My GHA nightmare is back in just over a week.

[saullman]

2-7-19
Cleaned my JBJ 45 pulling out by hand as much GHA as I can and then scrubbing the rocks with a toothbrush while in the tank. I also performed a 10% water change right after cleaning the tank.

2-17-19
Algae is back. Scrubbed tank again and performed a 15% wc.
Moved hermits out of tank in order to stock up on a better CUC (hermits keep eating all the snails)
Tested nitrates and phosphates. Here are the results............

Salifert phosphate test kit results

API kit. Holding the test tube against the color chart

Same test. Holding the test tube away from the color chart

Somebody help!!!!!!

 

[VB313]

Lower your feedings maybe? Seems like your doing everything eles right manual removal water changes right after wise

 

[saullman]

Lower your feedings maybe? Seems like your doing everything eles right manual removal water changes right after wise

I'm not even feeding everyday. Went to every other day.

 

[MaiReef]

What do you have to remove nutrients?

 

[MaiReef]

Keep in mind the GHA is taking its nutrients before your test results.

 

[saullman]

What do you have to remove nutrients?

I bought nopox, but haven't used it yet. I was trying to exhaust all other possibilities before I started dosing.

 

[JonJ]

GHA can be a real pain to beat. I have used fluconazole and it will rid your tank of it in a few weeks. Maintaining a lower nutrient after it’s gone will keep it away. Trying the non chemical approach with manual removal and water changes is always best but GHA can persist for a LONG time.

 

[MaiReef]

I bought nopox, but haven't used it yet. I was trying to exhaust all other possibilities before I started dosing.

What is your filtration system? You do not need to dose to get rid of GHA

 

[saullman]

What is your filtration system? You do not need to dose to get rid of GHA

I have an AIO tank. JBJ 45. I am using a filter sock on one side and some floss on the other side. Other than that, just the stock ceramic rings the tank came with. I do have a tunze skimmer.

Sorry for the confusion with nopox. I don't actually have a doser so I would be manually applying it by hand.

 

[Fish_Sticks]

The algae control bible as prescribed by fish_sticks.

The rules of algae management:

1. do not make sudden changes, do not use hydrogen peroxide, do not turn off your lights and perform a tank blackout (this is not only bad for your corals, but your fish), or do anything that would be described as a fast fix. These strategies do not work long term. As soon as you stop dosing, as soon as you turn back on the lights, the algae will come back. These are foolish strategies.

2. patience. Understand that it will take a few weeks or even a month to fix the problem. This hobby is based on the slowest changing thing in the world, the ocean. Patience is required to achieve success in the hobby.

3. algae is not a bad thing. Sure its ugly, but its not going to crash your tank in a few weeks. Every single tank on the planet has algae, there is no way to get rid of it. The secret that nobody talks about, is that you never get rid of algae, you control algae.

4. during this process, you should be manually removing algae from the tank when it reaches high levels, or when it threatens the well being of your corals and fish.

5. do not do too much too fast. Take things slow and focus on changing your habits. The algae will dissipate with time if you perform a responsible maintenance routine. Plus, fish love a little snack of fresh grown algae, they are probably having a ball while they watch you run around like a crazy person changing a hundred things on the tank and ruining the balance of the ecosystem.

6. this bible assumes that you arent running your lights for longer than 14/16 hours. Although algae likes light, it cannot survive on just light. If you have a dirty tank, you can grow algea with lights on for only a few hours a day. Fix the real problem...

7. do not add more snails, shrimp, fish or any other animals to the system to eat your algae. This is another fool's tactic. Your just creating more crap. Fix the real problem...

Why do you have algae? Its plain and simple, don't let anyone fool you.
Your tank is dirty; maybe not chemically, but physically.

Nitrate levels around 10-20 are perfectly fine. Phosphates dont even really matter that much. Algae doesn't even really like nitrogen, what they do love, is ammonia!

For algae to use nitrogen, they must convert it into ammonia.

Algae love ammonia because it is less work for algae to consume ammonia than nitrogen.

When detritus (fish crap uneaten food) breaks down into ammonia, the ammonia is usually taken up by the bacteria in your rock; however, because algae use ammonia very efficiently, algae can use ammonia before the bacteria have a chance. This causes some bacteria to die off and for the algae to get worse over time.

Can you see how this would create a snowball effect?

Your algae is essentially taking over your bacteria.

This gets even worse because the algae also contributes to clogging up your rock and taking up valuable surface area that bacteria need to live. Algae can overtake your bacteria when it comes to using ammonia. Think you can keep reducing your nitrates into oblivion and starving your corals in hopes your algae will magically disappear? Think again. Your tank is dirty.

So, if you remove the detritus, you solve your algae problems. Don't let anyone fool you otherwise!

Where is the detritus?
It can be in the holes and pores of your rock. Detritus looks just like you think it would, brownish green fish poop.
Fix: use a turkey baster to blast out only a few rocks per day, overtime your equipment (skimmer or filter socks) will collect the detritus. You also create more surface area for bacteria to live inside the rocks.
It can be in your sand bed.
Fix: Vacuum out your sand bed with a gravel vacuum. This can and should be done on a regular basis during your routine water changes, and you kill two birds with one stone; changing the water, and cleaning detritus! I like to vacuum out with my right hand, hold the end of the hose with my left, and control the flow of water in the siphon hose with my left hand fingers.
It can be in your equipment.
Fix: Clean your equipment on a regular basis, check any sponges, filter floss, pumps, wavemaker suction cups. Detritus can get lodged anywhere.
It can be in your sump.
Fix: I like to suck it up with a turkey baster. The best part about the baster is you can use it to blow water out, or suck things up.
It can be in your macroalgae (if you're growing macroalgae).
Fix: After a small 1G water change, just shake out your chaeto macroalgae in your water change water.

Great so now I can go crazy cleaning my tank right?
Not so fast. Doing too much at one time can cause your tank to crash. Only do a fair amount of maintenance a day. Doing too much than your equipment can handle will cause your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate production to rise too much too fast. This is not so much about getting rid of the algae as much as it is improving your maintenance habits. If you fix your habits, the algae will be under control; and stay under control.

How do I avoid detritus buildup?
Well if you look around your tank, I'm sure you can find dead spots where water inst flowing very well. See if you can find some dead spots and fix them.

If you have a power head pointed directly at a rock, its gonna lodge a bunch of crud into there.

But I have friends coming over and I want my tank to look nice fast.
That's just too bad. The algae has be slowly gaining power overtime and getting stronger and stronger though weeks of work because you have detritus build up. If you think you can fix all that in one or two weeks, then you're out of luck.

But I have super duper deadly byopsis, cotton candy algae, (insert buzzword terrible evil algea here, AHHHH NITRATES ARE AT 11 PPM IM GONNA DIE, I NEED TO USE PHOSBAN ASAP. IM NEVER GONNA FEED MY FISH AGAIN!!!! MAYBE I NEED TO RIP OUT ALL MY ROCK AND TOSS IN IN BLEACH !!!! OR JUST CHANGE MY T5 BULBS AND IT WILL GO AWAY AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!)
Calm dowwwwwn. So what. All algae does the same thing. They feed off the ammonia produced by the detritus in your aquarium. You can carefully physically remove the algae just like normal, remain calm, dont do anything too fast, dont result to stupid quick fixes, have some fun, and follow the algae bible.

Lots and lots of people are gonna tell you otherwise, but that's not their fault. They don't know any better.
This is your tank.
You've been given the algae bible. Follow the rules. If you don't use it, your tank will only have you to blame, not random people on the forums who suggested you try a couple of foolish quick fixes in a hobby based entirely on patience; based around the slowest changing thing in the entire world, the ocean.

 

[xaflatoonx]

that is an excellent article

The algae control bible as prescribed by fish_sticks.

The rules of algae management:

1. do not make sudden changes, do not use hydrogen peroxide, do not turn off your lights and perform a tank blackout (this is not only bad for your corals, but your fish), or do anything that would be described as a fast fix. These strategies do not work long term. As soon as you stop dosing, as soon as you turn back on the lights, the algae will come back. These are foolish strategies.

2. patience. Understand that it will take a few weeks or even a month to fix the problem. This hobby is based on the slowest changing thing in the world, the ocean. Patience is required to achieve success in the hobby.

3. algae is not a bad thing. Sure its ugly, but its not going to crash your tank in a few weeks. Every single tank on the planet has algae, there is no way to get rid of it. The secret that nobody talks about, is that you never get rid of algae, you control algae.

4. during this process, you should be manually removing algae from the tank when it reaches high levels, or when it threatens the well being of your corals and fish.

5. do not do too much too fast. Take things slow and focus on changing your habits. The algae will dissipate with time if you perform a responsible maintenance routine. Plus, fish love a little snack of fresh grown algae, they are probably having a ball while they watch you run around like a crazy person changing a hundred things on the tank and ruining the balance of the ecosystem.

6. this bible assumes that you arent running your lights for longer than 14/16 hours. Although algae likes light, it cannot survive on just light. If you have a dirty tank, you can grow algea with lights on for only a few hours a day. Fix the real problem...

7. do not add more snails, shrimp, fish or any other animals to the system to eat your algae. This is another fool's tactic. Your just creating more crap. Fix the real problem...

Why do you have algae? Its plain and simple, don't let anyone fool you.
Your tank is dirty; maybe not chemically, but physically.

Nitrate levels around 10-20 are perfectly fine. Phosphates dont even really matter that much. Algae doesn't even really like nitrogen, what they do love, is ammonia!

For algae to use nitrogen, they must convert it into ammonia.

Algae love ammonia because it is less work for algae to consume ammonia than nitrogen.

When detritus (fish crap uneaten food) breaks down into ammonia, the ammonia is usually taken up by the bacteria in your rock; however, because algae use ammonia very efficiently, algae can use ammonia before the bacteria have a chance. This causes some bacteria to die off and for the algae to get worse over time.

Can you see how this would create a snowball effect?

Your algae is essentially taking over your bacteria.

This gets even worse because the algae also contributes to clogging up your rock and taking up valuable surface area that bacteria need to live. Algae can overtake your bacteria when it comes to using ammonia. Think you can keep reducing your nitrates into oblivion and starving your corals in hopes your algae will magically disappear? Think again. Your tank is dirty.

So, if you remove the detritus, you solve your algae problems. Don't let anyone fool you otherwise!

Where is the detritus?
It can be in the holes and pores of your rock.
Fix: use a turkey baster to blast out only a few rocks per day, overtime your equipment (skimmer or filter socks) will collect the detritus. You also create more surface area for bacteria to live inside the rocks.
It can be in your sand bed.
Fix: Vacuum out your sand bed with a gravel vacuum. This can and should be done on a regular basis during your routine water changes, and you kill two birds with one stone; changing the water, and cleaning detritus! I like to vacuum out with my right hand, hold the end of the hose with my left, and control the flow of water in the siphon hose with my left hand fingers.
It can be in your equipment.
Fix: Clean your equipment on a regular basis, check any sponges, filter floss, pumps, wavemaker suction cups. Detritus can get lodged anywhere.
It can be in your sump.
Fix: I like to suck it up with a turkey baster. The best part about the baster is you can use it to blow water out, or suck things up.
It can be in your macroalgae (if you're growing macroalgae).
Fix: After a small 1G water change, just shake out your chaeto macroalgae in your water change water.

Great so now I can go crazy cleaning my tank right?
Not so fast. Doing too much at one time can cause your tank to crash. Only do a fair amount of maintenance a day. Doing too much than your equipment can handle will cause your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate production to rise too much too fast. This is not so much about getting rid of the algae as much as it is improving your maintenance habits. If you fix your habits, the algae will be under control; and stay under control.

How do I avoid detritus buildup?
Well if you look around your tank, I'm sure you can find dead spots where water inst flowing very well. See if you can find some dead spots and fix them.

If you have a power head pointed directly at a rock, its gonna lodge a bunch of crud into there.

But I have friends coming over and I want my tank to look nice fast.
That's just too bad. The algae has be slowly gaining power overtime and getting stronger and stronger though weeks of work because you have detritus build up. If you think you can fix all that in one or two weeks, then you're out of luck.

But I have super duper deadly byopsis, cotton candy algae, (insert buzzword terrible evil algea here, AHHHH NITRATES ARE AT 11 PPM IM GONNA DIE, I NEED TO USE PHOSBAN ASAP. IM NEVER GONNA FEED MY FISH AGAIN!!!! MAYBE I NEED TO RIP OUT ALL MY ROCK AND TOSS IN IN BLEACH !!!! OR JUST CHANGE MY T5 BULBS AND IT WILL GO AWAY AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!)
Calm dowwwwwn. So what. All algae does the same thing. They feed off the ammonia produced by the detritus in your aquarium. You can carefully physically remove the algae just like normal, remain calm, dont do anything too fast, dont result to stupid quick fixes, and follow the algae bible.

Lots and lots of people are gonna tell you otherwise, but that's not their fault. They don't know any better.
This is your tank.
You've been given the algae bible. Follow the rules. If you don't use it, your tank will only have you to blame, not random people on the forums who suggested you try a couple of foolish quick fixes in a hobby based entirely on patience; based around the slowest changing thing in the entire world, the ocean.

 

[Fish_Sticks]

that is an excellent article

Thanks, I wrote it today at work. Lol. I wish I could email it to myself 5 years ago.

 

[Florida Sunshine]

Are you running any phosphate removal media? I hear a lot about balancing nitrates and phosphates and most people seem to agree that you need some of each to keep things healthy. If you have one without the other it limits what can be used.
I would also increase the percentage of water change or at least siphon out as much algae as you can while scrubbing with that toothbrush will do a world of good as well. Simply scrubbing it from the rock and not removing it from the system the nutrients are still in the tank.

 

[Halal Hotdog]

2-7-19
Cleaned my JBJ 45 pulling out by hand as much GHA as I can and then scrubbing the rocks with a toothbrush while in the tank. I also performed a 10% water change right after cleaning the tank.

2-17-19
Algae is back. Scrubbed tank again and performed a 15% wc.
Moved hermits out of tank in order to stock up on a better CUC (hermits keep eating all the snails)
Tested nitrates and phosphates. Here are the results............

Salifert phosphate test kit results

API kit. Holding the test tube against the color chart

Same test. Holding the test tube away from the color chart

Somebody help!!!!!!

I have been using the Salifert brand phosphate test for a year. Recently upgraded to the Hanna ULR phosphorus tester. My Salifert test always showed 0 phosphate, so never used media that targets phosphate. I had a bit of nuisance algae on my rocks and taking over my sump. Hanna checkers showed .125 ppm phosphate in my water, was very surprised at the readings from the two test kits. Started using media to bring my phosphate to .03-.01 ppm 0n the Hanna tester and all my algae issues are gone. Algae needs phosphates to thrive. I was finally able to bring my nitrates up as well without fear of massive algae bloom.

 

[brandon429]

Actual work being done
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/

The fact you'd access your rock for direct kill is awesome, you're leaving out two things: the test model and the kill step. We could have your tank fixed fast, you're doing 90% of what's required just missing those two is causing your growback. The thread shows examples, several, all nanos can be fixed it's only large tanks that are hard.

 

[DHill6]

Red Sea Reefer 170...with newer Tonga Branch. I have been battling GHA, while I agree with some of the above I chose to go as natural as possible in this tank. I run a Nyos 120 skimmer, batting in a cup, not sock which I throw out daily. I've added 5 orange chestnut snails which have mowed it down considerably. I have an urchin who occasionally goes after it. Red banded Trochius snails clean the branch after the hair algae has been mowed. I've just added a Santa Monica drop to the sump, hopefully the GHA will eventually like it's new home inside the scrubber. I chose this over cheato because I don't like the light spill. This small footprint scrubber fit easily into the sump, no red light spillage. I had a cheato reactor a few years back, I also didn't like the upkeep of that, or the possibility of a flood, couldn't keep the cheato alive.

 

[DHill6]

Red Sea Reefer 170...with newer Tonga Branch. I have been battling GHA, while I agree with some of the above I chose to go as natural as possible in this tank. I run a Nyos 120 skimmer, batting in a cup, not sock which I throw out daily. I've added 5 orange chestnut snails which have mowed it down considerably. I have an urchin who occasionally goes after it. Red banded Trochius snails clean the branch after the hair algae has been mowed. I've just added a Santa Monica drop to the sump, hopefully the GHA will eventually like it's new home inside the scrubber. I chose this over cheato because I don't like the light spill. This small footprint scrubber fit easily into the sump, no red light spillage. I had a cheato reactor a few years back, I also didn't like the upkeep of that, or the possibility of a flood, couldn't keep the cheato alive.

 

[DHill6]

I guess I should've signed in first to avoid that double post. strange

 

[Gdesquire]

I would remove the ceramic rings over a 14 day period. My experience is that they are nitrate factories. Clean the filter sox thoroughly every 2nd day. Keep manually removing the algae by hand. If you have a sand bed vacuum it every 3 days and replace 5 percent of your water each time you vacuum. Make sure that your replacement water has 0 TDS and utilize a DI filter.

 

[Gdesquire]

I would remove the ceramic rings over a 14 day period. My experience is that they are nitrate factories. Clean the filter sox thoroughly every 2nd day. Keep manually removing the algae by hand. If you have a sand bed vacuum it every 3 days and replace 5 percent of your water each time you vacuum. Make sure that your replacement water has 0 TDS and utilize a DI filter.

 

[navathehutt]

Have you tried the ultra low phosphorous hannah one ? that is pretty accurate. Hair Algae is super easy to remove when your phosphates are low it peels off in clumps.