NEED HELP WITH REEF PARAMETERS

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PeterB113

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Hey guys so i just got back from my LFS and got a API spin test done and their telling me my magnesium is WAY too high. Heres a picture of all the parameters they tested for im not sure why its showing salinity @ 1.024 because when we used the hanna salinity checker it reads 1.026. Is there anyway to get my magnesium down? Im not dosing anything just regular water changes . The reason i got the water tested today is because a new torch i just got 2 weeks ago isint looking great. Please let me know what you guys think.

image.jpg
 
Your LFS charged you $ for this? API tests are incredibly unreliable for all tests. Magnesium is a parameter that even excellent tests have a hard time getting right, let alone an API.

If you are not dosing I can’t think of any possible reason your magnesium could get to 1800. It would be helpful for you to get your own test kits. Try to stick to the ones that people on this forum recommend. That is usually Hanna checkers, Salifert, Red Sea pro. I’m sure there are a couple more. Just please DON’T use API. If you need to have a LFS test something, try to find a store that uses quality test kits only.
 
Your nitrates are low for 0.2 phosphate. that should put your nitrates around 20 ppm. that will probably have more effect on your torch than Magnesium. Shoot for 100:1 ratio NO3 to PO4
 
I've never really trusted the hanna salinity checker. My go to will always be a hydrometer. And my hydrometer lined up perfect with my salinity probe.

Don't trust magnesium.

As for not dosing. If you are mixing your salt at the correct salinity. You should see that reflected in your parameters.
 
Your nitrates are low for 0.2 phosphate. that should put your nitrates around 20 ppm. that will probably have more effect on your torch than Magnesium. Shoot for 100:1 ratio NO3 to PO4
With respect, The test results as a whole are unreliable. OP needs to retest with reliable kits before changing anything.
 
The test results as a whole are unreliable. OP needs to retest with reliable kits before changing anything.
Agreed, the ratio is so off, OP would need to be feeding something with heavy phosphates to get that number.

I bet phosphates are near zero with low nitrates and its starving the torch. Just a guess.
 
With respect, The test results as a whole are unreliable. OP needs to retest with reliable kits before changing anything.
I agree, but they aren't so unreliable that seeing his ratio out of whack is suspect. It may not be exact numbers, but his ratio by that test is 5 to 1. I would bet large sums of money that his ratio is nowhere close to 100:1
 
I have all the test kits for hanna but ran out of reagents so just did this test in the mean time. Im going to get all new reagents for all my checkers and see whats up. Only thing i feed is 1 mysis cube per day for the fish and feed once a week with reef roids for zoas and ocassionaly feed mysis to some of my LPS but very very little.
 
would the best course of action be to just do a water change and restest and go from there? The water is slighty cloudy as well idk if its a bloom or what.
 
I would test myself with a kit but I tend to follow Randy's advice and not bother testing mag.
As to your salinity both my Hanna salinity checkers read 0.002 high if I calibrate them with Hannas calibration fluid. The only way I get an accurate reading is if I calibrate them with salt water of a known salinity. I have two because I thought the first was reading wrong which is was but the second was identical. I don't really trust them so I use a calibrated refractometer and have TM hydrometer to verify results once in a while.
 
I would test myself with a kit but I tend to follow Randy's advice and not bother testing mag.
As to your salinity both my Hanna salinity checkers read 0.002 high if I calibrate them with Hannas calibration fluid. The only way I get an accurate reading is if I calibrate them with salt water of a known salinity. I have two because I thought the first was reading wrong which is was but the second was identical. I don't really trust them so I use a calibrated refractometer and have TM hydrometer to verify results once in a while.
I had the same problem with my hanna salinity checkers thats why i have 2 also lol i dont know what to trust now
 
My Hanna salinometer consistently reads about 3ppm lower than the SBE45 thermosalinograph at work. I just at 3 ppm to whatever is displayed and don't bother with calibration.
 
I would test myself with a kit but I tend to follow Randy's advice and not bother testing mag.
As to your salinity both my Hanna salinity checkers read 0.002 high if I calibrate them with Hannas calibration fluid. The only way I get an accurate reading is if I calibrate them with salt water of a known salinity. I have two because I thought the first was reading wrong which is was but the second was identical. I don't really trust them so I use a calibrated refractometer and have TM hydrometer to verify results once in a while.
Not messing around with the salinity anymore! I just got a Milwaukee salinity tester and the hanna marine master kit. Also had another LFS test again today and heres the numbers he got.
 

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So heres the results! Going to check nitrates and phosphate later
 

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Hey guys so i just got back from my LFS and got a API spin test done and their telling me my magnesium is WAY too high. Heres a picture of all the parameters they tested for im not sure why its showing salinity @ 1.024 because when we used the hanna salinity checker it reads 1.026. Is there anyway to get my magnesium down? Im not dosing anything just regular water changes . The reason i got the water tested today is because a new torch i just got 2 weeks ago isint looking great. Please let me know what you guys think.

image.jpg
have water retested with a kit that is Not API. Spintest originally made by LaMotte is an API device and one I rarely trust
 

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