Mr. Z's EXT 50

Mr.Z

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6 months after setting up my first reef tank (build thread here), I'm upgrading from 10 gallons to 50 gallons! Planning to repurpose the "old" tank as a frag tank / coral and invert QT, so I'll still put all of the equipment to good use.

I was happy with the quality of my Innovative Marine Nuvo 10 and especially it's aluminum APS stand, so for my upgrade I decided to go with the Innovative Marine 50 gallon EXT.

Here's current list of equipment:
  • Tank/Stand: Innovative Marine Nuvo EXT 50 Gallon Lagoon with APS stand
  • Pump: Sicce SDC 6.0
  • Sump: Trigger Systems Triton 26
  • Powerhead: Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6040
  • Lighting: Kessil A360X
  • Lid: DD Jump Guard
More in-depth thoughts on chosen equipment:

Tank/Stand: Innovative Marine Nuvo EXT 50 Gallon Lagoon with APS stand
I spent a while searching for different options in the ~50 gallon range. I considered other mainstream options, such as the Red Sea 200XL, as well as newer options, such as the Mode Infinity 50G. I also considered going the custom route, but was ultimately turned off by the relatively high price, long lead times, and the fact that it seemed hard to fine a custom clean looking stand that didn't just have a plain wood finish (which wouldn't work well with our living space). I was close to going with the Red Sea 200XL, but didn't love the center overflow protruding into the display. I had to write off Mode Aquariums since they seemed to have a history of mediocre service compounded with the fact that they were unresponsive to questions on this forum.

I appreciate that the EXT 50 has the external overflow which leads to a totally clean background and optimizes the dimensions of the tank. I think I'll also enjoy having the shallow dimensions and top-down view of the lagoon style. Once I pulled the trigger on the tank, I started researching how to plumb and was initially overwhelmed. Ultimately, my fiancee and I were able to plumb the tank with few issues. Ended up cutting the emergency drain sliiightly too short, so I had to extend the pipe with a slipXslip coupling which you can see in the pictures below.

Initial plumbing with the emergency drain slightly too short to sit flush in sump:
IMG-2207 (1).JPG


FIXED -- emergency drain extended half an inch with a slipXslip coupling
IMG-2214.JPG

Sump shot
IMG-2215.JPG


Pump: Sicce SDC 6.0
I was looking for a quality DC pump, so I became interested in this Sicce since it's not made in China and comes with a 5-year (!) warranty. The wi-fi functionality is a bonus, but not something that I thought I needed. Since I am not planning on getting a controller, it's nice it can send alerts if it loses power or the temperature swings too far in one direction (I think). It seems the pump provides a lot more flow than I need, so I've turned it down to ~30% and it's almost totally silent. I'm currently experiencing an issue where if I turn off the pump, water siphons from the tank to the sump (obviously), and then when I go to turn it back on, I can't get the water to flow again unless I take the pump apart. Sometimes it'll restart if I knock it slightly, but usually I need to at least unscrew the intake guard and push in the impeller. After some research, it sounds like this is not too uncommon of an issue with DC pumps, but not something I want to tolerate. Sicce has been very responsive so far and I'll update on this issue in the future and how they resolve it.

Sump: Trigger Systems Triton 26
As I'm sure many reefers do, I went back-and-forth on whether or not it is worth spending hundreds of dollars on a plastic box that sits out of view 95% of the time. I ended up reasoning that I'm better off just getting exactly what I want now, rather than spending more to upgrade in the future. Also, since this is in the center of our living space, I wanted to make sure every bit of it looked nice and tidy.

I liked that the Triton 26 has a big space for a refugium and am going to try to run a refugium only, with no skimmer. Also hoping to get a mandarin goby and need plenty of pods. Since I'm cutting it close with a 50 gallon display, I wanted to make sure I maximized the refugium space for copepods. It's nice that the Triton 26 also has two ports for drains rather than the Trigger Sapphire 26 which only has one drain input. Was particularly happy to support a made in USA product as well.

Powerhead: Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6040
My initial plan was to just pay up to get an Ecotech MP40 since I wanted the clean look in the display with no wires, but I realized this pump didn't really work for my tank and aquascape. I wanted to only mount the powerhead on the back wall (leaving the side glass clean), and the fact that the MP40 is non-directional was a deal-breaker. I don't mind spending the money, but only if it delivers on all my needs.

Since I'm sticking with softies and LPS I didn't need too much more flow besides my return pump (I think) and I realized the Tunze 6040 I had from my existing 10 gallon would work well. This Tunze is controllable and able to aim in any direction. It's now mounted on the right of the back wall behind my main rock structure and blows from right to left which complements the return pump which blows back to front. It's nearly silent and totally hidden from view from most angles.

Lighting: Kessil A360X
I wanted to stick with LED and liked the clean look a single pendant would provide over the tank. Also had an interest in the Kessil "shimmer" for this lagoon style tank. I think this will be just enough lighting for my needs, but we'll see how that goes.

Pricing on the light is high, which makes the expensive accessories particularly aggravating. $100 for a basic controller, $80 for a mounting arm, $55 for an extension mount!! The only thing more ridiculous than these prices is the guy that forks over for them... Hopefully that shimmer is worth it!

For refugium lighting, I'm considering the Tunze EcoChic, but still researching.

Lid: DD Jump Guard
I looked at custom options for lids, but they're pretty darn expensive, have long lead times, and seem way too visually obtrusive. Although the custom lids are "clear", the acrylic seems to reflect a lot of light and appear very distracting. The DD Jump Guard is quite affordable and I liked the black mesh which is much less noticeable than the white/clear mesh on my 10 gallon.

I got a hacksaw with fine teeth (32 TPI) and a miter box to make sure my cuts were clean. The lid sits flush with the top of the tank and has a very thin lip so that the tank is totally sealed. I think this was a great purchase and looks much better than a custom acrylic lid would. My only concern is figuring out how to mount the light bracket on the rim with this lid in place. One option is to notch out the lid, but I think that'll detract from the clean look and might compromise the structural integrity of the frame. Going to try to mount the light behind the tank to an extended mount that connects to the stand.



More pictures of the tank to come once I add existing livestock from the 10 gallon later this week.
 

dbowman5

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one thing, my eyesight sux so i ask if you have supported the plumbing behind the tank. even tho the runs are short the weight of the pvc and contents will stress the connections to the overflow if they are not clamped to the stand. the system looks sweet!
 
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Mr.Z

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one thing, my eyesight sux so i ask if you have supported the plumbing behind the tank. even tho the runs are short the weight of the pvc and contents will stress the connections to the overflow if they are not clamped to the stand. the system looks sweet!

Thank you for the advice. I did not support the plumbing with clamps. It's just supported at the top where it connects to the bulkhead and at the bottom where it screws into the sump.

Is it something like this you're recommending? https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-cts-clic-light-gray-pipe-clamp-clic2-010cts.html

Since the stand is metal, I'd have to figure out how to attach the clamp to the stand.
 

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Thank you for the advice. I did not support the plumbing with clamps. It's just supported at the top where it connects to the bulkhead and at the bottom where it screws into the sump.

Is it something like this you're recommending? https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-cts-clic-light-gray-pipe-clamp-clic2-010cts.html

Since the stand is metal, I'd have to figure out how to attach the clamp to the stand.
yeah those would work. there are metal self-tapping screws that would work or just drill holes. my stand is wood.
IMG_1049.jpeg
 
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Mr.Z

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While waiting for the tank to finish cycling I put together a DIY solution that allows me to cleanly mount the A360X without having to clip it on the back of the tank, spend money on Kessil’s extension mount, or drill into the stand.

I picked up a piece of 1“x3“ common board, wood screws, black paint, and zip ties to create my own version of an extension mount. I cut the wood to size so it could stand vertically on the ground but below the top of the tank, painted the wood, screwed in the A-Series mounting arm to the top of the wood, then zip tied the mount against the center brace of the stand. It was already quite sturdy like this but added double sided adhesive to the upper portion of wood and the back of the tank to eliminate any motion of the mount.

Still need to trim the zip ties and tidy the wires.
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Midrats

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Looking good! I totally agree with you on the black mesh. I had a very expensive custom clear lid on another tank and it transmitted light like fiber optics. The whole thing glowed. I left it on the tank for a couple of days until I couldn't take it anymore. It now resides in the equipment heap in the basement. Are you going to be able get your hand back there if you decide to change the height of the light? I have a Nuvo 50 EXT Lagoon on the way. I noticed in the pictures that there are two layers on the back wall. This isn't depicted in any of IM's pictures. Is it two layers of glass or is the inside piece acrylic, and is it also 10mm? I imagine they did this to facilitate the weir. Does the 6040 magnet hold securely on the thick panel?
 
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Mr.Z

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Looking good! I totally agree with you on the black mesh. I had a very expensive custom clear lid on another tank and it transmitted light like fiber optics. The whole thing glowed. I left it on the tank for a couple of days until I couldn't take it anymore. It now resides in the equipment heap in the basement. Are you going to be able get your hand back there if you decide to change the height of the light? I have a Nuvo 50 EXT Lagoon on the way. I noticed in the pictures that there are two layers on the back wall. This isn't depicted in any of IM's pictures. Is it two layers of glass or is the inside piece acrylic, and is it also 10mm? I imagine they did this to facilitate the weir. Does the 6040 magnet hold securely on the thick panel?

Congrats on ordering the new tank!

No issues accessing the back of the light. I can either stretch across the front of the tank or easily reach from the side.

On the back wall the inside layer is not glass. It’s an opaque, glossy black, which I’m assuming is PVC or acrylic. Photos below of the measurements of the side glass and the double-layer back wall.

The 6040 magnet sticks well on the back. I still have to use reasonable effort to yank it off.

Side glass:
B82B6C65-EE6E-4D18-A35D-292150859EBA.jpeg

Back glass:
F1A097A9-2120-44A6-86A4-5DE43A0D524B.jpeg
 

Midrats

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Thanks for the pics and glad to hear the 6040s mount firmly. I have two I want to use when the tank arrives. I only asked about the light height adjustment because my Kessil mounting arm was pretty close to the wall and it was a pain to adjust, I had to really employ my kung fu grip to turn the knob in such tight quarters, so much so that one of the plastic knobs came off, nothing a little glue didn't fix, inconvenient nonetheless as it fell behind the tank.

If you wouldn't mind, I have a couple more questions. The return bulkhead looks like it sits below the level of the weir a little. Do you find an excessive amount of back siphoning when the return pump is off? I have a Red Sea Reefer Nano sump I would like to use but think it may be a touch on the small side. If the Red Sea sump doesn't work I'll use a 15g rimless tank I have. I don't think the lack of baffles will be an issue as there are minimal bubbles and splash, if any, with a Herbie drain. Water level isn't a factor with the Tunze skimmer I have, and it has a sock on the output to defeat any micro bubbles, and to provide mechanical filtration, not that water level matters anyway since I'm using an ATO. Also, is the bottom shelf of the stand rigid and sturdy? There are reports on the interwebs (so you know it's true ;)) that it requires addition bracing to support a sump. I can't imagine IM overlooked this important detail.

I have fond memories of my time at Coast Guard TRACEN Cape May, and many good times in Wildwood on liberty. I also served with many people from Jersey. This I can say definitively, when the s**t hits the fan, I want someone from New Jersey to my left and to my right!
 
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Mr.Z

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Thanks for the pics and glad to hear the 6040s mount firmly. I have two I want to use when the tank arrives. I only asked about the light height adjustment because my Kessil mounting arm was pretty close to the wall and it was a pain to adjust, I had to really employ my kung fu grip to turn the knob in such tight quarters, so much so that one of the plastic knobs came off, nothing a little glue didn't fix, inconvenient nonetheless as it fell behind the tank.

If you wouldn't mind, I have a couple more questions. The return bulkhead looks like it sits below the level of the weir a little. Do you find an excessive amount of back siphoning when the return pump is off? I have a Red Sea Reefer Nano sump I would like to use but think it may be a touch on the small side. If the Red Sea sump doesn't work I'll use a 15g rimless tank I have. I don't think the lack of baffles will be an issue as there are minimal bubbles and splash, if any, with a Herbie drain. Water level isn't a factor with the Tunze skimmer I have, and it has a sock on the output to defeat any micro bubbles, and to provide mechanical filtration, not that water level matters anyway since I'm using an ATO. Also, is the bottom shelf of the stand rigid and sturdy? There are reports on the interwebs (so you know it's true ;)) that it requires addition bracing to support a sump. I can't imagine IM overlooked this important detail.

I have fond memories of my time at Coast Guard TRACEN Cape May, and many good times in Wildwood on liberty. I also served with many people from Jersey. This I can say definitively, when the s**t hits the fan, I want someone from New Jersey to my left and to my right!

Happy to answer more questions.

There is a decent amount of back siphon when I turn off the pump, which is fine with the sump I have but could be a problem with something smaller. You could just point the spout higher up so that the siphon breaks sooner and I think that’d solve the problem.

I actually just realized a couple days ago when I added my ATO reservoir that the bottom shelf/floor is a bit flimsy. There’s two braces that run across the bottom of the stand and then a somewhat flimsy board sits on top. My sump is acrylic and spans the whole width of the bottom perpendicular to the two support beams. So although it’s kind of only supported in the middle two-thirds, I think the sump is totally fine. However, I did find that the ATO reservoir, which sits against the right side is, is only partially supported by one of the floor beams, so the reservoir tilts and flexes the board it’s sitting on. Definitely not ideal and something I want to resolve. Only thing I’ve found about the Innovative Marine design that I’m not happy with.

Good to hear positive things about NJ for a change!
 

Midrats

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Too bad about the shelf, I had hoped it wasn't true, but suspected it was. My buddy has an APS stand with the 25 lagoon AIO and the flimsy shelf did grab my attention. You would think IM would have reinforced it with the advent of the INT and EXT tanks. Oh well, adapt, improvise, overcome, that's what we reefers do right? I was at least pleased to see that the additional shelf and overflow cover are no longer accessories and included. Glad to hear the shelf is the only demerit you can give the set up.

Looking forward to watching the progression of your tank. I may hit you up again once I start setting up the tank. Happy Fourth!
 
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Too bad about the shelf, I had hoped it wasn't true, but suspected it was. My buddy has an APS stand with the 25 lagoon AIO and the flimsy shelf did grab my attention. You would think IM would have reinforced it with the advent of the INT and EXT tanks. Oh well, adapt, improvise, overcome, that's what we reefers do right? I was at least pleased to see that the additional shelf and overflow cover are no longer accessories and included. Glad to hear the shelf is the only demerit you can give the set up.

Looking forward to watching the progression of your tank. I may hit you up again once I start setting up the tank. Happy Fourth!
Yes, let me know once you get it up and running. Eager to see how others set theirs up.
 
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Aquascape has been fully set up for a few weeks with the coral from my previous tank in place. Have a couple weeks left for the fallow period to get my clowns in here and have a batch of coral in QT waiting to be added in a couple months.

Baby steps.

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Midrats

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Looking good! Mine is wet with some sand and KP live rock. A Sicce 2.0 arrives today to replace the 3.5 I had lying around. It's way too much for the small overflow to handle quietly, even dialed all the way back. Plus the 3.5 is just loud.

The stand was pretty easy to put together. The hardest part was peeling off all the adhesive film. Any suggestions for cleaning off all the sticky residue that was left behind? I'd hate to damage the finish.
 
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Looking good! Mine is wet with some sand and KP live rock. A Sicce 2.0 arrives today to replace the 3.5 I had lying around. It's way too much for the small overflow to handle quietly, even dialed all the way back. Plus the 3.5 is just loud.

The stand was pretty easy to put together. The hardest part was peeling off all the adhesive film. Any suggestions for cleaning off all the sticky residue that was left behind? I'd hate to damage the finish.

I tried a mixture of water and vinegar and also windex to clean the stand. Neither has worked great. Have done a bunch of scrubbing with wet towels which has helped, but still have some residue to remove.

I've been turning my Sicce SDC 6.0 fairly low (33%) to try to eliminate any noise and also because the tank can't handle that much flow, as you noted. However, I'm installing a silicone connection from the pump to my hard plumbing this week. I'm hoping it reduces vibrations so I can crank the pump up a bit more without it making any noise.
 

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Congrats on the new upgrade! Looking good!
 

Midrats

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I tried a mixture of water and vinegar and also windex to clean the stand. Neither has worked great. Have done a bunch of scrubbing with wet towels which has helped, but still have some residue to remove.

I've been turning my Sicce SDC 6.0 fairly low (33%) to try to eliminate any noise and also because the tank can't handle that much flow, as you noted. However, I'm installing a silicone connection from the pump to my hard plumbing this week. I'm hoping it reduces vibrations so I can crank the pump up a bit more without it making any noise.

I went to town on it with a Norwex cloth and it has helped. I think it's just going to take a few sessions. So annoying! I hate stickers of all kinds!
 

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