Need help diagnosing RO filter

[MattLynch]

Hi everyone. Im having issues with my ro filter and hoping yall can help me get to the bottom of it. It started with my di resin getting exhausted extremely quickly and so I bought a tds meter to check water coming from the unit pre di resin. Turns out my ro water was spitting out around 20tds, which I know is not good. Water going into the system is well water at 170tds. I replaced all of my filters in the unit including the membrane, after which my ro water came out at 5tds, and after the di resin it is now at 1, which is better at least, but I want to know why my filter is not operating efficiently so I bought a pressure gauge and found that my water pressure starts at 60psi, slowly drifts down to 20, then it audibly flushes a lot of water and the psi flicks back up to 60, only to slowly drift down again until the next flush. Clean water output flow increase's and decreases with the system pressure. I don't know much about how the system is suppose to work so I’m wondering if this is normal operation or if I need a booster pump. You can hear the flush and see the flick in the video. Everything is wet because I just put the pressure gauge on and I’m an idiot so I accidentally blasted water everywhere on accident. Please give me some pointers if you have any.

 

[MattLynch]

Heres the video on youtube because I dont think it wants to work here

Ro Pressure gauge

 

[danreef55]

Add a booster pump to bring the pressure to 78 https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-...=11029&indexName=brs_prod_m2_default_products

 

[MattLynch]

Add a booster pump to bring the pressure to 78 https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-...=11029&indexName=brs_prod_m2_default_products

Thats the answer I suspected. Should the ro system stay at at a static 78 all the time?

 

[danreef55]

Thats the answer I suspected. Should the ro system stay at at a static 78 all the time?

it depends upon the unit but generally you don't want it to go over 80 psi to avoid leaks. The units operate much more efficiently and effectively at higher pressure than the average home.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Hi everyone. Im having issues with my ro filter and hoping yall can help me get to the bottom of it. It started with my di resin getting exhausted extremely quickly and so I bought a tds meter to check water coming from the unit pre di resin. Turns out my ro water was spitting out around 20tds, which I know is not good. Water going into the system is well water at 170tds. I replaced all of my filters in the unit including the membrane, after which my ro water came out at 5tds, and after the di resin it is now at 1, which is better at least, but I want to know why my filter is not operating efficiently so I bought a pressure gauge and found that my water pressure starts at 60psi, slowly drifts down to 20, then it audibly flushes a lot of water and the psi flicks back up to 60, only to slowly drift down again until the next flush. Clean water output flow increase's and decreases with the system pressure. I don't know much about how the system is suppose to work so I’m wondering if this is normal operation or if I need a booster pump. You can hear the flush and see the flick in the video. Everything is wet because I just put the pressure gauge on and I’m an idiot so I accidentally blasted water everywhere on accident. Please give me some pointers if you have any.

No - drifting from 60 down to 20 is not normal. Something is wrong. A booster pump will not address this issue. Let's get the issue addressed before you think about adding a pump. Give us a call when you are in front of the system and we'll get it squared away.

Russ

 

[Snoopy 67]

Talk with Russ @ Buckeye & he will get you up & running. You also have a problem with being on well water. Another thing he will help you with.
GL

 

[fabutahoun]

I like this booster pump, I have been using 2 of these on 2 RO/DI systems for years
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-buddie-rodi-booster-pump-aquatic-life.html

 

[Jamie814]

I bought a pressure gauge and found that my water pressure starts at 60psi, slowly drifts down to 20

Not sure if you got this figured out or not but without knowing were that gauge is reading the pressure from everyone here is just guessing.

Is it placed on your incoming water line or somewhere between your RO unit filters?

Is your incoming water from your well drifting between 20 and 60? Because you're on a well the pressure will vary some, usually not more than 20psi though. Unless your well has a constant pressure system then it will stay very consistent. (most older homes do not)

Give @Buckeye Hydro a call they'll get it figured out for you!

To me it seems as if the line for the automatic shutoff valve or pressure switch on the unit is hooked up wrong, every time the unit builds up pressure the shutoff valve is turning it off until the pressure decreases enough as it weeps through the membrane, then it turns back on over and over again.

 

[MattLynch]

Not sure if you got this figured out or not but without knowing were that gauge is reading the pressure from everyone here is just guessing.

Is it placed on your incoming water line or somewhere between your RO unit filters?

Is your incoming water from your well drifting between 20 and 60? Because you're on a well the pressure will vary some, usually not more than 20psi though. Unless your well has a constant pressure system then it will stay very consistent. (most older homes do not)

Give @Buckeye Hydro a call they'll get it figured out for you!

To me it seems as if the line for the automatic shutoff valve or pressure switch on the unit is hooked up wrong, every time the unit builds up pressure the shutoff valve is turning it off until the pressure decreases enough as it weeps through the membrane, then it turns back on over and over again.

Its a headscratcher for sure. The pressure valve is on the line 2inches before the ro membrane, so I cant rule out that the pressure isnt fluctuating from the source directly. At this point I have replaced basically every component - the filters, membrane, auto shut off and the flow restrictor and it still does this the same as before I changed anything. Im on a well but the water goes from the well to a holding tank to off-gas and then we have a pump to get from the tank to the house so feed pressure should be constant but I guess I need another pressure gauge to make certain of that. At this point, if it’s not the feed pressure then I truly have no idea what could possibly be wrong. If feed pressure isn't the issue then I’ll give the filtration folks a call but at that point I may just buy a new unit because man I am getting sick of getting under the sink and dealing with it ya know

 

[Jamie814]

if it’s not the feed pressure then I truly have no idea what could possibly be wrong.

I would move your pressure gauge to the inlet or before the first sediment filter, this is the most critical spot to check pressure.
If feed pressure is consistent then the automatic pressure switch is not plumbed correctly or not working correctly.
THIS,

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

I like this booster pump, I have been using 2 of these on 2 RO/DI systems for years
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-buddie-rodi-booster-pump-aquatic-life.html

Not a fan of these. They take a number of common parts, that over time require maintenance, or adjustment, or replacement, and seal them all inside a plastic box.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Because your well pump is likely controlled by a pressure switch (which is common), then your feedwater pressure will vary (this is common). However, typical residential pressure switches are 30/50 or 40/60 psi. Meaning the pump would kick on at 30 (or 40) psi, and off at 50 (or 60) psi.

The 20 psi difference in the turn on and turn off pressure is typical.

This 20 psi range can be adjusted up or down - meaning for example if you have a 30/50 switch, with the turn of a screw you can adjust that to be a 35/55 switch, or a 40/60 switch. The 20 psi difference between on and off doesn't change.

With the turn of a different screw, you can also adjust to high pressure setting. So for example, if you have a 30/50 switch, you can adjust the 50 to 55 psi.

These adjustments are easy to make but to do it safely you have to be comfortable turning off the electrical circuit that goes through the switch and powers the pump. If you're handy, this is a no-brainer. If not, call in a service tech to handle it for you.

R.C. Worst is a well-known pump Distributor, and they have a great video on adjusting pressure switches. This video features a Square D brand switch which is very common in the US.

Russ

 

[MattLynch]

Update: Pressure gauge on the input line is showing that the pressure IS fluctuating from the source. Which means I may have replaced all my component redundantly, but oh well. Time for a booster pump I suppose.

 

[Jamie814]

Time for a booster pump I suppose.

If your well pressure is fluctuating 40 psi I would make a service call to your well company and have it looked at before adding a booster pump for the RO/DI.

You can get one of these and verify faucet pressure if your well pump or pressure tank does not have a gauge on it.
Amazon product ASIN B07T58JMTJ