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Can I also install cabinet door switches to turn on lights? I know with the breakout box there is a way but now I am unsure how to connect the 3.5 with the plug to the door sensors.
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I completely agree with you. I have seen instances where the optical sensor gets build up or fails for unknown reasons much sooner than high quality mechanical float switches. I personally use a combination of both and keep extra of both in case one does fail.I have all Neptune optical sensors in my setup. 2 on the ATK, 1 in the RO reservoir, 2 in DDR dosing containers. People are talking about how mechanical sensors can fail, but you should know that these optical sensors can and do fail as well, and it's probably not that rare. I've read of quite a few others having the low level sensors on the DDR go bad, and I personally have had the low level sensor on the ATK fail in the CLOSED position less than 3 months after purchase and installation. This was accompanied by some brownish stuff leaking out where the cord meets the sensor. Failing in the CLOSED position was particularly bad for this sensor; because of this, the ATK would never activate on its own or send any alarm, and your return pump would eventually be sucking air. I now have an email alarm set to warn me if the ATK doesn't activate at all for 4 hours, should this ever happen again.
Oh, I'm sorry...completely overlooked the post. Considering a door sensor works on the same principle as a mechanical float, I would wire the same way as described above.so I don't think anyone answered the question on door sensor? how can I connect the cabinet door sensors to a FMM ?
This is the wisest advice I have read around ATK . Thank you for sharing.I have all Neptune optical sensors in my setup. 2 on the ATK, 1 in the RO reservoir, 2 in DDR dosing containers. People are talking about how mechanical sensors can fail, but you should know that these optical sensors can and do fail as well, and it's probably not that rare. I've read of quite a few others having the low level sensors on the DDR go bad, and I personally have had the low level sensor on the ATK fail in the CLOSED position less than 3 months after purchase and installation. This was accompanied by some brownish stuff leaking out where the cord meets the sensor. Failing in the CLOSED position was particularly bad for this sensor; because of this, the ATK would never activate on its own or send any alarm, and your return pump would eventually be sucking air. I now have an email alarm set to warn me if the ATK doesn't activate at all for 4 hours, should this ever happen again.
Sure! I use the following to connect float switches to the FMM module. Break off the longer post as it won't be needed.
I wire this directly to the float switch with some heat shrink to protect wiring.
Then connect a 3.5mm male to male from float to FMM module.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=644
Here is the finished product...
Worked fine for my setup while I was running it. One major reason why I’ve moved away from Neptune to my own DIY controller is the freedom to use the technology I want…Hi thanks for posting but the FMM takes 4 TRRS pole 3.5mm jack not 3 pole TRS... I contacted Neptune they said could possible short the unit plugging 3 pole into 4... I tried anyways have these 2L Kamoer Dosing containers with built in float switch I was trying to incorporate ... it doesnt fry the unit but the switching is not detected by the FMM ports 3,4. Any Ideas would consider a TRS to TRSS adapter they sell but not certain still if the pin outs are the same?