My 80/20 build W/ Cabinetry & Leveling Casters

[Shadows Reef]

Started this build about a year and a half ago, designed the stand I would want with Parker T-Slots Aluminium Design Architect.

I then started looking for the tank I would want to match the stand. After much inquiry, I decide to go with SCA 150 Gallon Starfire Tank because the price point was really friendly and the quality to me seemed to be above most other aquarium manufacturers. Which I was amazed how quickly I got it, ordered on a Friday, was at my house by Wednesday.

After I confirmed the tank I wanted, I started looking for companies that I can get the 80/20 aluminum extrusions from. I looked at 80/20.com, t-nutz.com, framingtech.com and Alufab. Getting quotes from all, Alufab wan the bid, Michael Nimmo there was amazing and understood exactly what I wanted. I also got my leveling casters from casterhq.com, I chose to go with eight casters with rubber foot soles so the weight is more evenly distributed on my floor.

My next step was to go have the cabinetry built, originally I wanted to get two 8‘ x 4‘ sheets of 1/2” thick acrylic in an opaque white. But unfortunately, the price of acrylic went through the roof.
When I first looked into the price of those acrylic sheets they’re roughly between 250 and $300 per sheet.
Where by this time in my project inflation hit hard in the plastics industry and now the price of acrylic is closer to $700 and $800 per sheet. So going with all acrylic cabinetry fell a bit out of my price point. But maybe one day as I still have these design files to have the acrylic cut to the exact measurements I would want.

Here would have been the bottom panel with the doors, the smaller pieces were for me to have a brim around the bottom panel, so that It could contain water, should there be a minor leak.

This would have been the top panel with the doors and more brims for the bottom panel

Since going with acrylic was out of the picture had to go with the next best thing.
For the top and bottom panels went with birch plywood .725” thickness and MDF for the doors and used my table saw to cut the sheets.

checking to make sure my lip for my top panel was flush with the doors

One of the hardest things to find was the right hinge. Eventually found one of the Blum compact soft closed hinges that met my needs perfectly and also got the Blum tip-on push in spring opener to easily open the doors with a push

once I knew, all the pieces were perfect, then came the painting process. I used Duralux which is a high quality marine boat paint, it is enamel based paint so it’s a bit tricky to work with.

but after filling and sanding the wood to have it be at smooth as it can be, then, did the same with the priming, priming and sanding, until to smooth as it can be. Then over again with the paint. The final outcome: impeccable.

I also choose to get the Trigger Systems Platinum 39 sump, but because I wanted to have a dual return pumps for redundancy and of course wanted it to look clean I ordered another 1” return outlet and drilled and bored new threads to add on that new outlet fitting

as far as the plumbing goes in to do a return, I have one check valve on one side and another on the other side, I also utilized a 1 inch flow meter from Neptune systems on both sides, one of the main reasons why I wanted to have a dual return it should I need to take one flow meter off for maintenance. I can still run the system on the other side. Soon I have a replacement flowmeter so I can swap it out not have it down for too long.

of course, had to go with the Cepex ball fittings and the Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve

Also 3D printed some brick holders to tidy things up, I was really happy to have the leveling casters to just scoot this tank off-the-wall very easily

Here is my Aqua scape that also took quite some time to design, used the Aquaforest AF Rock, used about 4 boxes or about 200lbs with a few spare pieces left over

Took about two months to cycle, I used DR Tim’s one and only, one small bottle for the extra rock I left “cooking” in a brute trash with a few bubblers and a heater at a lower salinity for a few months before I got to the final stages of getting water in big boy and another big bottle once I had this system running. which soon after had a diatom bloom but that went away after about Two more weeks.

And here it is:

One day I will clean up this rats nest, but what I was most happy about was the door sensors to turn the lights on and off whenever I open up the doors

Here’s my dual return, one COR-20 that has it’s own manifold to go to the Algae Reactor, and the other Vectra S2 that has its own manifold to feed my avast ozone reactor

Recently swapped my PAX Bellum out for a ATS from clear water, because keeping chaeto alive is a bit difficult with all of the hair algae, suffocating the chaeto

Needed to remove the center brace from the sump to fit my Kalk Stirrer, but I still wanted to keep the integrity of the sump the same so I cut the brace to be flush with the lip of the sump and printed an 8020 beam in white to attach to my stand. Think I may print a black one to match the brace color one of these days.

Here it is today with about 22 frags that I just recently added most from corals I was able to bank and collect back some fragments and keep in my QT for little over 3 months.

then as far as fish I have the yellow tang, purple tang(even though they’re both zebrasomas, they get along quite well) two clowns that are extremely prolific, a wrasse named Roy and a goby.

for invertebrates I have 8 tuxedo urchins and about 20 cerith snails.

Thanks for checking out my build, Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions.

_______________2024 Update________________

So in August of last year I moved to a new house, I got two 150 gallon rubbermade water containers to help move the live stock which I’m thankful I got.

Unfortunately well the move went as well as any move goes, terrible. In my move I unfortunately cracked the glass tank when one of the heave duty suction cups(rated for 550lbs each) lost suction, it only cracked the bottom corner and I’m sure it would have still be okay but I didn’t want to risk it, especially with where my tank would sit in a recessed area of the living room, just seemed all bad if it were to leak. So I offered it for pick up for some fellow hobbyists that wanted a great tank with also a potential great risk that they understood upon pick up.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sca-150-free-for-local-pick-up.1018394/post-11923529

Once I had the old tank taken, I then got to work on the new tank, as I had to replumb the return lines, was pretty easy.

Once I got the new tank I was happy, unfortunately I lost many corals so it was like a restart in a way but this time with mature rock so decided to go bare bottom.

I then soon after had a terrible dinoflagellate outbreak, I actually identified the dinoflagellate to be the Ostreopsis Dino, so I ended up buying the best bang for buck UV I could find.

I need to take a recent picture, tomorrow I’ll make sure to update this further with more recent photos. Thanks for viewing, let me know if you have any questions

Please ignore photos below, can’t seem to delete them for some reason.

 

[blaxsun]

Very nice setup - you did an awesome job with the stand, panelling and plumbing. Great work!

 

[WestMI-Reefer]

Awesome build!

 

[Shadows Reef]

Very nice setup - you did an awesome job with the stand, panelling and plumbing. Great work!

Thank you very much!

 

[RedoubtReef]

Nice work on that cabinet. Why did you go with MDF doors over the birch ply?

 

[Shadows Reef]

Nice work on that cabinet. Why did you go with MDF doors over the birch ply?

Well the first reason is weight, with the soft close hinges, the doors do need to be somewhat light weight to not overpower the soft closing spring mechanism and the 2nd reason is when it came to boring the holes for the hinges, the plywood would have a bigger risk at splintering off, where the MDF would have a clean cut.

since I was going to be painting with the marine enamel paint, the door would be protected from the salt water anyway.

at this point, I could submerge these panels in salt water, and still be good, but of course I would not want to.

 

[Shadows Reef]

Going to swap out my Clearwater ATS from the V2 CW-100 to the V2 CW-200

just not big enough unfortunately

 

[Jampsu75]

Started this build about a year ago and a half ago, designed the stand I would want with Parker T-Slots Aluminium Design Architect.

I then started looking for the tank I would want to match the stand. After much inquiry, I decide to go with SCA 150 Gallon Starfire Tank because the price point was really friendly and the quality to me seemed to be above most other aquarium manufacturers. Which I was amazed how quickly I got it, ordered on a Friday, was at my house by Wednesday.

After I confirmed the tank I wanted, I started looking for companies that I can get the 80/20 aluminum extrusions from. I looked at 80/20.com, t-nutz.com, framingtech.com and Alufab. Getting quotes from all, Alufab wan the bid, Michael Nimmo there was amazing and understood exactly what I wanted. I also got my leveling casters from casterhq.com, I chose to go with eight casters with rubber foot soles so the weight is more evenly distributed on my floor.

My next step was to go have the cabinetry built, originally I wanted to get two 8‘ x 4‘ sheets of 1/2” thick acrylic in an opaque white. But unfortunately, the price of acrylic went through the roof.
When I first looked into the price of those acrylic sheets they’re roughly between 250 and $300 per sheet.
Where by this time in my project inflation hit hard in the plastics industry and now the price of acrylic is closer to $700 and $800 per sheet. So going with all acrylic cabinetry fell a bit out of my price point. But maybe one day as I still have these design files to have the acrylic cut to the exact measurements I would want.

Here would have been the bottom panel with the doors, the smaller pieces were for me to have a brim around the bottom panel, so that It could contain water, should there be a minor leak.

This would have been the top panel with the doors and more brims for the bottom panel

Since going with acrylic was out of the picture had to go with the next best thing.
For the top and bottom panels went with birch plywood .725” thickness and MDF for the doors and used my table saw to cut the sheets.

checking to make sure my lip for my top panel was flush with the doors

One of the hardest things to find was the right hinge. Eventually found one of the Blum compact soft closed hinges that met my needs perfectly and also got the Blum tip-on push in spring opener to easily open the doors with a push

once I knew, all the pieces were perfect, then came the painting process. I used Duralux which is a high quality marine boat paint, it is enamel based paint so it’s a bit tricky to work with.

but after filling and sanding the wood to have it be at smooth as it can be, then, did the same with the priming, priming and sanding, until to smooth as it can be. Then over again with the paint. The final outcome: impeccable.

I also choose to get the Trigger Systems Platinum 39 sump, but because I wanted to have a dual return pumps for redundancy and of course wanted it to look clean I ordered another 1” return outlet and drilled and bored new threads to add on that new outlet fitting

as far as the plumbing goes in to do a return, I have one check valve on one side and another on the other side, I also utilized a 1 inch flow meter from Neptune systems on both sides, one of the main reasons why I wanted to have a dual return it should I need to take one flow meter off for maintenance. I can still run the system on the other side. Soon I have a replacement flowmeter so I can swap it out not have it down for too long.

of course, had to go with the Cepex ball fittings and the Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve

Also 3D printed some brick holders to tidy things up, I was really happy to have the leveling casters to just scoot this tank off-the-wall very easily

Here is my Aqua scape that also took quite some time to design, used the Aquaforest AF Rock, used about 4 boxes or about 200lbs with a few spare pieces left over

Took about two months to cycle, I used DR Tim’s one and only, one small bottle for the extra rock I left “cooking” in a brute trash with a few bubblers and a heater at a lower salinity for a few months before I got to the final stages of getting water in big boy and another big bottle once I had this system running. which soon after had a diatom bloom but that went away after about Two more weeks.

And here it is:

One day I will clean up this rats nest, but what I was most happy about was the door sensors to turn the lights on and off whenever I open up the doors

Here’s my dual return, one COR-20 that has it’s own manifold to go to the Algae Reactor, and the other Vectra S2 that has its own manifold to feed my avast ozone reactor

Recently swapped my PAX Bellum out for a ATS from clear water, because keeping chaeto alive is a bit difficult with all of the hair algae, suffocating the chaeto

Needed to remove the center brace from the sump to fit my Kalk Stirrer, but I still wanted to keep the integrity of the sump the same so I cut the brace to be flush with the lip of the sump and printed an 8020 beam in white to attach to my stand. Think I may print a black one to match the brace color one of these days.

Here it is today with about 22 frags that I just recently added most from corals I was able to bank and collect back some fragments and keep in my QT for little over 3 months.

then as far as fish I have the yellow tang, purple tang(even though they’re both zebrasomas, they get along quite well) two clowns that are extremely prolific, a wrasse named Roy and a goby.

for invertebrates I have 8 tuxedo urchins and about 20 cerith snails.

Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions.

as far as the photos below, ignore them, there duplicates that I can’t seems to delete no matter how many times I edit this.
But thanks for checking out my build

Amazing build, I've often wondered what an 8020 build would look like. Thank you! If you wouldn't mind answering a few questions for me it would be great.
1. Cost of 8020 and casters.
2. Do you see any flex or deflection with the weight distribution.
3. Any updated pictures?

Thank you

 

[jp_75]

Very nicely done! How is the finish of that paint? Smell? One coat a day? I’m painter by trade so very sensitive to how it levels. Does it have furniture look?

 

[Shadows Reef]

Amazing build, I've often wondered what an 8020 build would look like. Thank you! If you wouldn't mind answering a few questions for me it would be great.
1. Cost of 8020 and casters.
2. Do you see any flex or deflection with the weight distribution.
3. Any updated pictures?

Thank you

I don’t remember exactly but together I believe the extrusions and casters was around $1500

8020 is extremely strong, as long as you secure them properly with a high quality ball end hex nothing is going to budge or lean one bit, I was really impressed once I had it together as far as flex, I went overkill with my double brace but TBH I doubt I would see any flex even without a center brace, as long as your top and bottom base is at least 15x30(80/20 in 1.5” x 3”) with reinforcement bars connecting front to back, there won’t be any flex.

I’m in the process of moving but I’ll see if I can take a new pic tomorrow before I tear it down for the move

 

[Shadows Reef]

Very nicely done! How is the finish of that paint? Smell? One coat a day? I’m painter by trade so very sensitive to how it levels. Does it have furniture look?

The paint was amazing, tried to set up a dust free room with a Wagner spray tent, I wanted to spray it but my good sprayer that can actually spray oil based paints was in Utah at the time so had to roll it on instead, my biggest enemy was the fibers from the lint free rolls(lint free my butt)

Had to do quite a few coats because I kept sanding it out after each coat to try to achieve the gloss like finish. But it was worth it.

I’m sure if I sprayed it it would have turned out much better.

And the smell…Oh man have a feeling you already know, that paint smelled like spilled gas it was so strong. Definitely something to do with heavy ventilation if you can because even in the garage, it still made the house stink and let me tell you my wife was ticked lol

But I can see it being used for furniture, but it’s certainly a harder paint to work with.

Xylene might help to thin it out if you need to but the manufacturer doesn’t recommend it if you don’t need to from what I remember

But if spraying just keep in mind this stuff is flammable and should be used in a sprayer that can safely spray flammable based paints(not for you, I’m sure you already know this, but for others that read this)

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Started this build about a year ago and a half ago, designed the stand I would want with Parker T-Slots Aluminium Design Architect.

I then started looking for the tank I would want to match the stand. After much inquiry, I decide to go with SCA 150 Gallon Starfire Tank because the price point was really friendly and the quality to me seemed to be above most other aquarium manufacturers. Which I was amazed how quickly I got it, ordered on a Friday, was at my house by Wednesday.

After I confirmed the tank I wanted, I started looking for companies that I can get the 80/20 aluminum extrusions from. I looked at 80/20.com, t-nutz.com, framingtech.com and Alufab. Getting quotes from all, Alufab wan the bid, Michael Nimmo there was amazing and understood exactly what I wanted. I also got my leveling casters from casterhq.com, I chose to go with eight casters with rubber foot soles so the weight is more evenly distributed on my floor.

My next step was to go have the cabinetry built, originally I wanted to get two 8‘ x 4‘ sheets of 1/2” thick acrylic in an opaque white. But unfortunately, the price of acrylic went through the roof.
When I first looked into the price of those acrylic sheets they’re roughly between 250 and $300 per sheet.
Where by this time in my project inflation hit hard in the plastics industry and now the price of acrylic is closer to $700 and $800 per sheet. So going with all acrylic cabinetry fell a bit out of my price point. But maybe one day as I still have these design files to have the acrylic cut to the exact measurements I would want.

Here would have been the bottom panel with the doors, the smaller pieces were for me to have a brim around the bottom panel, so that It could contain water, should there be a minor leak.

This would have been the top panel with the doors and more brims for the bottom panel

Since going with acrylic was out of the picture had to go with the next best thing.
For the top and bottom panels went with birch plywood .725” thickness and MDF for the doors and used my table saw to cut the sheets.

checking to make sure my lip for my top panel was flush with the doors

One of the hardest things to find was the right hinge. Eventually found one of the Blum compact soft closed hinges that met my needs perfectly and also got the Blum tip-on push in spring opener to easily open the doors with a push

once I knew, all the pieces were perfect, then came the painting process. I used Duralux which is a high quality marine boat paint, it is enamel based paint so it’s a bit tricky to work with.

but after filling and sanding the wood to have it be at smooth as it can be, then, did the same with the priming, priming and sanding, until to smooth as it can be. Then over again with the paint. The final outcome: impeccable.

I also choose to get the Trigger Systems Platinum 39 sump, but because I wanted to have a dual return pumps for redundancy and of course wanted it to look clean I ordered another 1” return outlet and drilled and bored new threads to add on that new outlet fitting

as far as the plumbing goes in to do a return, I have one check valve on one side and another on the other side, I also utilized a 1 inch flow meter from Neptune systems on both sides, one of the main reasons why I wanted to have a dual return it should I need to take one flow meter off for maintenance. I can still run the system on the other side. Soon I have a replacement flowmeter so I can swap it out not have it down for too long.

of course, had to go with the Cepex ball fittings and the Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve

Also 3D printed some brick holders to tidy things up, I was really happy to have the leveling casters to just scoot this tank off-the-wall very easily

Here is my Aqua scape that also took quite some time to design, used the Aquaforest AF Rock, used about 4 boxes or about 200lbs with a few spare pieces left over

Took about two months to cycle, I used DR Tim’s one and only, one small bottle for the extra rock I left “cooking” in a brute trash with a few bubblers and a heater at a lower salinity for a few months before I got to the final stages of getting water in big boy and another big bottle once I had this system running. which soon after had a diatom bloom but that went away after about Two more weeks.

And here it is:

One day I will clean up this rats nest, but what I was most happy about was the door sensors to turn the lights on and off whenever I open up the doors

Here’s my dual return, one COR-20 that has it’s own manifold to go to the Algae Reactor, and the other Vectra S2 that has its own manifold to feed my avast ozone reactor

Recently swapped my PAX Bellum out for a ATS from clear water, because keeping chaeto alive is a bit difficult with all of the hair algae, suffocating the chaeto

Needed to remove the center brace from the sump to fit my Kalk Stirrer, but I still wanted to keep the integrity of the sump the same so I cut the brace to be flush with the lip of the sump and printed an 8020 beam in white to attach to my stand. Think I may print a black one to match the brace color one of these days.

Here it is today with about 22 frags that I just recently added most from corals I was able to bank and collect back some fragments and keep in my QT for little over 3 months.

then as far as fish I have the yellow tang, purple tang(even though they’re both zebrasomas, they get along quite well) two clowns that are extremely prolific, a wrasse named Roy and a goby.

for invertebrates I have 8 tuxedo urchins and about 20 cerith snails.

Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions.

as far as the photos below, ignore them, there duplicates that I can’t seems to delete no matter how many times I edit this.
But thanks for checking out my build

Tank looks great!

 

[BanZI29]

WOW!! this is a really SIK setup! the Brick holder is on point.
are you brewing phyto also?

 

[Shadows Reef]

Tank looks great!

Thank you! Moving so I might make some improvements, going to look at the price of acrylic and see if it finally came down a bit

 

[Shadows Reef]

WOW!! this is a really SIK setup! the Brick holder is on point.
are you brewing phyto also?

I use to but I haven’t really dedicated the time to do it again for a while.

Once I move into my new place, I may dedicate a shelf in the garage for growing phyto again

 

[jbrady429]

Started this build about a year ago and a half ago, designed the stand I would want with Parker T-Slots Aluminium Design Architect.

I then started looking for the tank I would want to match the stand. After much inquiry, I decide to go with SCA 150 Gallon Starfire Tank because the price point was really friendly and the quality to me seemed to be above most other aquarium manufacturers. Which I was amazed how quickly I got it, ordered on a Friday, was at my house by Wednesday.

After I confirmed the tank I wanted, I started looking for companies that I can get the 80/20 aluminum extrusions from. I looked at 80/20.com, t-nutz.com, framingtech.com and Alufab. Getting quotes from all, Alufab wan the bid, Michael Nimmo there was amazing and understood exactly what I wanted. I also got my leveling casters from casterhq.com, I chose to go with eight casters with rubber foot soles so the weight is more evenly distributed on my floor.

My next step was to go have the cabinetry built, originally I wanted to get two 8‘ x 4‘ sheets of 1/2” thick acrylic in an opaque white. But unfortunately, the price of acrylic went through the roof.
When I first looked into the price of those acrylic sheets they’re roughly between 250 and $300 per sheet.
Where by this time in my project inflation hit hard in the plastics industry and now the price of acrylic is closer to $700 and $800 per sheet. So going with all acrylic cabinetry fell a bit out of my price point. But maybe one day as I still have these design files to have the acrylic cut to the exact measurements I would want.

Here would have been the bottom panel with the doors, the smaller pieces were for me to have a brim around the bottom panel, so that It could contain water, should there be a minor leak.

This would have been the top panel with the doors and more brims for the bottom panel

Since going with acrylic was out of the picture had to go with the next best thing.
For the top and bottom panels went with birch plywood .725” thickness and MDF for the doors and used my table saw to cut the sheets.

checking to make sure my lip for my top panel was flush with the doors

One of the hardest things to find was the right hinge. Eventually found one of the Blum compact soft closed hinges that met my needs perfectly and also got the Blum tip-on push in spring opener to easily open the doors with a push

once I knew, all the pieces were perfect, then came the painting process. I used Duralux which is a high quality marine boat paint, it is enamel based paint so it’s a bit tricky to work with.

but after filling and sanding the wood to have it be at smooth as it can be, then, did the same with the priming, priming and sanding, until to smooth as it can be. Then over again with the paint. The final outcome: impeccable.

I also choose to get the Trigger Systems Platinum 39 sump, but because I wanted to have a dual return pumps for redundancy and of course wanted it to look clean I ordered another 1” return outlet and drilled and bored new threads to add on that new outlet fitting

as far as the plumbing goes in to do a return, I have one check valve on one side and another on the other side, I also utilized a 1 inch flow meter from Neptune systems on both sides, one of the main reasons why I wanted to have a dual return it should I need to take one flow meter off for maintenance. I can still run the system on the other side. Soon I have a replacement flowmeter so I can swap it out not have it down for too long.

of course, had to go with the Cepex ball fittings and the Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve

Also 3D printed some brick holders to tidy things up, I was really happy to have the leveling casters to just scoot this tank off-the-wall very easily

Here is my Aqua scape that also took quite some time to design, used the Aquaforest AF Rock, used about 4 boxes or about 200lbs with a few spare pieces left over

Took about two months to cycle, I used DR Tim’s one and only, one small bottle for the extra rock I left “cooking” in a brute trash with a few bubblers and a heater at a lower salinity for a few months before I got to the final stages of getting water in big boy and another big bottle once I had this system running. which soon after had a diatom bloom but that went away after about Two more weeks.

And here it is:

One day I will clean up this rats nest, but what I was most happy about was the door sensors to turn the lights on and off whenever I open up the doors

Here’s my dual return, one COR-20 that has it’s own manifold to go to the Algae Reactor, and the other Vectra S2 that has its own manifold to feed my avast ozone reactor

Recently swapped my PAX Bellum out for a ATS from clear water, because keeping chaeto alive is a bit difficult with all of the hair algae, suffocating the chaeto

Needed to remove the center brace from the sump to fit my Kalk Stirrer, but I still wanted to keep the integrity of the sump the same so I cut the brace to be flush with the lip of the sump and printed an 8020 beam in white to attach to my stand. Think I may print a black one to match the brace color one of these days.

Here it is today with about 22 frags that I just recently added most from corals I was able to bank and collect back some fragments and keep in my QT for little over 3 months.

then as far as fish I have the yellow tang, purple tang(even though they’re both zebrasomas, they get along quite well) two clowns that are extremely prolific, a wrasse named Roy and a goby.

for invertebrates I have 8 tuxedo urchins and about 20 cerith snails.

Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions.

as far as the photos below, ignore them, there duplicates that I can’t seems to delete no matter how many times I edit this.
But thanks for checking out my build

How did you attach the Blum hinges to the t-slot?

 

[Shadows Reef]

How did you attach the Blum hinges to the t-slot?

With these nuts of course lol :

(DB-015) 15 / 40 Series Drop-In T-Nut w/spring-ball | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% Equivalent to the following manufacturers: 10-32 - 80/20 #13039, T-Slots #664115, Frame-World #EF-93 1/4-20 - 80/20 #13037, T-Slots #664114, Frame-World #EF-92 5/16-18 - 80/20 #13040, T-Slots #664116, Frame-World #EF-91 M4 - 80/20 #13027 M5 - 80/20 #13028, T-Slots #664111 M6...

www.tnutz.com

Just make sure to pick the right nut for screw you are using they have other T-nuts with other screw sizes also

 

[jbrady429]

With these nuts of course lol :

(DB-015) 15 / 40 Series Drop-In T-Nut w/spring-ball | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% Equivalent to the following manufacturers: 10-32 - 80/20 #13039, T-Slots #664115, Frame-World #EF-93 1/4-20 - 80/20 #13037, T-Slots #664114, Frame-World #EF-92 5/16-18 - 80/20 #13040, T-Slots #664116, Frame-World #EF-91 M4 - 80/20 #13027 M5 - 80/20 #13028, T-Slots #664111 M6...

www.tnutz.com

Just make sure to pick the right nut for screw you are using they have other T-nuts with other screw sizes also

Thanks! What screw did you use? I have the Blum hinges, but the usual 5/16 or 1/4-20 screws are too wide to fit through the holes in the hinge plates.

 

[Shadows Reef]

Thanks! What screw did you use? I have the Blum hinges, but the usual 5/16 or 1/4-20 screws are too wide to fit through the holes in the hinge plates.

After checking I can confirm I used an M4.

I would recommend getting screws with a Phillips drive and not a hex socket on the head for the screws that will mount the hinges to the rails, trust me, it’ll make your life a little easier when it comes to those fine adjustments you’ll have to make so all the doors sit flush.

All of hardware should be stainless steel, 316 stainless preferably but we can survive with regular stainless.

 

[jbrady429]

After checking I can confirm I used an M4.

I would recommend getting screws with a Phillips drive and not a hex socket on the head for the screws that will mount the hinges to the rails, trust me, it’ll make your life a little easier when it comes to those fine adjustments you’ll have to make so all the doors sit flush.

All of hardware should be stainless steel, 316 stainless preferably but we can survive with regular stainless.

Thank you! I have those same hinges and have built a new stand with parts from Tnutz.com (they’re fantastic!). I’ll dig through their website for some series 15 M4 bolts and hardware. I was thinking I was going to have to try to drill out the holes in the hinges, but that has proven to be extremely difficult! The metal just chews bits up.