency" doesn't really have a useful meaning in this context, at least without further definition. Cost efficiency? Chemical molar efficiency? etc.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I agree. I could do them more frequently however, I heard that when you have cyano, a water change just makes it worse because of all the new nutrients you are putting in the tank.

Water changes are often not a good way to reduce problematic phosphate (unlike nitrate) because even a 100% change will not drop phosphate to zero due to the large fraction typically bound to rock and sand that then comes back off in response to the lowered values.

 

[Dom]

I agree. I could do them more frequently however, I heard that when you have cyano, a water change just makes it worse because of all the new nutrients you are putting in the tank.

This thread has gone off the rails.

Your OP was about elevated P04 and now has become about Cyanobacteria.

Which are you dealing with?

If you have Cyanobacteria, more flow in the effected area and temporarily reducing light intensity is a goos place to start. It helped for me.

I purchased Chemiclean for my Cyanobacteria, but never used it. I understand that Chemiclean works very well, but I also understand that it will reduce oxygen levels in your water and that a large water change is recommended after treatment.

 

[Dom]

Water changes are often not a good way to reduce problematic phosphate (unlike nitrate) because even a 100% change will not drop phosphate to zero due to the large fraction typically bound to rock and sand that then comes back off in response to the lowered values.

I did not know this.

 

[Dom]

There are many safe and effective ways to reduce phosphate. i used many at once (GFO, macroalgae, organic carbonate dosing, skimming, and GAC).

"efficiency" doesn't really have a useful meaning in this context, at least without further definition. Cost efficiency? Chemical molar efficiency? etc.

In this case, I took "efficiency" to mean the speed at which the problem can be corrected.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

In this case, I took "efficiency" to mean the speed at which the problem can be corrected.

OK, but speed is not something to be optimized when reducing phosphate. Too fast is not necessarily desirable.

 

[Dom]

OK, but speed is not something to be optimized when reducing phosphate. Too fast is not necessarily desirable.

Agreed. I've always preached patience in this hobby. I think speed (instant gratification) is the reason so many reefers are not successful.

 

[fishnugget1]

My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of

 

[Dom]

My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of

I was mislead by the title "Keeping phosphates in check".

Your OP does mention Cyano. My mistake.

 

[rusgum]

My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of

Your thread about cyano is different. .

Having continual issues with Cyno outbreaks​

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of

Was it?

The first few sentences and the title were about how to lower phosphate.

That's what I've been spending time trying to help with.

 

[fishnugget1]

Cyno is my issue