Need help setting up your GHL Doser 2.1?

Discussion in 'GHL Advanced Technology' started by Vinny@GHLUSA, Aug 8, 2016.

  1. Vinny@GHLUSA

    Vinny@GHLUSA Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor Toys For Kids 2016

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    [​IMG]
    If you find yourself in need of more detailed instructions, we have just the thing for you!

    Our GHL Doser 2.1 manual will walk you through the features and functions of your GHL Doser 2 or Doser 2.1.

    In this guide, you will find instructions for:
    • Performing Doser 2.1 SA firmware updates
    • Performing Doser 2.1 Slave firmware updates
    • Setting up ATO and AWC functions
    • Wi-Fi Setup
    • Magnetic Stirrer Setup
    • Setting up myGHL
    • And more...
    Version 3 now includes:
    • Updated FAQ section
    • Additional troubleshooting topics
    • Shortcut links for easier navigation

    To download this guide, simply follow this link:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1kuwvwjmr8282gf/GHL Doser 2.1 Instruction Manual V3.pdf?dl=0

    If you have any questions regarding other features, you can always post on our GHL Support Forum or reach us by email.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2016
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  2. StikHedRon

    StikHedRon Well-Known Member R2R Supporter

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    Man, this is awesome. I love my doser 2 but boy was it tough to connect to the wifi network without any instructions!
     
  3. Vinny@GHLUSA

    Vinny@GHLUSA Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor Toys For Kids 2016

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    Version 3 of the GHL Doser 2 manual has been released. It is now called GHL Doser 2.1 manual. :)

    Details on changes are listed in the original post.
     
  4. TheReefKeeper

    TheReefKeeper Well-Known Member Partner Member

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    Sorry to post this here but I can't find your direct contact LOL

    This the same Marco from San Carlos in the Garage with all the Tanks?
     
  5. Marco@GHLUSA

    Marco@GHLUSA GHL Team R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    oh boy.... Yes, about 10 years ago. PM me.
     
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  6. TheReefKeeper

    TheReefKeeper Well-Known Member Partner Member

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    Haaa Knew it
     
  7. porter_painter

    porter_painter Member

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    Just a word of warning for anyone using a 2.1 doser - be sure to calibrate each pump before use.

    Although the default flow rate is shown as 60ml per minute in the software on the slowest setting, the highest flow rate that I could achieve with mine was 45ml per minute on fastest flow rate.

    Therefore if you are upgrading from an older GHL doser (as I was) you cannot assume similar flow rates.
     
  8. choss

    choss Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    did the old doser actually pump more per minute? I want to use one of these for AWC and I am wondering if it will hold up and can handle say 2 gallons a day.
     
  9. reefwiser

    reefwiser LMAS R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Article Contributor

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    I wouldn't use it for 2 gallons a day dosing. 1 gallons but 2 gallons would be pushing it.
     
  10. choss

    choss Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    So basically it feels like the GHL doser just isn't as reliable for AWC as maybe the Litermeter3 or similar option.
     
  11. reefwiser

    reefwiser LMAS R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Article Contributor

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    For smaller systems it is fine. You are dealing with a dosing pump. Generally all the hobby level pumps can handle a gallon a day. Once you get above that you are really starting to work the motor hard. I deal with these kind of pumps all day long in the food industry so I used a Stenner dual head pump. I am also looking past my current tank to a much larger tank that my wife will let me buy when I retire.:) My current Stenner is a 170mp4 which will do I think up to a 120 gallons a day. I am using it on a AIO Fusion 40 and it has been fun setting it up so it doesn't make a ATO go crazy. I had a Tunze ATO on the tank and had to take it off it went nuts every time the water change started. Pumping water into the tank too. Had to unplug it to stop it from lowering the salinity. I now use one of my GHL dosers open pumps as my ATO. This also allowed me to move the ATO water out to my garage instead of under the tank. I then used the timer on my Profilux that run's when the stenner goes on and off to shut off my main pump for the ATO rear sump with the invert command. This says when the timer turns on the Stenner, Tell the main pump to Go off.
     
  12. choss

    choss Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Interesting. I'm in the process of setting up a new system and it will be around 130 gallons all in. My target was to run roughly 30-40 gallons a month via AWC, from the basement up to the main fish room. While I love the idea of using the GHL 2.1 SA (I will add a Profilux later in the year) in doing research, it just seems like the most reliable solutions have been a Stenner pump or a Litermeter3. I haven't heard of any issues with failures etc. For my ATO I'm sticking with my Tunze osmolator, which has been keeping my AIO Fusion 40 rock steady for 2 years. Anyway, I need to think on it some. I think overall I'm looking at good choices.
     
  13. reefwiser

    reefwiser LMAS R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Article Contributor

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    I have a friend that uses a Litermeter 3 but my Maintenance man brain doesn't like the looks of it.:) I look at heavy duty solid built equipment when I buy stuff. That's why have a GHL equipment in the first place.:)
     
  14. choss

    choss Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    I know what you mean. It looks a little bit ghetto especially next to the GHL. Man that thing looks sweet. Its like a Ferrari next to a Honda.
     
  15. Bob Stohrer

    Bob Stohrer Well-Known Member

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    Adding to what Choss and Ed have said, I originally planned to used the GHL doser to ATO with kalk. I dose 4-6 liters a night. When I did the math, I realized the doser would be running more than I would like. I too have worked with many pumps in the food and pharma industries and peristaltic pumps had the highest failure rates in my hands mostly due to the tubing in the pump head eventually cracking from continual flexing. I didn't want to find a few liters of kalk on the floor on some morning.

    I too suggest a higher volume, heavy duty peristaltic or even a centrifugal like Iwaki or PanWorld should work.

    For my 4-6 liter/nightly ATO habit, I went with a $20 lifeguard centrifugal I had lying around. I have it run about 10 seconds every 8 minutes. works like a charm! I know kalk will foul and kill it, so eventually I'll switch to what Ed suggested or something similar.

    Bob
     
  16. reefwiser

    reefwiser LMAS R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Article Contributor

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    I use one of my GHL doser pumps for an ATO as I can control the response of the ATO float when doing auto water changes.
    You can set how long you want the pump to run before it will shut off. This helps with issues of a stuck float switch . You can also adjust how much delay you want to set on the float switch. Example the float could be in an area where you get fause water level changes do to water coming in or out of the sump area. So you could set the delay from 1 second up I have mine of 30 seconds. It took a couple of days watching the float and how it reacted to get it set up properly.
     
  17. Bob Stohrer

    Bob Stohrer Well-Known Member

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    I don't do auto water changes. Instead, mine are almost continuous and gravity fed, drained & exchanged slowly over days.

    My kalk ATO pump is controlled by:
    • A timer that is on 12 hours at night to keep pH stable.
    • pH probe set to 8.2 with a pulse of 1o seconds and a pause of 8 minutes (to keep too much kalk all at once from causing a huge pH spike). The pH never has gone above 8.15 at night with no detectable pH spikes.
    • "ATO with 2 sensors", the optical being at desired water level and the float set just above and a 15 second maximum on time.
    • The pump socket is controlled by PL linking all the above together.
    Works great. My main concerns are the pump dying when I'm gone for 3 weeks or a stuck relay which would dump all the kalk into the system at once. So, I plan to find a more reliable pump and an additional "safety" against a stuck on relay. I received some great recommendations for a "safety" from another poster. I'll see if I can find the thread and post a link.

    Bob
     
  18. Bob Stohrer

    Bob Stohrer Well-Known Member

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  19. choss

    choss Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Bob,

    I'd be very interested in how you do your water changes via gravity fed, etc.

    Chris
     
  20. Bob Stohrer

    Bob Stohrer Well-Known Member

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    Chris,

    I have a 55 gal Brute can in the basement under the tank that is upstairs. The tank overflows into the 55 Brute 12 feet below then to .

    I have two 40 gal refugiums that are 2 feet lower in water levels than the 55. I have the 55 plumbed overflow into 40 #1 which is plumbed to 40 #2 which is plumbed to the return pump. All are connected with 2" PVC.

    I have a second 60 gal saltwater mixing tank. I have the 55 and 60 plumbed together so will have the same water level. I have a union ball valve between them, so I can isolate the 60 to drain and mix a new batch of sea water.

    The 60 is also plumbed to 40 #1 with a 1/4 inch tubing. I have a union ball valve between the 60 and 40 #1 so that I can control the flow from the 60 to 40 #1. I set the valve for a few liters an hours. It takes a few days for the water in the 60 to completely turn over. I have the outlet on the 60 just under the water line so during a power or return pump outage, I don't flood my sumps with an extra 50 gallons.

    Every two weeks, I make another 50 gal of sea water in the 60 and open the valves for a water change.

    Does that make sense? If not, I can draw a quick diagram.

    Bob
     
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