Need some help - I struggle with low light & color changing DI

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

My eyes don't interpret the delta in changes too well for some reason with DI resin.

I knew I was coming up on having to replace my Anion, to me it looked like I had about 1.5 inches of color left. I just happen to push the TDS button and I was surprised I was at 4. So I am going to replace the Anion (I get about 150-200 gallons out of it). But I think I am at about 800 gallons through the mixed and the Cation. I included photos of the sediment and carbon blocks. Those have about 1.5K gallons through them (what are you guys using to determine when to change the sediment filters?).

The reason for this post is that my eyes don't see the difference in the color changes too well with the light that is in this room, can someone look over my shoulder. I used different light sources for the pics and that made it even worse for me, lol. Thoughts on my mixed and Cation? Is it time?

 

[EricR]

Interesting,,, I only use mixed-bed resin in my chambers and the color change is obvious.

My BAD guesses are as follows:
- Sediment filter looks pretty dirty,,, and they're cheap,,, so,,, uhh
- First DI looks fine, I think
- 2nd DI looks roughly 1/3 spent
- Last DI -- can't tell -- could it be completely exhausted?

Color-blind here so don't put too much weight in my "views" above

 

[X-37B]

Best is to change carbon and sediment filter when you change your di resin.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Nest is to change carbon and sediment filter when you change your di resin.

@90's reefer - Really change sediment and carbon each time I change Anion? That seems excessive, not discrediting it. But changing out 6 canisters every 150 G is intense. My sed and carbon are all 1mic, so the sed is going to look dirty, that's good. But I don't have any restrictive flow at all. Pressure is still >85 PSI. Thoughts?

 

[KStatefan]

I would add a tds meter to it so you could verify. Mine change at a much more obvious difference.

Color of the sediment filter does not tell you anything.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Nest is to change carbon and sediment filter when you change your di resin.

I could be wrong, and typically I am - I thought the TDS was due to spent DI. If a sediment was junk, it was clogged. And, the carbon isn't showing any dirt that I can tell. I get the depletion, but that is why we run two and then the process starts all over again?

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I would add a tds meter to it so you could verify. Mine change at a much more obvious difference.

Color of the sediment filter does not tell you anything.

@KStatefan - I have a TDS meter, it just started reading 4. Are you suggesting adding a second? If so, where in the flow are you suggesting to add?

 

[edd59]

i have the same unit and a 120gal tank. i have changed anion 3 times in a year, all the others are fine.
i have trouble reading test colors, but to me resin color is very obvious. turns almost white from the bottom up. no change in other di cartridges. it should run for a few minutes before checking tds.
my sediment looks like yours. if sediment clogs you will have less slower product. from what read a filter cleans better as it gets dirty, tighter micron.

 

[KStatefan]

@KStatefan - I have a TDS meter, it just started reading 4. Are you suggesting adding a second? If so, where in the flow are you suggesting to add?

Where is it reading 4?

I have one before my DI, before my mixed bed and after mixed bed

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Where is it reading 4?

I have one before my DI, before my mixed bed and after mixed bed

Photos to show. I have the in connecting prior to the mixed (RED) and the out after the cation (BLUE). I have 46 TDS in and now 5 TDS out. Was zero.

 

[X-37B]

I run a brs 4 stage unit. I get around 1000gs out of the mixed di bed. Also I use a hand held tds meter that I can calibrate. I can go to 3-4 tds before my hand held unit goes to 1.
There is no way to test carbon and prefilter so I just change them when I change the resin. They are cheap from my perspective.
My city water is around 50 on my tds meter.
I have never used the 2 bed di system so?
I also make 250gs at a time.
I am not sure why you need anything other than the mixed bed unit. Maybe you can explain why?
Also in on my unit my runs 5-6 prior to the mixed di bed.
When was the last time you replaced the membranes?

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I run a brs 4 stage unit. I get around 1000gs out of the mixed di bed. Also I use a hand held tds meter that I can calibrate. I can go to 3-4 tds before my hand held unit goes to 1.
There is no way to test carbon and prefilter so I just change them when I change the resin. They are cheap from my perspective.
My city water is around 50 on my tds meter.
I have never used the 2 bed di system so?
I also make 250gs at a time.
I am not sure why you need anything other than the mixed bed unit. Maybe you can explain why?
Also in on my unit my runs 5-6 prior to the mixed di bed.
When was the last time you replaced the membranes?

Answers in red below:

I am not sure why you need anything other than the mixed bed unit. Maybe you can explain why?
For a while, every single time I would do a water change, on any of my SW tanks I would battle diatoms for a couple days post water change. So, after a frustrating day, a 12 pack, too much reading and some great marketing by some companies - 2 days later I was installing that hot mess. Hind sight being what it is, after all that, I discovered I had exceptionally low water pressure and added a booster basically at the same time. My issue with diatoms and water changes went away instantly, but there is a high likely hood that my low pressure was causing my system to not work properly allowing higher level of silicates to pass through, or so I have read since then. However, 2 other events have taken place and perhaps my overly spec'd system have helped with plus one other thought -
1) My neighborhood was moved to a newly installed water tower from a new source.
2) You likely watched my town's story on national new this summer regarding a situation that crashed our water system. We went without water for 2 weeks, man, living like an Engal from Little House On The Prairie proved I wouldn't have made it 3 days 200 years ago. It was 3 weeks before I even thought about running water through this, perhaps this has helped since then. Our water has some funky crap in it now. And, it's funny, because NO ONE realy uses the water. My pressure (without the pump on) has gone from 28 PSI to 75 PSI since that event....

germantown tennessee water issue - Google Search

3) I have been going through Anion in about 200 ish gallons or so. So, I would still burn through mixed beds if simply solo faster, no? This is prolonging mixed bed's life I thought.

Also in on my unit my runs 5-6 prior to the mixed di bed.
When was the last time you replaced the membranes?
The RO membranes are new. I added a water saver (second RO) about a month ago to increase output. I replaced the other when adding the second. The production is silly fast, I was caught off guard how fast I can actually fill a Brute with RODI.

 

[X-37B]

Answers in red below:

I am not sure why you need anything other than the mixed bed unit. Maybe you can explain why?
For a while, every single time I would do a water change, on any of my SW tanks I would battle diatoms for a couple days post water change. So, after a frustrating day, a 12 pack, too much reading and some great marketing by some companies - 2 days later I was installing that hot mess. Hind sight being what it is, after all that, I discovered I had exceptionally low water pressure and added a booster basically at the same time. My issue with diatoms and water changes went away instantly, but there is a high likely hood that my low pressure was causing my system to not work properly allowing higher level of silicates to pass through, or so I have read since then. However, 2 other events have taken place and perhaps my overly spec'd system have helped with plus one other thought -
1) My neighborhood was moved to a newly installed water tower from a new source.
2) You likely watched my town's story on national new this summer regarding a situation that crashed our water system. We went without water for 2 weeks, man, living like an Engal from Little House On The Prairie proved I wouldn't have made it 3 days 200 years ago. It was 3 weeks before I even thought about running water through this, perhaps this has helped since then. Our water has some funky crap in it now. And, it's funny, because NO ONE realy uses the water. My pressure (without the pump on) has gone from 28 PSI to 75 PSI since that event....

germantown tennessee water issue - Google Search

3) I have been going through Anion in about 200 ish gallons or so. So, I would still burn through mixed beds if simply solo faster, no? This is prolonging mixed bed's life I thought.

Also in on my unit my runs 5-6 prior to the mixed di bed.
When was the last time you replaced the membranes?
The RO membranes are new. I added a water saver (second RO) about a month ago to increase output. I replaced the other when adding the second. The production is silly fast, I was caught off guard how fast I can actually fill a Brute with RODI.

Well never heard of your towns water issues as I dont watch tv, lol.
I must be missing something. If your water comming out of your membranes is 5-6 like mine, i run 2 membranes a 100 and 75, a mixed bed should last way more than described, imo.
My pressure runs 60psi so your booster is working.
If it was my system I would run the mixed bed and monitor your results.
I flush for 5 minutes before and after useage
Anyway thats about all I got. Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[KStatefan]

Photos to show. I have the in connecting prior to the mixed (RED) and the out after the cation (BLUE). I have 46 TDS in and now 5 TDS out. Was zero.

So you have 46 tds coming out of your membrane?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

And, the carbon isn't showing any dirt that I can tell

There aren't any outward signs that carbon filters need to be replaced. You won't see any "dirt".

The RO membranes are new.

What is the advertised rejection rate on your membranes?

... prior to the mixed...I have 46 TDS in

Or?

Also in on my unit my runs 5-6 prior to the mixed di bed.

Which is it?

What is the TDS of your tap water? Your TDS after the membrane should be only 1-5% of the tap TDS. If it's higher, your membrane may not be seated properly or may be damaged (assuming it's new).

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

So you have 46 tds coming out of your membrane?

I am guessing I do.

 

[edd59]

i use the 3 di system because well water has high co2 and depletes the resin fast. with a seperate anion it removes the co2 and you only have to change the anion. i have not changed my other 2 resins or any other filters in over a year.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

There aren't any outward signs that carbon filters need to be replaced. You won't see any "dirt".


What is the advertised rejection rate on your membranes?


Or?

Which is it?

What is the TDS of your tap water? Your TDS after the membrane should be only 1-5% of the tap TDS. If it's higher, your membrane may not be seated properly or may be damaged (assuming it's new).

So maybe I boogered this thing up. The tds probe

There aren't any outward signs that carbon filters need to be replaced. You won't see any "dirt".


What is the advertised rejection rate on your membranes?


Or?

Which is it?

What is the TDS of your tap water? Your TDS after the membrane should be only 1-5% of the tap TDS. If it's higher, your membrane may not be seated properly or may be damaged (assuming it's new).

@EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal (great name...)
The two membranes I have are :
1) https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/100-...D=4474&indexName=brs_prod_m2_default_products
2) https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/water-saver-upgrade-kit-bulk-reef-supply.html

Rejection rates are 96-98%

I am not sure which is inline (in front) of which, meaning water coming in may go into either one, then on to the next one. The waste water goes into the other RO.

Regarding TDS, one side of the probe is on the "in" side of the first of the three di canisters with the other probe being after the last di canister.
I don't have a pocket TDS tester, so I haven't tested my tap.

I'll put a new sediment block in today and order new carbon blocks.

 

[KStatefan]

I am guessing I do.

I would fix that first. That would make your di resin last much longer

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I would fix that first. That would make your di resin last much longer

Agreed. Need to understand what is causing this first. Not sure what I hosed up.