I agree. I could do them more frequently however, I heard that when you have cyano, a water change just makes it worse because of all the new nutrients you are putting in the tank.
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I used to use Phosguard and then read that it leaches aluminum. Is this true? Instead I use nothing but treat tank weekly with Phosphate E. My Phosphates hoover at .05-.06. I am constantly dealing with cyno outbreaks. Could Phosphate E cause this? Used chemiclean in past but still comes back. Usually on lower rocks and sand. Thinking of using Dr. Tim's method.
Any ideas and help would be appreciated. Could 7 mo old T-5's cause this?
I agree. I could do them more frequently however, I heard that when you have cyano, a water change just makes it worse because of all the new nutrients you are putting in the tank.
I agree. I could do them more frequently however, I heard that when you have cyano, a water change just makes it worse because of all the new nutrients you are putting in the tank.
Water changes are often not a good way to reduce problematic phosphate (unlike nitrate) because even a 100% change will not drop phosphate to zero due to the large fraction typically bound to rock and sand that then comes back off in response to the lowered values.
There are many safe and effective ways to reduce phosphate. i used many at once (GFO, macroalgae, organic carbonate dosing, skimming, and GAC).
"efficiency" doesn't really have a useful meaning in this context, at least without further definition. Cost efficiency? Chemical molar efficiency? etc.
In this case, I took "efficiency" to mean the speed at which the problem can be corrected.
OK, but speed is not something to be optimized when reducing phosphate. Too fast is not necessarily desirable.
I was mislead by the title "Keeping phosphates in check".My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of
Your thread about cyano is different. .My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of
My thread has always been about cyano & how to get rid of