Neptune Apex breakout box

[Xclusive Reef]

New to Apex and wanted to know in order to setup 2-3 float switches and cabinet light switches, do I need to get a breakout box for the 2016 new apex or can it work without it?

 

[jml1149]

Yes, you would need the breakout box to tie the float switches to your Apex. I do the same thing for my fresh water reservoir.

If money isn't an issue, you might consider picking up an FMM module and a couple optical sensors. I really like the optical sensors better than the mechanical flow switches in saltwater. I've had several mechanical types fail and the opticals have been going strong since installation.

If you do go mechanical, I would use two minimum at each install location just in case.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Yes, you would need the breakout box to tie the float switches to your Apex. I do the same thing for my fresh water reservoir.

If money isn't an issue, you might consider picking up an FMM module and a couple optical sensors. I really like the optical sensors better than the mechanical flow switches in saltwater. I've had several mechanical types fail and the opticals have been going strong since installation.

If you do go mechanical, I would use two minimum at each install location just in case.

I love my ATK. The optical sensors are definitely the way to go.

 

[MaddyP]

Yes, you would need the breakout box to tie the float switches to your Apex. I do the same thing for my fresh water reservoir.

If money isn't an issue, you might consider picking up an FMM module and a couple optical sensors. I really like the optical sensors better than the mechanical flow switches in saltwater. I've had several mechanical types fail and the opticals have been going strong since installation.

If you do go mechanical, I would use two minimum at each install location just in case.

I think an FMM would be much more useful, even for float switches. I wire my floats with a 3.5mm jack and plug into the FMM, this is a much more dynamic solution than the break out box.

 

[jml1149]

I love my ATK. The optical sensors are definitely the way to go.

Good point. If you're looking for an ATO then ATK all the way. If you're looking to do something else, like monitor levels in an RO container, or safety shutoffs, etc. you can order the individual FMM and individual optical sensors with the nifty magnet mounts.

My first tank was a 29g tank with an over the top overflow. So many floods. So very many floods. I had to put an emergency return shutoff float switch at the top of the tank so if my overflow broke siphon, and the tank started filling up, the Apex would kill the return pump. So many floods and by default angry wife. This was before the FMM was available though.

If you're looking for BOTH, the ATK is a solid auto-topoff system and comes with the FMM module. The FMM module has four inputs and the ATK only uses two of them. The additional two inputs can be used for optical sensors, flow sensors, leak detectors, etc.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

I think an FMM would be much more useful, even for float switches. I wire my floats with a 3.5mm jack and plug into the FMM, this is a much more dynamic solution than the break out box.

can you post a pics so i can check it out? those 3.5 mm jacks

 

[Xclusive Reef]

Yes, you would need the breakout box to tie the float switches to your Apex. I do the same thing for my fresh water reservoir.

If money isn't an issue, you might consider picking up an FMM module and a couple optical sensors. I really like the optical sensors better than the mechanical flow switches in saltwater. I've had several mechanical types fail and the opticals have been going strong since installation.

If you do go mechanical, I would use two minimum at each install location just in case.

good stuff man. what sensors do you recommend?

 

[MaddyP]

can you post a pics so i can check it out? those 3.5 mm jacks

Sure! I use the following to connect float switches to the FMM module. Break off the longer post as it won't be needed.


I wire this directly to the float switch with some heat shrink to protect wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013AP77T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then connect a 3.5mm male to male from float to FMM module.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=644


Here is the finished product...

 

[jml1149]

Optical sensors or mechanical sensors?

 

[MaddyP]

Optical sensors or mechanical sensors?

If this is directed to me, the above is mechanical float.

 

[jml1149]

good stuff man. what sensors do you recommend?

Sorry, I was referencing this. However, you mechanical switch implementation is awesome! I'm a big DIY guy where possible, and appreciate the clean install you have there.

 

[MaddyP]

Sorry, I was referencing this. However, you mechanical switch implementation is awesome! I'm a big DIY guy where possible, and appreciate the clean install you have there.

Thanks! It seemed a no brainer once I realized the leak detectors likely work on the same principle.

 

[reefguy565]

Thanks! It seemed a no brainer once I realized the leak detectors likely work on the same principle.

Optical sensors or mechanical sensors?

both. i want to see the difference.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

Optical sensors or mechanical sensors?

I would want to see the optical sensor. Reefguy i think the difference is one is mechanical and the other has an optical eye which i have read does not get stuck as much as mechanical ones. At the same time you can clean them out with some vinegar once in a while to keep them clean.

 

[MaddyP]

I would want to see the optical sensor. Reefguy i think the difference is one is mechanical and the other has an optical eye which i have read does not get stuck as much as mechanical ones. At the same time you can clean them out with some vinegar once in a while to keep them clean.

These are mechanical float switches. These work by magnetic contact when the buoyancy causes the float to move.

And this is an optical sensor. It works based on sensing the level of refraction when in contact with water.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

These are mechanical float switches. These work by magnetic contact when the buoyancy causes the float to move.

And this is an optical sensor. It works based on sensing the level of refraction when in contact with water.

I would figure the breakout box would be easier as all you need to do is insert the wires in the breakoutbox. with the FMM you have to make sure it has a plug so now you have to attach the plug to the 3.5 cable. I guess I have to watch some youtube videos on this.

 

[reefguy565]

where do you find the opitcal sensors?

 

[MaddyP]

I would figure the breakout box would be easier as all you need to do is insert the wires in the breakoutbox. with the FMM you have to make sure it has a plug so now you have to attach the plug to the 3.5 cable. I guess I have to watch some youtube videos on this.

You are correct, although, Neptune sells optical sensors that plug directly into the FMM. With the other accessories available for the FMM, it is a much better investment.

https://www.neptunesystems.com/products/expansion-modules/fmm/

 

[jml1149]

You are correct, although, Neptune sells optical sensors that plug directly into the FMM. With the other accessories available for the FMM, it is a much better investment.

https://www.neptunesystems.com/products/expansion-modules/fmm/

Really I agree.

If you're going to use a mechanical switch, the green-ish ones MaddyP posted, again in my experience, are far superior to the white ones on the right. I've had several of those fail for various issues, the float got stuck, the wire compromised, etc. Such a PITA.

If you must use them though, there are ways to make them better. For instance, in all of my failures, the switch failed CLOSED, the wires shorted, etc. So when I was using them, I made sure that the CLOSED position was my SAFE state. I was using them to do a simple DIY ATO, and CLOSED was OFF on the ATO pump. This way if it failed, the ATO pump would stay off and not flood my basement again.

I haven't had one of the green ones fail yet, but it's certainly possible.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

Really I agree.

If you're going to use a mechanical switch, the green-ish ones MaddyP posted, again in my experience, are far superior to the white ones on the right. I've had several of those fail for various issues, the float got stuck, the wire compromised, etc. Such a PITA.

If you must use them though, there are ways to make them better. For instance, in all of my failures, the switch failed CLOSED, the wires shorted, etc. So when I was using them, I made sure that the CLOSED position was my SAFE state. I was using them to do a simple DIY ATO, and CLOSED was OFF on the ATO pump. This way if it failed, the ATO pump would stay off and not flood my basement again.

I haven't had one of the green ones fail yet, but it's certainly possible.

good point you make. I will keep that in mind. If the mechanical failed how come you did not switch over to the optical floats?