New orphek cube light

Orphek

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I’m debating on upgrading. I just hate the fact that I upgraded to the v4g2 a month or so before the icon upgrade came out. So I already had $700 or so in my lights to get them running properly.
but I do wonder about my par….


corey
Then you just need to upgrade the control system and you also will get more PAR . Also the new system cool the LEDs better another plus . And try other par metter as low cost par can not read UV violet or infra red .
 

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What about 36 x 36" cube
30" deep? I currently have 2 kessil a500x but if I can get away with having one of these without hard shadows I'd definitely consider for sure!
 

Orphek

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What about 36 x 36" cube
30" deep? I currently have 2 kessil a500x but if I can get away with having one of these without hard shadows I'd definitely consider for sure!
Yes 1x Amazonas 960 with 90d Will give you equal spread and equal par at the bottom of the tank . And you can hang close to the water .
At the middle/ top you will get very high par .

3782ACA6-0056-434F-BD39-5FB744A73BC1.jpeg
 
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Orphek

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Yes 1x Amazonas 960 with 90d Will give you equal spread and equal par at the bottom of the tank . And you can hang close to the water .
At the middle/ top you will get very high par .

3782ACA6-0056-434F-BD39-5FB744A73BC1.jpeg
And this with 60d you get also very high par at the bottom but more at the center up by few cm and it spread equal !

this is very important to get the PAR equal all over when target at the bottom of 250-350 par ! Not many lights can do so .

EB9D1C2A-E272-4650-AC2D-EEA19FA2A84B.jpeg
 

FishOkay

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And this with 60d you get also very high par at the bottom but more at the center up by few cm and it spread equal !

this is very important to get the PAR equal all over when target at the bottom of 250-350 par ! Not many lights can
Wow that's actually pretty impressive! I'd need higher par at the bottom having derasa clams but also my rockwork isn't that high so higher par lower down is what I am after! Actually quite hard to light especially when trying to keep a mixed reef.
 

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Orphek

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Wow that's actually pretty impressive! I'd need higher par at the bottom having derasa clams but also my rockwork isn't that high so higher par lower down is what I am after! Actually quite hard to light especially when trying to keep a mixed reef.
If you need higher par then you should go with 60d or 30d or even 15d then you get higher par and less cover but extremely high par at the top so take in consideration! Here you can see you can get almost 1000 par but this is too much !
E3C2EE14-BC1E-420E-ABF5-CA7F30DA6B18.jpeg
 
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Then you just need to upgrade the control system and you also will get more PAR . Also the new system cool the LEDs better another plus . And try other par metter as low cost par can not read UV violet or infra red .
which par meter do you recommend? I used the apogee mq510. What is the control system you speak of, new PCB boards and such? that is what I just put in.

corey
 

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If you need higher par then you should go with 60d or 30d or even 15d then you get higher par and less cover but extremely high par at the top so take in consideration! Here you can see you can get almost 1000 par but this is too much !
E3C2EE14-BC1E-420E-ABF5-CA7F30DA6B18.jpeg
Wow um surprised these aren't talked about more often. I remember not to long a go I asked BRS if there was a single led fixture which was able to light my tank and they said there wasn't really a songle fixture on the market which could. Then the kessil a500x came out and I jumped on it. Wish I had known of these! Have been emailing your guys about pricing and they sent me the app to angulus app which is pretty cool. So once I've sold my kessils il definitely be getting one. Even better that I can get rid of my hanging bracket and mount ir on the ceiling!
 
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If these lights put off similar spectrum as the icons default helius program. I believe they really look like 20k radium MH'S. They give a really crisp look.

If this is the case, then I think allot of MH people will flock to this fixture. You can get away from the heat, get all the features that led has to offer and save some money on electricity with the options of changing spectrum if you need too.

I would really like to see comparison side by side with a mh bulb. I bet allot of people will be shocked.
 

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If these lights put off similar spectrum as the icons default helius program. I believe they really look like 20k radium MH'S. They give a really crisp look.

If this is the case, then I think allot of MH people will flock to this fixture. You can get away from the heat, get all the features that led has to offer and save some money on electricity with the options of changing spectrum if you need too.

I would really like to see comparison side by side with a mh bulb. I bet allot of people will be shocked.

320w is 320w. Doesn't matter the source. My 250w halides produce very little heat. They don't heat up my tank or room they're in.

Not to mention no LED on market sniffs a halide spectrum. Tullio at ReefBrite has some awesome info coming out on all of this shortly. It's totally disingenuous for Orphek to claim "direct halide replacement."
 

mtraylor

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@rtparty
Hey I'm not sure you read the posts completely before you started to defend your 250w no heat problems. The comparison is the 320w LED fixture to 400w MH. This fixture is rated beyond 250w MH's, so it was not even mentioned. There is no such thing as a 400w MH that doesn't give off excessive heat. I have ran both 250 and 400 MH fixtures for years....and yes I did not have any issues with the 250w.

Also when LEd's are rated for Wattage thats usually everything at 100%. You can run that fixture at whatever power rating you want by ramping up/down power or changing the spectrum. The MH fixture is either on or off. That is it and it the 400w is more like 440 depending on bulb and ballast. I'm just pointing this out, but would take a whole article to explain the power ratings and usage of lights. there are articles on the forum that go over some of the details.

Im excited to see how this thing compares.
 
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rtparty

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@rtparty
Hey I'm not sure you read the posts completely before you started to defend your 250w no heat problems. The comparison is the 320w LED fixture to 400w MH. This fixture is rated beyond 250w MH's, so it was not even mentioned. There is no such thing as a 400w MH that doesn't give off excessive heat. I have ran both 250 and 400 MH fixtures for years....and yes I did not have any issues with the 250w.

Also when LEd's are rated for Wattage thats usually everything at 100%. You can run that fixture at whatever power rating you want by ramping up/down power or changing the spectrum. The MH fixture is either on or off. That is it and it the 400w is more like 440 depending on bulb and ballast. I'm just pointing this out, but would take a whole article to explain the power ratings and usage of lights. there are articles on the forum that go over some of the details.

Im excited to see how this thing compares.

Well, if we want to get into the whole power ratings and ramp up, ramp down we can.

A 400w Radium runs at 360w or so and still has better spectrum. There are few systems that actually need 400w halides.

There are plenty of dimmable halide ballasts on the market these days. So if one wants to they certainly can run a bulb at less wattage for their needs. There isn't a chance this light actually covers 40x40 SPS tank. Physics says it won't happen. Same way none of the LEDs on the market actually cover what they claim.

But I digress...this light is not a halide replacement
 

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@mtraylor - Yes Soon, I have 3 on the way received my DHL shipment confirmation. I plan to post information about them once I have them up and running. They will be going on a new tank build.
 

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