Need help setting up your GHL Doser?

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If you find yourself in need of more detailed instructions, we have just the thing for you!

Our GHL Doser Resource Guide will walk you through the features and functions of your GHL Doser 2, Doser 2.1, and Doser Maxi.

In this guide, you will find instructions for:
  • Performing Doser SA firmware updates
  • Performing Doser Slave firmware updates
  • Setting up ATO and AWC functions
  • Wi-Fi Setup
  • Magnetic Stirrer Setup
  • Setting up myGHL
  • And more...
Resource guide now includes:
  • Direct how-to video links
  • Instructions for Maxi doser
  • Updated instructions for GHL Connect app

To download this guide, simply follow this link:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pfglvp0d4ucfe00/GHL Doser Resource Guide.pdf?dl=0

If you have any questions regarding other features, you can always post on our GHL Support Forum or reach us by email.
 
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StikHedRon

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Man, this is awesome. I love my doser 2 but boy was it tough to connect to the wifi network without any instructions!
 
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Vinny@GHLUSA

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Version 3 of the GHL Doser 2 manual has been released. It is now called GHL Doser 2.1 manual. :)

Details on changes are listed in the original post.
 

TheReefKeeper

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@eltonw - it's not the physical connection, but in your device manager. Once you click on firmware update, and the doser reboots into bootloader mode, you will see a screen asking for which com port - this needs to match the USBVCOM com# in device manager. Please have a read over the instructions.

Also the Security Key for MyGHL you cannot change. Once your doser is on the network, and has ability to communicate with the internet and MyGHL, the Security Key will populate. This you will use on MyGHL.com to add your device.
Sorry to post this here but I can't find your direct contact LOL

This the same Marco from San Carlos in the Garage with all the Tanks?
 

porter_painter

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Just a word of warning for anyone using a 2.1 doser - be sure to calibrate each pump before use.

Although the default flow rate is shown as 60ml per minute in the software on the slowest setting, the highest flow rate that I could achieve with mine was 45ml per minute on fastest flow rate.

Therefore if you are upgrading from an older GHL doser (as I was) you cannot assume similar flow rates.
 

choss

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did the old doser actually pump more per minute? I want to use one of these for AWC and I am wondering if it will hold up and can handle say 2 gallons a day.
 

reefwiser

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I wouldn't use it for 2 gallons a day dosing. 1 gallons but 2 gallons would be pushing it.
 

choss

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So basically it feels like the GHL doser just isn't as reliable for AWC as maybe the Litermeter3 or similar option.
 

reefwiser

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For smaller systems it is fine. You are dealing with a dosing pump. Generally all the hobby level pumps can handle a gallon a day. Once you get above that you are really starting to work the motor hard. I deal with these kind of pumps all day long in the food industry so I used a Stenner dual head pump. I am also looking past my current tank to a much larger tank that my wife will let me buy when I retire.:) My current Stenner is a 170mp4 which will do I think up to a 120 gallons a day. I am using it on a AIO Fusion 40 and it has been fun setting it up so it doesn't make a ATO go crazy. I had a Tunze ATO on the tank and had to take it off it went nuts every time the water change started. Pumping water into the tank too. Had to unplug it to stop it from lowering the salinity. I now use one of my GHL dosers open pumps as my ATO. This also allowed me to move the ATO water out to my garage instead of under the tank. I then used the timer on my Profilux that run's when the stenner goes on and off to shut off my main pump for the ATO rear sump with the invert command. This says when the timer turns on the Stenner, Tell the main pump to Go off.
 

choss

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Interesting. I'm in the process of setting up a new system and it will be around 130 gallons all in. My target was to run roughly 30-40 gallons a month via AWC, from the basement up to the main fish room. While I love the idea of using the GHL 2.1 SA (I will add a Profilux later in the year) in doing research, it just seems like the most reliable solutions have been a Stenner pump or a Litermeter3. I haven't heard of any issues with failures etc. For my ATO I'm sticking with my Tunze osmolator, which has been keeping my AIO Fusion 40 rock steady for 2 years. Anyway, I need to think on it some. I think overall I'm looking at good choices.
 

reefwiser

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I have a friend that uses a Litermeter 3 but my Maintenance man brain doesn't like the looks of it.:) I look at heavy duty solid built equipment when I buy stuff. That's why have a GHL equipment in the first place.:)
 

choss

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I know what you mean. It looks a little bit ghetto especially next to the GHL. Man that thing looks sweet. Its like a Ferrari next to a Honda.
 

Bob Stohrer

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Adding to what Choss and Ed have said, I originally planned to used the GHL doser to ATO with kalk. I dose 4-6 liters a night. When I did the math, I realized the doser would be running more than I would like. I too have worked with many pumps in the food and pharma industries and peristaltic pumps had the highest failure rates in my hands mostly due to the tubing in the pump head eventually cracking from continual flexing. I didn't want to find a few liters of kalk on the floor on some morning.

I too suggest a higher volume, heavy duty peristaltic or even a centrifugal like Iwaki or PanWorld should work.

For my 4-6 liter/nightly ATO habit, I went with a $20 lifeguard centrifugal I had lying around. I have it run about 10 seconds every 8 minutes. works like a charm! I know kalk will foul and kill it, so eventually I'll switch to what Ed suggested or something similar.

Bob
 

reefwiser

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I use one of my GHL doser pumps for an ATO as I can control the response of the ATO float when doing auto water changes.
You can set how long you want the pump to run before it will shut off. This helps with issues of a stuck float switch . You can also adjust how much delay you want to set on the float switch. Example the float could be in an area where you get fause water level changes do to water coming in or out of the sump area. So you could set the delay from 1 second up I have mine of 30 seconds. It took a couple of days watching the float and how it reacted to get it set up properly.
 

Bob Stohrer

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I don't do auto water changes. Instead, mine are almost continuous and gravity fed, drained & exchanged slowly over days.

My kalk ATO pump is controlled by:
  • A timer that is on 12 hours at night to keep pH stable.
  • pH probe set to 8.2 with a pulse of 1o seconds and a pause of 8 minutes (to keep too much kalk all at once from causing a huge pH spike). The pH never has gone above 8.15 at night with no detectable pH spikes.
  • "ATO with 2 sensors", the optical being at desired water level and the float set just above and a 15 second maximum on time.
  • The pump socket is controlled by PL linking all the above together.
Works great. My main concerns are the pump dying when I'm gone for 3 weeks or a stuck relay which would dump all the kalk into the system at once. So, I plan to find a more reliable pump and an additional "safety" against a stuck on relay. I received some great recommendations for a "safety" from another poster. I'll see if I can find the thread and post a link.

Bob
 

choss

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Bob,

I'd be very interested in how you do your water changes via gravity fed, etc.

Chris
 

Bob Stohrer

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Bob,

I'd be very interested in how you do your water changes via gravity fed, etc.

Chris
Chris,

I have a 55 gal Brute can in the basement under the tank that is upstairs. The tank overflows into the 55 Brute 12 feet below then to .

I have two 40 gal refugiums that are 2 feet lower in water levels than the 55. I have the 55 plumbed overflow into 40 #1 which is plumbed to 40 #2 which is plumbed to the return pump. All are connected with 2" PVC.

I have a second 60 gal saltwater mixing tank. I have the 55 and 60 plumbed together so will have the same water level. I have a union ball valve between them, so I can isolate the 60 to drain and mix a new batch of sea water.

The 60 is also plumbed to 40 #1 with a 1/4 inch tubing. I have a union ball valve between the 60 and 40 #1 so that I can control the flow from the 60 to 40 #1. I set the valve for a few liters an hours. It takes a few days for the water in the 60 to completely turn over. I have the outlet on the 60 just under the water line so during a power or return pump outage, I don't flood my sumps with an extra 50 gallons.

Every two weeks, I make another 50 gal of sea water in the 60 and open the valves for a water change.

Does that make sense? If not, I can draw a quick diagram.

Bob
 

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