My Quarantine Woes....

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If anyone has been following any of my other posts you'll know my recent struggles. If not I'll share the short(ish) version.

I've been reefing for no less than 15 years. I've had my average trials and my successes. Today it seems like the losses are winning and I'm losing it!.

To start, I built an in wall 100gal reef that's running great. Has been from the time it was cycled! Had been running for a several months with no issues, great coral growth, awesome polyp extension, I mean I could't kill anything I put in there if I tried! So I decided I'd like to add a couple fish. Picked up 3 Lyretail Anthias from my LFS (which is the only place to shop within an hour drive). The next day I was down to 2. I figured that was fair as once and a while we lose one to stress or weak overall health. Par for the course, I'm OK. A couple weeks later I head back to my LFS to eye a Powder Brown Tang that they've had for quite some time now in one of their "big" tanks. He's good and fat, looks amazing, been eating good for weeks and just generally looks healthy. Pulled the trigger and told the owner to bag him up! Put him in my DT after acclimation and he's the king of tank. A couple days later I lose another anthia. Within a few more days the last one goes missing. Within that week the Tang is starting to show some signs of ICH but still eating like a pig and still very active. I've had ICH in my previous tanks for years so I know there is a chance that he'll build up an immunity toward it and pull through. I also know that these particular tangs are prone to show signs of stress in the presence of the ICH parasites. However, plenty of fellow reefers have had successful mixed reef tanks with evidence of ICH for years. To bring this part of the story to a close I'm not one of those guys. Although he was doing good and looked like he was going to pull through I went out of town for a couple days and came back to find him absolutely struggling but had no way of getting to him without destroying everything in my tank. By the end of the day he had passed and I swore off ever putting anything in my tank without a full blown quarantine with treatment.

So I started cruising the Drygoods For Sale forum as well as reading thread after thread after thread after thread on Quarantine builds, Fish disease, Treatment regimes, Medication recommendations as well as failures and successes of each. I Built what I feel is a pretty solid Bare Bottom QT/Hos tank with a 20gal tall (petco $1 per gal sale). Installed a double overflow so I could use one for some Marine Pure Bio-Sheres (that I seeded in my DT sump during the build). Drilled the tank for a Herbie style overflow, added a sump with a heater, Tunze skimmer, Tunze ATO, Airstone for extra aeration and plumbed the Iwaki return through a 1/3 HP chiller @ ~1200 gph return. I mean seriously I am not messing around when I say I wanted to make sure I never lose another fish. Ran this QT empty for about a month just to be sure everything was solid. NO issues. Bought some peppermint shrimp to put in my tank and left them there for a few weeks, PERFECT. They went into the DT / Fuge. Tested all the parameters and everything looked good. Did monthly WC on it, still good. Figured it was time to add some fish. Went to my LFS and special ordered a small Copperband Butterfly, 3 Vanderbilt Chromis, a smaller medium sized Powder Blue tang and bought a Melanurus Wrasse that had been at the LFS eating well for weeks. Everything showed up the next afternoon but because I had to work I made arrangements to pick them up the following morning first thing. From the first day one of the Chromis' wasn't quite right but I blamed poor heath prior to shipping and lost him within a couple days. The following day I lost the Butterfly quite abruptly without showing any signs of issues (again, possibly poor health and it never did eat while I observed it) . On day three I attempt to start prazipro as up until now the fish were only being observed with nothing added to the tank. I notice another of the Chromis' not looking good and immediately start an emergency ID thread in hopes of not losing any more fish. Issue was ID'd pretty quickly as Uronema Marinum a tough one and one that hits chromis particularly hard. I was advised to abandon Prazipro, FW bathe the fish and start Metronidazole right away. I chose to treat using Metroplex so I adopted the recommended dosage of once every 2 days for 1o days. I also chose to treat feedings with metroplex/focus in order to treat internal parasites.

So day 1 of treatment was fairly uneventful.

Day 2 I lost the second chromis and the 3rd is now showing minor symptoms. Ammonia is starting to creep up so I did a 30% WC and dosed the second round of Metro.

Day 3 Chromis is declining.

Day 4 Chromis is gone all that's left is the Wrasse and PB Tang. Ammonia is present but low so I opt to leave it for now and Dose round 3

Day 5 seems to be fine. Both fish fine and are eating.

Day 6 the Wrasse stops eating and is starting to not be as active. Thinking it may be Ammonia again although I'm not sure why it keeps creeping up, I do another 30% WC and throw a poly-filter in the sump for 24hrs

Day 7 Wrasse has pretty much given up. Still alive, laying upside down on the tank bottom, rapid labored breathing but not attempting to swim unless I touch it or net it. So I figured I'd finish up with the 4th round of Metro hoping that the Tang will make it through so I can proceed with Prazi and eventually Copper treatment before transfer to the DT.

At this point I am so INCREDIBLY Discouraged and I'm not sure why I'm trying so hard just to kill these beautiful fish. Why do I not just put them in the DT and allow them to live as long as possible without all of the medications and what I can only feel like what must be torture. Why is my Ammonia possibly rising to toxic levels when I should have more than enough Bio-media for this size tank. Am I just destine to do daily water changes matching the level of medication on each one? I can't imagine the amount of copper and salt I will have to use for a 30 day treatment and then to do that with each fish I bring in? There must be something I'm missing! There is no way I misjudged so badly that I'm killing these fish off at this rate. Does anyone see where this all went off the rails? Man I'm lost

Rant over...... Give me some hope please
 

Big G

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Sorry for your losses. Had a similar occurrence a couple of months ago. The consensus was that it probably was velvet. Apparently many wholesalers are treating their livestock with sub therapeutic levels of copper to keep losses down and keep the fish looking good for sale. When those fish make it out of the wholesalers' tanks and are released into our tanks the velvet comes roaring back rapidly attacking the gills of the weakest fish first. So one by one your fish die quickly without obvious outward symptoms but with severe internal damage. Here's the thread. Hope it helps.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/suddenly-sick-tang.329894/
 

GoldeneyeRet

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I think you are to be commended on being so dedicated to making this work for the fish.

The issue is you are going too fast. Way too many fish to qt in a 20 gallon tank and the biofilter can't handle the load. Also, CBB and pbt are tough fish, you should hone your skills and methods before attempting them.

Keep at it, don't give up.
 

Deinonych

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I think you are to be commended on being so dedicated to making this work for the fish.

The issue is you are going too fast. Way too many fish to qt in a 20 gallon tank and the biofilter can't handle the load. Also, CBB and pbt are tough fish, you should hone your skills and methods before attempting them.

Keep at it, don't give up.

Agree 100%. As the saying goes, "nothing good happens fast in this hobby."

We all want a tank full of healthy, active fish. However, it really is best to quarantine 1 fish at a time. You might be able to get away with 2 fish at a time, but I've had the best success with only one at a time. The more fish in QT, the higher the risk of introducing a pathogen that will affect all of the inhabitants (which you observed first hand, unfortunately). I agree the likely cause of death was velvet, as it kills very quickly.

For what it's worth, below is my roughly 6-week QT protocol. It has worked consistently well for me:
  1. Introduce fish to QT
  2. Allow fish to settle in for at least a week, but usually two
  3. Start Tank Transfer Method for ich prevention; dose Prazipro on the first and third transfers (day 1 and day 7)
  4. Observe for at least another two weeks post TTM to ensure there are no pathogens like velvet or brook
  5. Transfer to DT
  6. Enjoy the new addition
I also do 30% water changes and change out filter floss every 3-4 days to keep water quality high.

Good luck to you, and don't give up!
 

Daltrey

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Tangs are ich magnets. A Copperband Butterfly probably isn’t such a great fish to start out with either. Start with something like a pair of clownfish. These fish are invincible and you probably couldn’t kill one if you tried.

I also agree with one or two fish in a 20 quarantine. Make sure and offer several types of food to feed including frozen foods and feed several small portions a day while they are in qt.

Here is my 40 breeder qt.

20171130_131203.jpg


20171123_173348.jpg
 
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I think you are to be commended on being so dedicated to making this work for the fish.

The issue is you are going too fast. Way too many fish to qt in a 20 gallon tank and the biofilter can't handle the load. Also, CBB and pbt are tough fish, you should hone your skills and methods before attempting them.

Keep at it, don't give up.

Thanks everyone for the input. I will admit I jumped the gun on putting the 6 fish in the QT at the same time. That WILL NOT be something I do again. But because all the fish were smaller or very small I thought I may be able to keep up with water changes and changing out the filter socks to keep the waste levels at bay. I will take blame there. Keep in mind however I've had no less than 5 pretty successful tanks while in the hobby for the last 15 or so years only giving them up because I moved or upgraded. I've successfully housed a Lieutenant Tang, Orange shoulder Tang, Spot Face Surgeonfish and Mandarins in the past without issue and all living quite long lives. While they are challenging along with the Copperband I'm not completely new and I would't have attempted them if I didn't honestly feel I could provide them a great environment to live. Because I'm hoping this will be my last tank (the reason I built it into the wall of the house I will probably retire in) I wanted the have fish that you do not generically see in the average tank. I also did not want to start with clowns due to their territorial behavior if I even add any. I chose to start QT all fish so that they can live as full of a life as possible and because I have never had so many losses within such a short time I knew there was something wrong with my plan.

After reading what has been working and not working across the board I came up with what seems like what will work best given my schedule, time and space available etc.

FW bath

Into Hospital/Observation tank

48 hrs observation

48 hr Prazipro

25% WC / 5 day observation

2nd 48 hr Prazipro

25% WC + carbon / 5 day observation

30 day Cuprion Ionic Copper Treatment

14 day Cuprisorb & Poly-Filter / Observation

Transfer to DT if all is well



With that being said does anyone have any thoughts on if it would be better to run the copper treatment first in light of the obvious Velvet issues that seem to be rampant? I'm struggling with the TTM only because I don't know if I can keep up with the time schedule of the transfers, decontamination and WC on the 2 tanks.
 
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Big G

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With the fairly recent upsurge of velvet, you may want to consider using the copper first, then later the Prazi. Change is difficult but the conditions have changed with the rampant velvet problem. Of course every tank, fish, water conditions are different. Hope this helps. Cheers!
 

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I personally don't like to run copper unless velvet is suspected. Copper can be pretty hard on fish, and it doesn't always work for ich (which is why I prefer TTM for ich prevention). Velvet symptoms will usually show up within 30 days, IME.
 
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Dosed the Copper this morning. The only fish left is the PB that started showing some signs of velvet yesterday. Looked very much like ich at first but made the fish look dirty later in the day. It was swimming erratically but still grazing on the Algae sheet on the clip. Because I already had Prazi in the tank I wanted to run carbon and Poly-Filters overnight to try to pull out as much as I could. I Did a 50% WC first thing this morning and Dosed the copper right after a FW Bath. Here's hoping he makes it. So far he's looking pretty good. :)
 

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as @Humblefish says there is a learning curve. I have lost a lot of fish my first go around in qt. However when I had a marine velvet emergency, I was able to keep my purple tang, 2 clowns and a basslet in my 13.5 gallons for 6 weeks without killing them. I know it was small but I had to take them out of one of my tank and the other was in fallow. Not ideal. I hope it gets better.
 

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If it makes you feel any better:

I ordered 6 dispar anthias, a Carpenter's flasher wrasse, and a tail spot blenny. All fish arrived from LA looking to be in good shape. The 6 anthias went into a 20gal QT while the wrasse and blenny went into a 10gal QT. Ammonia was never an issue based off of the alert badge. Thought it might be but it never changed color.

Day 1 no issues - All fish eating
Day 2 no issues - All fish eating

Great, time to start copper!

Applied dose over 3 days to both tanks.
2 days after therapeutic level reached an anthias has red streaks all over it and died before I could get a bath ready for it. Also noticed another anthias flashing. Gave FW bath to remaining anthias. Dosed general cure.
3 days later woke up to 3 more dead anthias. All had been swimming fine and eating the entire time. Still suspected bacteria infection. Start Furan 2 and Kanaplex.
Next day, another dead anthias.
Keep up the furan 2, kanaplex, and metro with water changes thrown in for good measure and the last one died 8 days later.

Wrasse and blenny are doing great and almost ready for the DT though.

I don't know if the 6 of them in a 20gal was a reason or not though I doubt it. I do wonder if I started copper too soon.

I'll keep trying to do it the right way, but likely on a smaller scale. It's just with anthias, you're supposed to add them all at once. May pick up a larger QT when Petco has their next $1/gal sale specifically for anthias.
 
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If it makes you feel any better:

I ordered 6 dispar anthias, a Carpenter's flasher wrasse, and a tail spot blenny. All fish arrived from LA looking to be in good shape. The 6 anthias went into a 20gal QT while the wrasse and blenny went into a 10gal QT. Ammonia was never an issue based off of the alert badge. Thought it might be but it never changed color.

Day 1 no issues - All fish eating
Day 2 no issues - All fish eating

Great, time to start copper!

Applied dose over 3 days to both tanks.
2 days after therapeutic level reached an anthias has red streaks all over it and died before I could get a bath ready for it. Also noticed another anthias flashing. Gave FW bath to remaining anthias. Dosed general cure.
3 days later woke up to 3 more dead anthias. All had been swimming fine and eating the entire time. Still suspected bacteria infection. Start Furan 2 and Kanaplex.
Next day, another dead anthias.
Keep up the furan 2, kanaplex, and metro with water changes thrown in for good measure and the last one died 8 days later.

Wrasse and blenny are doing great and almost ready for the DT though.

I don't know if the 6 of them in a 20gal was a reason or not though I doubt it. I do wonder if I started copper too soon.

I'll keep trying to do it the right way, but likely on a smaller scale. It's just with anthias, you're supposed to add them all at once. May pick up a larger QT when Petco has their next $1/gal sale specifically for anthias.


It doesn't make me feel better as I hate to see others struggle as I have but I feel your pain. I'm definitely only bringing in a couple fish at a time now. There are just so many unknowns that it's hard to know what to treat and when. Experience I suspect will eventually kick in. Sorry for your losses.
 

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It doesn't make me feel better as I hate to see others struggle as I have but I feel your pain. I'm definitely only bringing in a couple fish at a time now. There are just so many unknowns that it's hard to know what to treat and when. Experience I suspect will eventually kick in. Sorry for your losses.

Same to you. In the mean time, I need to start testing out my LFS' anyway. From what I understand, none of them QT, but at least I can find out how long they've had a fish and watch it eat.
 
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A little less than 12 hours later and the PB Tank is breathing rapidly and not swimming around as much as it was earlier. I don't know if this is normal or if there is another issue. Is it too soon for another FW bath? My Copper levels are .5 right on the money. I'm going to start making up some salt water in case I have to do another water change. Any Thoughts? @Humblefish ... I hate to bother you but you seem to have reliable input.
 

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A little less than 12 hours later and the PB Tank is breathing rapidly and not swimming around as much as it was earlier. I don't know if this is normal or if there is another issue. Is it too soon for another FW bath? My Copper levels are .5 right on the money. I'm going to start making up some salt water in case I have to do another water change. Any Thoughts? @Humblefish ... I hate to bother you but you seem to have reliable input.

A FW dip will force 80-90% of the trophonts to drop off, so that is probably your best option.

Do you have formalin or acriflavine?

The protocol I've used to save the most fish with velvet is here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437
 
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A FW dip will force 80-90% of the trophonts to drop off, so that is probably your best option.

Do you have formalin or acriflavine?

The protocol I've used to save the most fish with velvet is here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437

I do have some formalin I keep as a last resort (am I there now?) because I'm worried about the Cancer Risk for the fish. I FW dipped this morning about 0800 so it's been less than 24 hours. The Tang seems to be swimming ok between taking breaks in the PVC pipe. After posting I starting digging hard to find the therapeutic dosage for Cuprion. Unfortunately Brightwell seems to want to keep it some kind of secret. While it does say one drop raises Copper ~.20ppm per gal it doesn't actually say what the target dosage is. If it is in fact 0.2 like I've been seeing sporadically then I'm about 2x over. I just dropped some Poly-Filters to try to bring it down. Mixing WC water as I type. Should I move forward with a Formalin Bath?
 

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Tangs are ich magnets. A Copperband Butterfly probably isn’t such a great fish to start out with either. Start with something like a pair of clownfish. These fish are invincible and you probably couldn’t kill one if you tried.

I also agree with one or two fish in a 20 quarantine. Make sure and offer several types of food to feed including frozen foods and feed several small portions a day while they are in qt.

Here is my 40 breeder qt.

20171130_131203.jpg


20171123_173348.jpg

Where did you buy your stand from?
 

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