Tanggirl12
Active Member
If any one is interested here is a run down of my QT technique and equipment.
40 breeder tank with egg crate lid
Hob filter for running carbon
Sponge filter with airstone
ATO
Small powerhead
Heater with electronic controller
Seachem Ammonia alert badge
Test kits for copper and ammonia
Refractometer
Meds/additives I have on hand.
Cupramine
Formalin, I've used rid ich which is formalin and malachite green
General cure (prazi and metro combo)
Methylene blue
Array of antibiotics
Furan2
Tri sulfa
Kanaplex or kanamycin
On fish arrival I float then drip acclimate, how long depends on the fish. Most fish are kept at a lower salinity than you keep your reef. I keep my QT at 1.022-23 so there won't be a huge difference. Do not add store water to your QT.
I inspect the fish thoroughly for disease, assess their condition. If I don't see anything I will observe and fatten them up prior to starting any meds. If nothing shows up after 1-2 weeks (depending how thin they were) I deworm them with three rounds of general cure, making sure they keep their appetite up. With this last batch I stopped at 2 doses due to my flame hawk not eating. He resumed his voracious appetite after med was pulled.
First week with this batch of fish, which consists of two snowbite clowns, a pair of blue throat triggers and a flame hawk, I had to do two water changes due to trace ammonia. I have done one other water change in the two months I've had them. First time using the sponge filter and it seems to be very efficient at harboring bacteria. Just use your best judgement on water changes, I feed 4-5 times a day, small meals and it is all eaten.
After the deworming I decided to use cupramine, sometimes I use hypo but these fish were very hardy. I give 1/4 of total dose every 1-2 days till level is up to recommended 0.5. As you can see, I don't rush anything. One thing I do different from the instructions is that I run copper for a minimum of 30 days, not the 10-14 recommended. Some tomonts can last 28 days, I like to be sure and not have a few strays pop up later. After the 30 days is up, if uneventful, I pull the cupramine with carbon and do a water change. I observe fish for 2 more weeks before adding to DT.
I have had to change treatments midstream due to parasites showing up that copper does not kill. Just be observant and be prepared with plenty of water and alternate forms of treatment. Don't mix hypo with copper either, it makes the copper more toxic to the fish.
I'm glad to say all of my fish survived and are very healthy and ready to move. This time. Lol some fish you just can't save.
Enjoy your hobby, keep them healthy and you and your fish stress free.
40 breeder tank with egg crate lid
Hob filter for running carbon
Sponge filter with airstone
ATO
Small powerhead
Heater with electronic controller
Seachem Ammonia alert badge
Test kits for copper and ammonia
Refractometer
Meds/additives I have on hand.
Cupramine
Formalin, I've used rid ich which is formalin and malachite green
General cure (prazi and metro combo)
Methylene blue
Array of antibiotics
Furan2
Tri sulfa
Kanaplex or kanamycin
On fish arrival I float then drip acclimate, how long depends on the fish. Most fish are kept at a lower salinity than you keep your reef. I keep my QT at 1.022-23 so there won't be a huge difference. Do not add store water to your QT.
I inspect the fish thoroughly for disease, assess their condition. If I don't see anything I will observe and fatten them up prior to starting any meds. If nothing shows up after 1-2 weeks (depending how thin they were) I deworm them with three rounds of general cure, making sure they keep their appetite up. With this last batch I stopped at 2 doses due to my flame hawk not eating. He resumed his voracious appetite after med was pulled.
First week with this batch of fish, which consists of two snowbite clowns, a pair of blue throat triggers and a flame hawk, I had to do two water changes due to trace ammonia. I have done one other water change in the two months I've had them. First time using the sponge filter and it seems to be very efficient at harboring bacteria. Just use your best judgement on water changes, I feed 4-5 times a day, small meals and it is all eaten.
After the deworming I decided to use cupramine, sometimes I use hypo but these fish were very hardy. I give 1/4 of total dose every 1-2 days till level is up to recommended 0.5. As you can see, I don't rush anything. One thing I do different from the instructions is that I run copper for a minimum of 30 days, not the 10-14 recommended. Some tomonts can last 28 days, I like to be sure and not have a few strays pop up later. After the 30 days is up, if uneventful, I pull the cupramine with carbon and do a water change. I observe fish for 2 more weeks before adding to DT.
I have had to change treatments midstream due to parasites showing up that copper does not kill. Just be observant and be prepared with plenty of water and alternate forms of treatment. Don't mix hypo with copper either, it makes the copper more toxic to the fish.
I'm glad to say all of my fish survived and are very healthy and ready to move. This time. Lol some fish you just can't save.
Enjoy your hobby, keep them healthy and you and your fish stress free.
