Need Help with Dimmable T5 Retofit Kit

[bdare]

Hello all,

I picked up some T5's to supplement my Kessill 360x lights. I'd like to have the T5s ramp up and down with my LEDs so I bought a GHL break out box which connects to my controller. I can't seem to figure out which wire goes where from the T5 ballast to the breakout box. Any electrical wizards here to help me?

The breakout box (GHL) has the following ports to plug in the wires from the ballast:
1- Supply + (output) 12V, Max 350mA
2 - 1-10v interface 1 0V - 10V, max 20mA
3 - GND
4 - Relay 1 max 100mA
5 - 1-10V interface 2 0V - 10V, max 20mA
6 - Relay 2

The Ballast has 2 wires coming out which are supposed to support dimming:
1 - (-) Dimming
2 - (+) Control

I started out by connecting ballast port 1 (Dimming) to Break out Box port 2 (1-10v interface) and ballast port 2 (control) to breakout box port 1 (Supply).

When I plug in the controller to the ballast the T5's just shut off. I've gone into the controller and put the lights at 100% but nothing happens. When I unplug the controller and the dimming wires the T5's come back on.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ben

 

[bdare]

Well... I got the kit to dim, but now I have a new problem. When I dim the lights to 0% they don't shut off.

 

[jcricket]

Hey,
I didn't even know you could get dimmable t-5's. Cool. I did some research. I think the the ballast dimming "-" connects to ground. The dimming "+" would likely connect to either #2 or #5. This is a guess on my part. What did you find? I wonder if the dimming ballast actually shuts the t5's off or just way down?
Let me know what you find. I might just look at this too.

 

[bdare]

Hey,
I didn't even know you could get dimmable t-5's. Cool. I did some research. I think the the ballast dimming "-" connects to ground. The dimming "+" would likely connect to either #2 or #5. This is a guess on my part. What did you find? I wonder if the dimming ballast actually shuts the t5's off or just way down?
Let me know what you find. I might just look at this too.

Interesting... I might have to try switching some wires around. I got the dimming to work by connecting the following

Ballast......................Breakout box
(-) Dimming -----> 1-10v interface
(+) Control -----> Relay 1

Problem is... the lights dim, but don't turn off at 0%

 

[bdare]

 

[siggy]

@Brew12 is running a ghl controller

 

[jcricket]

Interesting... I might have to try switching some wires around. I got the dimming to work by connecting the following

Ballast......................Breakout box
(-) Dimming -----> 1-10v interface
(+) Control -----> Relay 1

Problem is... the lights dim, but don't turn off at 0%

I am not an expert at this lighting stuff, but I do mess with electronics a bit. My understanding is the 12v supply is just that. The power to the controller and for the signal voltage. Ground is common to all of the dc circuits. The signal voltage, connection 2 or 5, is what tells the ballast to adjust dimming. A relay output would be in case you needed to control a higher voltage item, say a 110vac(possibly) accessory such as a pump. This is how I read it, but again, I have not fiddled with the dimable ballast or the breakout boxes.

With your connections I can "SPECULATE" you are getting a variable voltage into the ballast, but probably not reaching zero volts to shut it off. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

 

[jcricket]

@Brew12 is running a ghl controller

I see your post on the ballast.
The green white and black wires are strictly for the 110vac wall voltage. DO NOT USE THAT GROUND FOR THE CONTROLLER GROUND. I am pretty sure the dimmer + on the ballast needs to be hooked to the control voltage of pin 2 or 5. The dimmer "-" needs to be connected to the ground on the controller.

EDIT, I meant to say break out box instead of controller. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[siggy]

Im seeing pin 2 / 3 on the breakout 3 is the grey from ballast and 2 is purple ....relay is a on/off type of thing

 

[jcricket]

Okay,
on the ballast
blue, red, grey, yellow are strictly for the functioning of the lamps. They do not equate to wiring in the controller or breakout, tehy go STRICTLY to the lamps. The black white and green connect to the black, white and ground of the 120vac wall voltage or outlet.

The controller, I would assume, has a 12v supply voltage and a ground. These need to connect to the breakouts 12v supply and ground.

The breakout has the supply and ground connects as stated about. Then pin 2 or 5, (0-10v interface or 0-10v max) will connect to the ballast dimmer "+". The breakout ground should also be connected to the ballast dimmer "-".

I did see the interface voltage listed as 1-10v. If that is in fact the control voltage going to the ballast, your lights might not shut off unless the breakout box is shut off. You may always have the one volt going to the ballast and telling it to run very dimmly. I hope this makes sense.

 

[jcricket]

I think I found the info on google. Info I didn't have and needed.

Function
1	Supply + (output)	12V, max. 350mA
2	1-10V interface 1	0V - 10V, max. 20mA
3	GND
4	Relay 1	max. 100mA (open collector: active = GND, inactive = floating), *2)
5	1-10V interface 2	0V - 10V, max. 20mA
6	Relay 2	max. 100mA (open collector: active = GND, inactive = floating), *2)

These are the functions of your breakout when connected to the L-Port of your controller.
otherwise look at this

Breakout Boxes & Adapters

www.aquariumcomputer.com

So in this case, hook the ballast dimmer "+" to pin 2, and the ballast dimmer "-" the relay(I think).
Normally I would say ground but there is this pesky note:
"GND = Ground = 0V; *1) only for certain ProfiLux models, at the moment only for ProfiLux Mini/Light WiFi, otherwise not connected; *2) outputs with clamp diode to GND"

This should be correct. Sorry about the misinformation. Next time I will get all the info first before putting my foot in my mouth.

 

[bdare]

I see your post on the ballast.
The green white and black wires are strictly for the 110vac wall voltage. DO NOT USE THAT GROUND FOR THE CONTROLLER GROUND. I am pretty sure the dimmer + on the ballast needs to be hooked to the control voltage of pin 2 or 5. The dimmer "-" needs to be connected to the ground on the controller.

EDIT, I meant to say break out box instead of controller. Sorry for the confusion.

I tried moving the wire from the relay port to the ground. Same thing. Lights go down very low when programmed to 0% intensity but do not turn off.

 

[bdare]

Yeah... there's no "power" to the break out box. Does that mean I'm stuck with dim lights?
I guess I could just buy another controllable power strip and then turn the power off on the lights from the controller... but would like to avoid that if at all possible.
Perhaps I should have bought this breakout box instead?

EVG-AP-2F-HIC – GHL USA

www.aquariumcomputer.com

 

[jcricket]

Hey,
That is what is confusing. The info says 1-10v and 0-10v from the control signal. If it were 0 then I would think the lights would go out. But if it is 1, well then you only get very dim. I don't see a way around this, with the exception of what you said with another power strip or other switch to shut them off. I can't see enough info on the other break out box to know if it would be any different.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

 

[bdare]

Hey,
That is what is confusing. The info says 1-10v and 0-10v from the control signal. If it were 0 then I would think the lights would go out. But if it is 1, well then you only get very dim. I don't see a way around this, with the exception of what you said with another power strip or other switch to shut them off. I can't see enough info on the other break out box to know if it would be any different.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

You've been a huge help already. Thanks!

 

[siggy]

Yeah... there's no "power" to the break out box. Does that mean I'm stuck with dim lights?
I guess I could just buy another controllable power strip and then turn the power off on the lights from the controller... but would like to avoid that if at all possible.
Perhaps I should have bought this breakout box instead?

EVG-AP-2F-HIC – GHL USA

www.aquariumcomputer.com

i will be setting up a ghl system in the next week and was planning of using a bob to control my t5 (2 banks)
I am now thinking you need to run the 120v on 1 relay to enable the light then threw a 1-10v contact to control dim feature. @Ditto is the guy we need. They are headed to Chicago so it may take a day or two.

@Ditto, is Pin 4 & 6 one set of contacts or one relay and are they rated for 120 volts? or do we need to use this to power a 12v coil auxiliary relay to power the ballasts

 

[bdare]

i will be setting up a ghl system in the next week and was planning of using a bob to control my t5 (2 banks)
I am now thinking you need to run the 120v on 1 relay to enable the light then threw a 1-10v contact to control dim feature. @Ditto is the guy we need. They are headed to Chicago so it may take a day or two.

@Ditto, is Pin 4 & 6 one set of contacts or one relay and are they rated for 120 volts? or do we need to use this to power a 12v coil auxiliary relay to power the ballasts

I'm beginning to think the S&L break out box is the wrong part for dimming T5's. Check out this response from GHL Support:
Hi Ben,
If these ballasts are 1-10V compatible, you can dim them with our S & L breakout box accessory. The 1-10V control cable from the ballast will then have to be installed onto this box. The breakout box is then connected directly to one of the 1-10V ports on the ProfiLux.
Another option would be to use our EVG-AP-2F card.
This allows you to wire up to 2 dimmable ballasts directly to this card for full dimming and ON/OFF control.

 

[siggy]

I'm beginning to think the S&L break out box is the wrong part for dimming T5's. Check out this response from GHL Support:

No you need both this: , you can dim them with our S & L breakout box accessory
Those are 2 12v relays the BOB turns on and off. and a terminal strip to connect the ballast dim wires to the 1-10v on bob.
In this day and age this should be a plug and play module......They can build and Ion warp drive but cant simplify common lighting.

 

[bdare]

I honestly went with the BOB because it looks better. That other thing is ugly as sin and costs twice as much. I assumed dimming to zero would just turn a light off... I was wrong.

Anyone want to buy a lightly used BOB?

 

[siggy]

You still need it to control the accessory, NOW this is were GHL falls short there should be DOC'S with a wire diag for the BOB and the accessory board to wire this. I spent 20 min on google to find a schematic of the bob and still no luck
Just use the Pab to turn lights on/off then the bob to dimm....I would hope it can do that.