Need advice on Nitrate and Phos

[markushio40b]

Hey Reefers,

Been having an ongoing battle with high Nitrates and Phosphates. When testing today, Nitrates were at 63.9 and Phosphates were at 1.65. I dosed 10ml of NoPox as this has helped reduce both in the past, but they just rise back up again within a week. All other parameters are fine with very good growth on my leathers, LPS, and SPS.

I currently have a refugium that has Chaeto and Dragons Breath, a filter roller, and 2 bags of Seachem Purigen in my sump. I run my skimmer 24/7 and need to empty the cup once a week.

Feeding is twice a day with Vitalis Flakes in the morning, and frozen brine in the afternoon with the occasional sheet of nori. I also add AB+ every 3 days and dose Live Photo daily in the mornings.

No issues with algae or dinos. Sand is clean and white, rocks are clean, and I even have coraline algae growth. Only real algae growth is on the glass, but it’s minimal.

Livestock consists of 1 Maroon, 1 Foxface, 1 Purple Tang, 1 Mandarin, 1 Scarlet Hawkfish, 1 Sixline Wrasse, and 3 Green Chromis.

60 gallon mixed reef with 20 gallon sump.

Cal - 450
Alk - 8.7
Mag - 1310
PH - 8.0
Nitrate - 63.9
Phos - 1.65

I also test twice a week with all Hanna Checkers. As this system was a tank transfer from my old 30gal that was running for 10 months, I’m just trying to get my parameters consistent with testing. Everything falls in line except for my Nitrates and Phos. Although I guess you could say my Nitrates are consistently over 50ppm lol

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

More NOPOX, and maybe a phosphate binder (lanthanum, GFO) could be solutions, as might be growing algae in a refugium.

This is my generic recommendation:

Randy’s Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges

Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges by Randy Holmes-Farley Almost nothing in the world of reef aquarium chemistry causes as much discussion as selecting and maintaining ranges for nitrate and phosphate. Some aquarists want low targets, some want...

www.reef2reef.com

4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:

• Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
• Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
• Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
• Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up.

 

[KrisReef]

I would let it ride if things are going well.

Rich Ross - Home Tank - guess the phosphate

This tank was built before r2r, here is a link to some links about the build. http://packedhead.net/home-reef/ Current test results: 03-17-2017 Ammonia (NH3-4) Good 0 0.000 - 0.050 mg/L 03-17-2017 Nitrite (NO2) Good 0.006 0.000 - 0.100 mg/L 03-17-2017 Phosphate...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[GHOSTLY]

I was in a similar issue a month ish ago with my 20g.
Original:
Po3 50+
Po4 .7
-I started with carbon dosing using miami reefs (rest in peace) chart
I then did a 25% wc at least once a week
- I did feed heavy on reef roids so I cut back
-religiously cleaned mechanical media at least once a week

Over time my nutrients went from 50+ and .7, yesterday it was almost undetectable nitrate so im cutting carbon down to 1/4th. Phosphate is still at .2 so I'll be running lower dosages of phosguard to avoid shocking the tank

 

[markushio40b]

More NOPOX, and maybe a phosphate binder (lanthanum, GFO) could be solutions, as might be growing algae in a refugium.

This is my generic recommendation:

Randy’s Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges

Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges by Randy Holmes-Farley Almost nothing in the world of reef aquarium chemistry causes as much discussion as selecting and maintaining ranges for nitrate and phosphate. Some aquarists want low targets, some want...

www.reef2reef.com

4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:

• Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
• Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
• Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
• Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up.

So should dose more NoPox today or wait until tomorrow after I test where the levels are at?

I have Reef Blueprint Remedi as well that I could dose today to help Bind nutrients

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

So should dose more NoPox today or wait until tomorrow after I test where the levels are at?

I have Reef Blueprint Remedi as well that I could dose today to help Bind nutrients

I don't think it matters.

Your nitrate is not a big problem, IMO. Its not much above my target range. I'm more concerned about the phosphate, although I am not certain it is actually a problem either.

 

[rishma]

NOPOX and similar carbon dosing is best dosed daily, consistently. You can adjust your daily dose volume up or down if you want more or less nutrient reduction. From the way I read your posts, it seemed like you were using it as a one time dose? If so, you’ll get a more sustainable impact if you continue dosing daily at the beginning of the light cycle.

 

[Luminous74]

I’d check the flow – make sure detritus and food actually reach the roller filter. As corals grow, dead spots can form where waste builds up and turns into NO3/PO4.
Feed a bit lighter or switch to Mysis instead of Artemia — it has a better N:P balance.
Dose carbon in small, steady amounts and increase slowly until NO3 and PO4 start to stabilize.

 

[markushio40b]

NOPOX and similar carbon dosing is best dosed daily, consistently. You can adjust your daily dose volume up or down if you want more or less nutrient reduction. From the way I read your posts, it seemed like you were using it as a one time dose? If so, you’ll get a more sustainable impact if you continue dosing daily at the beginning of the light cycle.

Tested again today and got 1.58 Phosphate and 63.3 Nitrate. So definitely went down a little after dosing the 10ml of NoPox. Dosed another 15ml after testing and will check again tomorrow.

Will continue to dose the NoPox daily for now till I can get at least the Phosphate to a manageable level.

 

[markushio40b]

I’d check the flow – make sure detritus and food actually reach the roller filter. As corals grow, dead spots can form where waste builds up and turns into NO3/PO4.
Feed a bit lighter or switch to Mysis instead of Artemia — it has a better N:P balance.
Dose carbon in small, steady amounts and increase slowly until NO3 and PO4 start to stabilize.

Flow has definitely been something I’ve made a lot of adjustments to.

Currently running 2 MP10’s on a 3 foot tank with the pump on the left on the back glass and the pump on the right on the right side of the tank. Keep the right one on lagoon as it’s unable to connect to Mobius, and the left one is ReefCrest during the day, with Nutrient Transport for an hour before the lights come on and an hour before the lights turn off with lagoon overnight.

Have a very full Cuc consisting of different species of snails, conches, hermits, and a sand sifting star.

Been considering moving the left MP10 off the back and putting it on the side so both powerheads point at each other.

Thoughts?

 

[markushio40b]

View attachment 20251111_221459_CB44B048-29D9-48E7-BCCB-44783F4ABD31.mov