I have no experience with other methods, but lights out, good feeding, low stress... mine typically recovered within 3 days. I think it takes strong, healthy enough fish, and mild outbreak to be successful by nature.
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I know i figured it out.I meant that cycling in qt is very quick if you insert some non binding media and biospira.
It's just ick.. why even consider the nuclear option?or break down and start over?
Given that the OP does not yet have a QT setup, I would guess their tank is fairly new. Depending how established the tank is the "nuclear option" (as you called it) may be a better option than going fallow and dealing with the issues that can cause.It's just ick.. why even consider the nuclear option?
I think if you have a tank long enough and this hobby, You're going to have a parasite at some point you need to remediate. If tearing down and restarting is the only option, there's something wrong there.
People go fallow successfully all the time.
Why would restarting ( which would include setting up a quarantine tank for all the new fish coming in after) be a better option than learning the process of dealing with what's going on now and following through with it?Given that the OP does not yet have a QT setup, I would guess their tank is fairly new. Depending how established the tank is the "nuclear option" (as you called) it may be a better option than going fallow and dealing with the issues that can cause.
We don't know if there are any other animals in the tank or not. Personally I wouldn't bring in any more livestock until the main tank is clear of ich. A tank can be broken down and restarted in far less than 74 days. I guess what I'm saying is the OP needs to pick their battles based on their situation.Why would restarting ( which would include setting up a quarantine tank for all the new fish coming in after) be a better option than learning the process of dealing with what's going on now and following through with it?
Restarting because ick Just showed up seems like the more expensive option, lazier option, and one that leaves a great learning experience (That will be needed if you stick with this long enough) on the table.
Not trying to be argumentative but do not see the benefit at all.
There's great advice already here, but I'll just throw in my two-cents for prosperity's sake...
If the fish was in your tank with ich, you more than likely have it in your system. I know ich is in my system but don't worry about. The last fish I added (clown), about 6 months ago, got full blown ich in two days. I didn't bother setting up my QT because the stress of isolation and medication is just as bad as the ailment when it comes to ich. I also didn't stress about the other 12 fish in my tank either. As long as you have good/stable parameters, a good UV filter, good food, and most importantly a low-stress environment you will prevent ich from devastating a tank. I always thought of ich kind of like shingles, always in you but only comes out when stressed or immunosuppressed. I had multiple tangs (that I ended up giving away as they got bigger) full ich in my system and to this day I've never lost any fish to ich...carpet surfing is another story though....
This is something I'm having an internal struggle with right now. My tang has some white spots a few days ago which disappeared the next day. But all fish including the tang are acting normal, feeding normal etc. I almost feel like I shouldn't intervene.I agree.
I don’t QT, and likely never will. When the fish gets stressed, ich may show up again, but usually I’ve only ever seen it when adding new fish in the past. If I see ich present, I feed well and stay out of the tank until it’s gone (usually a day or two or a couple at most). If the fish is already stressed, catching it and transferring it to another tank may be enough to kill it; that’s four tank moves (wholesale, store, main, and QT) and shipping in a very short period.
My advise is if it’s in the tank already, leave it be, feed it well and stay out of the tank. Once it recovers, then decide if you want to implement a full quarantine process.
Whenever buying non-quarantined fish, assume ich is present; it’s not that big of a deal.
I wouldn’t do anything. As long as your tank is healthy, I doubt you’ll see it again unless you majorly disturb the tank (re-aquascape).This is something I'm having an internal struggle with right now. My tang has some white spots a few days ago which disappeared the next day. But all fish including the tang are acting normal, feeding normal etc. I almost feel like I shouldn't intervene.
Think I’m gonna have to do this. Would adding a UV light help against the parasites and other nasties?It's just ick.. why even consider the nuclear option?
I think if you have a tank long enough and this hobby, You're going to have a parasite at some point you need to remediate. If tearing down and restarting is the only option, there's something wrong there.
People go fallow successfully all the time.
dang big time this the entire I’ve reefedI agree.
I don’t QT, and likely never will. When the fish gets stressed, ich may show up again, but usually I’ve only ever seen it when adding new fish in the past. If I see ich present, I feed well and stay out of the tank until it’s gone (usually a day or two or a couple at most). If the fish is already stressed, catching it and transferring it to another tank may be enough to kill it; that’s four tank moves (wholesale, store, main, and QT) and shipping in a very short period.
My advise is if it’s in the tank already, leave it be, feed it well and stay out of the tank. Once it recovers, then decide if you want to implement a full quarantine process.
Whenever buying non-quarantined fish, assume ich is present; it’s not that big of a deal.
I'm not going to give out names and stir the pot. But don't you need to cycle the qt first?
I feel the same way. If you don’t quarantine everything wet going into the tank, ich will show up eventually.Whenever buying non-quarantined fish, assume ich is present; it’s not that big of a deal.