Aquarium testing
Day 4
Ammonia. 25ppm
Nitrate 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
PH 8.0
Day 4
Ammonia. 25ppm
Nitrate 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
PH 8.0
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Posted in wrong area I think.Do you have a question?
Are you supplying ammonia somehow?
Posted in wrong area I think.
No question
You guys have really helped me out with your evidence and proofs on every step. I am cycling a Marineland 5 gallon with Biospira. I probably put too much Ammonia (using Reef Roids), but I’ll be testing in 24 hours to see how it’s doing. I expect a full cycle in at most 2 weeks.Here’s how helpful no context api readings are for cycle troubleshoots
Warter Parameters help
Just wanted to see what's everyone's opinion is on how these look????www.reef2reef.com
the opening post is this exact same reading set posted above, but from a fully cycled tank. Just because people list params doesn’t mean they’re correct. I bet this is a common bottle bac cycle matching fifty thousand other ones on file.
if the bottle bac used was Dr Tims, biospira, or Fritz then the stage we are at is choosing a fish disease protocol and running that based on the fish disease forum stickies.
if this was any other bottle bac then add a pinch of fish food to the water, wait for thirty days and then select a fish disease protocol from the fish disease forum. This cycle has now been wrangled
since this is the chemistry forum lets verify the bottle bac were alive. Post a pic of the current ammonia reading
Add small amount of cycling ammonia to bring up the reading to .5 not one iota higher, post that pic #2
Next day after dosing slight ammonia post pic #3 and we see if it moved back to pic one set baseline at .25
heres a direct example set of three pics proofing a cycle:
JackAlexander
pic one as the baseline from a suspected ready reef, after a full water change the lowest attainable read is .25
ammonia was dosed too high as usual but it still passes. Stop at .5 that’s enough rise.
24 hours later, cycle is proofed.
if you are on Dr Tims or biospira or Fritz, run the proofing test now. If you’re on slow alternate brands, run it in the middle of December and it’ll pass
last caveat: if you’re using already cycled live rock wet from a pet store, don’t do any of this just enjoy your skip cycle reef. These assessments are for dry starts only
Thanks for your help - I thought I would do a ~16 hour later update. This is what the API tests read this morning. Ammonia is a shade lighter and Nitrite and Nitrates are a richer color.Howdy
Your cycle is different from Peter's in that he had a significant live rock (skip cycle) component and we were discussing how api can show constant low level readings even in cycled tanks.
Based on the small snippet of pics yours looks to be an all dry setup, here's how i personally would customize that cycle- two easy options:
1. The degree of ammonia you input isn't bad it won't kill the bacteria. Biospira is so well known and tested i predict on seneye your nh3 would already be down to hundredths ppm, that fast, and api showing green when seneye shows hundredths ppm is clearly shown right here:
New Cycle - Seneye vs API
Hello All, Have just started to cycle a new DD ReefPro 900. Am using Fritzzyme Fishless food and Turbo Start and am 2 days in. I have dosed twice with Fishless food on the back of the seneye readings which are as follows: But the API result seems to be showing a different story. I`ve seen a...www.reef2reef.com
So option one is, wait a week for it to stew and then change all the water and the cycling bacteria are left behind stuck to surfaces and the typical starting bioload can be carried.
2. Wait out the two weeks planned for ammonia to drop. If that color lightens any degree before then, likely in a week or so, then that's cycled (bac adheres to surfaces change out the water for new) even if the api kit didn't move to zero yellow. Any poll on api shows the majority of testers don't get solid zero on a cycled system (the misread problem, more commonly nh3 vs nh4 interpretation error) and that thread above shows api taking around ten days longer to show the true drop that seneye would likely show right now.
* if your color doesn't drop by day ten, still change water and begin that's long enough to stew and bacteria will be on surfaces anyway, even if api doesn't agree.
Final cycle boost trick from Dr Reef: right now add one small pinch of fish flake food ground into powder into the display. That carbon will speed the whole process up.