Nasty case of red cyano and my battle

nervousmonkey

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... and you verified it's cyano with hydrogen peroxide? In my experience, Chemiclean does not work against cyano. But it works great against spirulina... which to the naked eye can look absolutely identical to cyano. Only being able to distinguish them apart under a microscope. I had a problem with cyano during my tank cycle. I wiped it out with a hydrogen peroxide dosing regiment. A couple of weeks later it came back. So I dosed again with hydrogen peroxide and it didn't touch it. I finally figured out that it was most likely spirulina... so I tried Chemiclean and it wiped it out in two days.
Wow, interesting Toby! I have had great success with what I thought was cyano, until now, but maybe it was spirulina. In retrospect, I bet it was spirulina, as I dosed erythromycin, which should wipe out cyano, and it didn't work. ChemiClean, which I had purchased 6 months prior, then never used it for fear of adding chemicals, worked great, but now I'm thinking I may need a microscope. How do you distinguish them and what was your H2O2 regimen?
 

nervousmonkey

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Jeffery, where did you get the liquid? I've never seen that one before. Does it state that it "does not contain erythromycin succinate"?

I agree that cyano issues, in my experience, come when I have an imbalance of PO4 to NO3. I've had it where my PO4 was dropping faster than my NO3, but mostly when I get elevated PO4 but NO3 stay the same, so I pulled Purigen, which was definitely keeping NO3 in check, and added the Brightwell PO4 reducer, Phosphate-R, which seems to work well, reminds me of Purigen, just beads of what appears to be GFO... Anyway, that has worked to keep cyano at bay, as that stuff really drops the PO4 pretty well. Also allows me to feed frozen to my anthia and chromis atripectoralis, which need multiple feedings/day as well.
If your PO4 is high, you could try lanthanum chloride; that stuff will drop PO4 levels immediately, but you have to filter out the particulate matter with a 10 micron sock, or a lanthanum reactor, or a drip of lantanum, almost like dosing it slowly.
Let us know what happens to the cyano for sure, and also what you think caused it. Everyone wants to know the triggers for why cyano appears, or in Salty's case, why it doesn't appear. :confused::confused::confused:
 
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jsker

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Jeffery, where did you get the liquid? I've never seen that one before. Does it state that it "does not contain erythromycin succinate"?

I agree that cyano issues, in my experience, come when I have an imbalance of PO4 to NO3. I've had it where my PO4 was dropping faster than my NO3, but mostly when I get elevated PO4 but NO3 stay the same, so I pulled Purigen, which was definitely keeping NO3 in check, and added the Brightwell PO4 reducer, Phosphate-R, which seems to work well, reminds me of Purigen, just beads of what appears to be GFO... Anyway, that has worked to keep cyano at bay, as that stuff really drops the PO4 pretty well. Also allows me to feed frozen to my anthia and chromis atripectoralis, which need multiple feedings/day as well.
If your PO4 is high, you could try lanthanum chloride; that stuff will drop PO4 levels immediately, but you have to filter out the particulate matter with a 10 micron sock, or a lanthanum reactor, or a drip of lantanum, almost like dosing it slowly.
Let us know what happens to the cyano for sure, and also what you think caused it. Everyone wants to know the triggers for why cyano appears, or in Salty's case, why it doesn't appear. :confused::confused::confused:
Thank you Lloyd. I have used lanthanum chloride in the past with great success, in fact I have a new bottle on my desk right now. I agree, that I have a imbalance. Im drawing my 20% water for my water change. I will test for nutrients just before I do the water change to get a better number.
 
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Jeffery, where did you get the liquid? I've never seen that one before. Does it state that it "does not contain erythromycin succinate"?

I agree that cyano issues, in my experience, come when I have an imbalance of PO4 to NO3. I've had it where my PO4 was dropping faster than my NO3, but mostly when I get elevated PO4 but NO3 stay the same, so I pulled Purigen, which was definitely keeping NO3 in check, and added the Brightwell PO4 reducer, Phosphate-R, which seems to work well, reminds me of Purigen, just beads of what appears to be GFO... Anyway, that has worked to keep cyano at bay, as that stuff really drops the PO4 pretty well. Also allows me to feed frozen to my anthia and chromis atripectoralis, which need multiple feedings/day as well.
If your PO4 is high, you could try lanthanum chloride; that stuff will drop PO4 levels immediately, but you have to filter out the particulate matter with a 10 micron sock, or a lanthanum reactor, or a drip of lantanum, almost like dosing it slowly.
Let us know what happens to the cyano for sure, and also what you think caused it. Everyone wants to know the triggers for why cyano appears, or in Salty's case, why it doesn't appear. :confused::confused::confused:
Here is a link to the products are used. Link
 

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what the heck is fueling it?
Carbon dosing fuels cyano and I've read that some strains can produce their own nitrates.

This is why I found a method for my reef to keep phos. and nitrates in check without carbon dosing. :)
 

nervousmonkey

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Carbon dosing fuels cyano and I've read that some strains can produce their own nitrates.

This is why I found a method for my reef to keep phos. and nitrates in check without carbon dosing. :)
Yeah, I have found that no matter the carbon source, it always triggers cyano, esp. with a N/P imbalance. Good point man, carbon is like adding nitrous to a gasoline mixture. It always ignites. Even with relatively benign carbon sources, such as Brightwell's Reef BioFuel, it makes cyano go crazy. When I stop dosing anything with carbon, the cyano disappears.
 

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When I stop dosing anything with carbon, the cyano disappears.
If you want to see a big cyano explosion then do about a 50% water change with TM Bio Actif salt mix.
Been there and done that. :(
 
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jsker

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Thank you all for the input. I am going forward with another treatment after I do a %20 water change with a substrate vacuum job. Then I will see where I am at:)
 

reeferfoxx

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FWIW My po4 is constant at 0.02. If I keep my No3 between 2 and 5ppm I dont have cyano growth. If it falls short of 2, I see cyano. Although I have an AIO which is similar to a sump, if I keep it spotless(sometimes difficult) I see a delay in cyano growth(if no3 falls short of 2).
 

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Thank you all for the input. I am going forward with another treatment after I do a %20 water change with a substrate vacuum job. Then I will see where I am at:)
jsker,
Your on your way and have fun keeping your filter socks clean. :)

~ Freddie
 
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jsker

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Just finished %20 water change and second dose.
 
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jsker

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To report back, after the seconed dose I have traces still in the tank, and I will treat again this weekend.

My phosphates were at .08 yesterday and I dosed lanthanum chloride and I will test later on today. Nitrates are at .04
 
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jsker

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Hit the cyan again this evening.
 

Rick.45cal

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My experience is it definitely favors low Nitrate readings and generally if you are carbon dosing it will favor either vinegar or alcohol so if you change up your carbon source it during the process it may just be the 1-2 punch you need.

I think cyano and spirulina occupy such a similar niche that there is almost always both present so when you get one on the run the other quickly takes it's place. We are dealing with some of the original colonizers of earth, these guys are the epitome of resiliant (fortunately for all life on earth)
 

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