Need new tires, stupid question inside!

[4FordFamily]

Its not an xDrive. No need for it here in north Texas. The tires have plenty of tread and since the nail didn't actually puncture the tire I should be good for another year, I only drive around 10k miles a year. Not sure what I will do when the time comes for new tires. Will wait and see what kind of condition the front vs back tires are in. The dealership said the back ones will wear out faster and they suggest doing them 2 at a time. I do know I will not stick with what is currently on there. Not the greatest reviews online, but I'm sure part of that is the $500 per tire installed price tag. I'm afraid to ask what the dealer would want for them. I will get rid of the car in early 2020 when the CPO warranty runs out so if I replace the tires next year I don't want to spend a ton of money on tires I will have for less than a year.

I’ve always run Michelin tires when I can. Costco often has the best deal on them but discount tire will price match. They’re a fantastic tire for a sporty ride, or really anything. If they made 35 and 40 series low pros I’d use them on my summer wheels, too.

 

[Opus]

I had Michelin's on my previous BMW and I thought they wore out way to quick. And I'm a very conservative driver, as my wife will attest to. I really like the last set of Yokohama's I had. My wife's Sequoia had Michelin's which seemed to be really good, but I think they were rated for 60k miles. Before I found out I wasn't going to need a new set of tires, I was leaning toward Cooper Tires. They had a really high rating and weren't expensive.

 

[Matthew Frost]

The compound of the tire will dramatically effect how long it lasts. I apologize I don't remember exactly what all of the numbers mean, its been a while, an A compound tire will be much "harder" and there for last longer than a G compound tire but will provide less adhesion. The softer the compound the more adhesion and the faster the tire will wear. Most traction control/ABS systems measure tire rotation/rotations and compare them front to rear. If the front or the rear are counting a different number of revolutions over the same period of time it will trigger a warning in the system and it will try to "correct" the variance. If it can't correct it the system will fault. If your front and rear tires have a significant difference in circumference than it will fault. (Heavy wear/mismatched tires/different brands etc) I won't get on my soap box about why run flats are a horrendous waste of money.