My rimless 57 gal oceanic illuminata build.

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Apet66

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Didn't do very much to it today. Met with Gmoney and planned out my sump and algae scrubber. Thanks Mike!!! Gotta wait till my skimmer and sockit and return pump gets here so I can give Kevin the dimensions for the baffles. Then I'll be off to pick up the plumbing. Thank you all for your advice!
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I got the plumbing figured out, took me all day. All I have left is to cut the slot for the screen in the pvc for the algae scrubber. Let me know what you think please.
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You need to add one more ball valve below the bulk head so you can direct flow to the scrubber also what the GPH rating on the pump.

The pump is rated at 819gph. I have a ball valve on the left of the T going to the scrubber. Is that ok?
 

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Yea but you need an other one. Cause if not when you try to control that valve you have now it just gonna force all the flow to the tank and not the scrubber.
 
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I don't have enough space for another ball valve above the T and the bulkhead. :mad:
 

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Im hijacking Tonys thread to show off his sump. I set it up to his specifications and I am by no means a professional.

He wanted a 2 baffle bubble trap and a single tall baffle on the other side for his scrubber

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kwandrsn

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Your very welcome bro, I just hope it is to your expectations. Figured it up with the tank ($22 after tax, petco), glass, silicone, rags, razor blades and sandpaper to smooth edges of glass ($15 tax exempt, lowes)....... grand total......
$37 for your sump
 
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You need to add one more ball valve below the bulk head so you can direct flow to the scrubber also what the GPH rating on the pump.

The pump is rated at 819gph. I have a ball valve on the left of the T going to the scrubber. Is that ok?

Yea but you need an other one. Cause if not when you try to control that valve you have now it just gonna force all the flow to the tank and not the scrubber.

I don't have enough space for another ball valve above the T and the bulkhead. :mad:

No he doesnt it will be fine. Water will flow out.the side just fine. This is how mine is and ive had my return feeding multiple reactors and scrubber this exact way. Once he opens that valve water will take the path of least resistants first which is sideways rather than up.
 

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Tony i would remove the metal clamps and use zip ties u can pull then real tight with some pliers they wont leak or come free easily. Also make sure u have room for a light on both sides of the scrubber for best performance. Id recomend the metal reflectors like you saw on mine ran with 23w or 26w cfl. I use these from walmart and they work the best ive tried and ive tried a lot of brands including led floodlightts. Only lights ive seen work better are 3w red/blue led combo.

uploadfromtaptalk1373518576165.jpg
 
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Tony i would remove the metal clamps and use zip ties u can pull then real tight with some pliers they wont leak or come free easily. Also make sure u have room for a light on both sides of the scrubber for best performance. Id recomend the metal reflectors like you saw on mine ran with 23w or 26w cfl. I use these from walmart and they work the best ive tried and ive tried a lot of brands including led floodlightts. Only lights ive seen work better are 3w red/blue led combo.

uploadfromtaptalk1373518576165.jpg

I should have just enough room for the lights. I hope. I haven't taken all the stainless hose clamps off yet, just a couple. I'll be putting zip ties on all the fittings. Gotta pull it apart and give it all a vinegar bath. I'll put the acrylic splash box around the scrubber tomorrow, time permitting. Then I can get an idea how much room I have left.
Thank you everyone! My brain hurts from trying to figure out that plumbing.
 
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I got the scrubber screen hung and measured. It will have 9.5" across and 10.5" top to bottom where it will contact the water. I'll have 7" clearance on the outside (left) for a light and plenty of room on the inside (right) for the other light.
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