New system Algae Help! 0 phosphates/Nitrates

eLReef

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Hello R2R Team,

I would love to get some help battling this nuisance algae please. I recently upgraded my system. My tank has been set up for about 3 months. I set up my tank using new dry real reef live rock and 1 1/2 bags of new CaribSea live sand. I used BSI coral glue, AquaStik Epoxy and BRS Accelerator to aquascape. I ran carbon and poly filters for the first 2 weeks and did a 50% water change before introducing any corals/livestock. I dipped all my Corals using revive as well. I have been doing 10% weekly water changes every week except for the last 3 weeks I started to do a 10% Biweekly WC to try and raise my nitrates. My phosphates and nitrates have still remained at zero. The algae started of as a diatom bloom and then has turned into a fuzzy brown/burgundy hair looking algae. It has completely covered all of my rock and some of my coral frag plugs. I will write as much information as possible below and include a few pictures:

System:
Redsea Reefer 250
2x MP40QWD
2x XR15W w/Diffusers
Nyos Quantum 120 Skimmer
Cobalt 200w heater
Phosban 150 Reactor (Run GFO max cap 4hrs a day)

Livestock:
Mix Corals
Yellow Tang
Royal Gramma
Designer Clown
Purple Fire Goby
Scarlet Hermits
Red Sea Serpant Star
Astraea Snails
Margarita Snail
Nassarius Snail

Lighting:
11 hours a day at 55% intensity

Feeding:
Everyday: Pinch of spectrum pellets
1/2 cube of brine shrimp with Selcon.
Also add 3 drops of coral vitalizer every day.

Twice a week: Target feed all my corals with 3 x 1/4 teaspoon of reef roids and reef chili.

Maintenance:
I use polyester and change it weekly instead of filter socks.

10% biweekly water changes using RODI water with Red Sea Sea Salt.

Dosing:
I use 6 TBSP of Kalkwasser in my 5gal ATO reservoir.

Parameters:
Ph: 8.1
Alkalinity: 8.3
Calcium: 435
Magnesium: 1,300
Phosphates: 0
Salinity: 35
Temperature: 77
Nitrates: 0

4D17B02B-DD34-4FDA-839C-454940E39C90.jpeg

56C30904-EFBC-4428-B9F0-90EA4DA28EA8.jpeg

A8C3DBBB-A007-4B05-BB1A-E86298D0D74A.jpeg
 

Primetastic

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YoR redfield ratio is out of wack (zero nitrate and phosphate) and you have diatoms/slime as a result.
I went through this myself for close to a year with my Red Sea max e 170. Things improved once I added some clean nitrate and phosphate (neo nitrate and new phosphate). I took my gfo reactor offline today get my phosphates to register and stabilize around 5ppb. Nitrate at 2-3ppm. Things have looked great since these numbers came up and I have not had to start the gfo backup. 2 months and counting with weekly 15 water change. Had to reply because your algae pictures looked exactly like what I was battling.
 

Primetastic

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Your redfield ratio is out of wack (zero nitrate and phosphate) and you have diatoms/slime as a result.
I went through this myself for close to a year with my Red Sea max e 170. Things improved once I added some clean nitrate and phosphate (neo nitrate and new phosphate). I took my gfo reactor offline to get my phosphates to register and stabilize around 5ppb. Nitrate at 2-3ppm. Things have looked great since these numbers came up and I have not had to start the gfo backup. 2 months and counting with weekly 15 water change. Had to reply because your algae pictures looked exactly like what I was battling.
 

Gareth elliott

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I use planted aquaria fertilizer to keep my nitrate and phosphate up. Much cheaper than commercial options. Kh2po4 and NaNo3 can be purchased quite inexpensive and will last a long time. The potassium added by Kh2po4 is negligible at the amounts dosed.

You could also try feeding more, or if carbon dosing or using gfo cut back on both till you get stable readings above 0.
 
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eLReef

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YoR redfield ratio is out of wack (zero nitrate and phosphate) and you have diatoms/slime as a result.
I went through this myself for close to a year with my Red Sea max e 170. Things improved once I added some clean nitrate and phosphate (neo nitrate and new phosphate). I took my gfo reactor offline today get my phosphates to register and stabilize around 5ppb. Nitrate at 2-3ppm. Things have looked great since these numbers came up and I have not had to start the gfo backup. 2 months and counting with weekly 15 water change. Had to reply because your algae pictures looked exactly like what I was battling.

Thank you for your reply. So I should increase my phosphates and nitrates and this should disappear on it own? I had just started doing bieeekly water changes to try and increase my nitrates. Should I go back to doing WC weekly and just turn off my reactor? I only run it for 4 hours a day. Any other suggestion to accelerate the process.
 
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eLReef

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Any other suggestions? Should I brush off the algae in the tank? Cut back on my lights? Do a water change? I added more snails, a lawn mower blenny, wrasse and a dotty back. I also started feeding more. Nitrates are still at zero, phosphorus 4/phosphates .01 after turning gfo reactor off. I looked into carbon dosing what’s the best method and measurements used? Here is another picture of the frag I took out to get a closer look. What kind of algae is it? The fuzz comes off real easy with a brush and turns into a dust but the plug still remains brown.
D7585CC3-A54A-4F04-9562-260E063D2BDB.jpeg
 

Doug3518

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I am going thru this exact dilemma. Did raising the phosphates and nitrates help
 

Doug3518

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I am going thru this exact dilemma. Did raising the phosphates and nitrates help
 

Doug3518

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Did this help.? I am going through the same things just wanted to make sure raising phosphates and nitrates solve this issue. I was using no parks right after my tank cycled and now I cannot get any nitrates for phosphates and I have that brown algae all over my rocks
 

DirtMcGurt

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I've been dealing with the same stuff. Tank is about 6 months old, live rock is about 1 year old tho. Maybe older. 2+ months with undetectable No3 and Po4 at 0.04 or less (redsea tests). I recently started dosing Neonitro and Neiphose. Keeping No3 at 5ppm and Po4 at 0.04. It seems like my duncans and most acans are happier but still not normal. I get my jaebo uv sterilizer tomorrow. I'm really flying blind. Trying random treatments I've read on here. I'm not sure anyone knows how to resolve this, unfortunately.
 
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eLReef

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Did this help.? I am going through the same things just wanted to make sure raising phosphates and nitrates solve this issue. I was using no parks right after my tank cycled and now I cannot get any nitrates for phosphates and I have that brown algae all over my rocks

Hi, I actually did resolve this problem. The fuzzy brown algae is completely gone and my coralline algae has taken off. But I am dealing with another problem though now... I raised my nitrates using neo nitro but I must’ve done it to fast and stressed my Corals... I got lazy and didn’t test until 2 weeks of dosing.. not to mention I turned off my skimmer and didn’t do any water changes. I lost a few corals (JF Dayglow Favia, looney tunes, jack o lantern lepto, tron lepto, WWC Rainbow platy) from STN (slow tissue necrosis). A few others are recovering but were also affected ( Rainbow cloves, space invader pectina) So if your dosing nitrates do slow, gradually and TEST lol..
 

DirtMcGurt

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I've been going slow and my NO3 has never been over 10ppm, usually around 5ppm, since I've been dosing. Glad to hear you're having luck. If a 36 watt UV and a jug of Vibrant doesnt fix mine, on top of everything else I've tried... I'll see what kind of results I get from throwing a hammer into the side of my 75 gallon.
 

Foothill Corals

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Hi, I actually did resolve this problem. The fuzzy brown algae is completely gone and my coralline algae has taken off. But I am dealing with another problem though now... I raised my nitrates using neo nitro but I must’ve done it to fast and stressed my Corals... I got lazy and didn’t test until 2 weeks of dosing.. not to mention I turned off my skimmer and didn’t do any water changes. I lost a few corals (JF Dayglow Favia, looney tunes, jack o lantern lepto, tron lepto, WWC Rainbow platy) from STN (slow tissue necrosis). A few others are recovering but were also affected ( Rainbow cloves, space invader pectina) So if your dosing nitrates do slow, gradually and TEST lol..


Would love to hear how you beat this. It also may help out others with this issue searching for a solution.
 

DirtMcGurt

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Did this help.? I am going through the same things just wanted to make sure raising phosphates and nitrates solve this issue. I was using no parks right after my tank cycled and now I cannot get any nitrates for phosphates and I have that brown algae all over my rocks
Regardless of what method is to be used... from what I've heard/read, zero NO3 is bad. Brightwell's Neonitro isnt too expensive. You may want to start there. If NO3 stays zero for too long then you'll have real algae issues like me.
 
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eLReef

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I've been going slow and my NO3 has never been over 10ppm, usually around 5ppm, since I've been dosing. Glad to hear you're having luck. If a 36 watt UV and a jug of Vibrant doesnt fix mine, on top of everything else I've tried... I'll see what kind of results I get from throwing a hammer into the side of my 75 gallon.

I feel your pain. Believe me I been close to seeing what a slug shell from my mossberg would do to my tank lol.. Sometimes you just have to kind of walk away, breathe, accept that some corals will die and be ready to ride an emotional rollercoaster until your tank is established and balanced.

Would love to hear how you beat this. It also may help out others with this issue searching for a solution.[/QUOTE

Will do.

Regardless of what method is to be used... from what I've heard/read, zero NO3 is bad. Brightwell's Neonitro isnt too expensive. You may want to start there. If NO3 stays zero for too long then you'll have real algae issues like me.

Yup. Testing Nitrate and phosphates are just as important. You will encounter different types of problems if you let them go to zero.
 
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eLReef

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UPDATE and in need of HELP again PLEASE! My tank is now 6 months old, got rid of the fuzzy algae and have grown some beautiful coralline algae but also a different nuisance algae or bacteria has started to grow and to make things worse I have been loosing some expensive pieces :(. I blame it on my laziness and the use of neonitro incorrectly to try and raise my nitrates but I’m not 100% sure. During the process of trying to raise my nitrates I turned off my Skimmer and did not do any water changes for the first 2 weeks. My nitrates were still at zero so on the 3rd week I added 2 capfuls of neonitro for 5 days without testing..(dumb thing to do) After that I started to use Zeofood and Zeobak. I started to grow a greenish/brownish Algae on the sandbed, rocks and some on my Corals. I’m not sure what kind of algae/bacteria it is but it seems to grow in shaded areas more, in between the rocks and over some of the corals. It blows off the rocks pretty easy with a turkey baster. When the algae started forming is when I started to see a number of corals start to decline. It started with the tentacles not coming out, loosing color, Corals Receeding showing the skeleton and then dieing. Corals affected (Scolymia, Pecitinia , blasstomussa, Chalices, Favias). I used a poly filter for a week and did a 20% water change Incase any chemical or metals were present. I also stopped using GFO and bought a Pax Bellum n18 chaeto reactor in hope of it competing with the algae/bacteria. It’s been 4 weeks since I bought the chaeto reactor and I have not seen a difference with the nuisances algae/bacteria and today another coral (Blasto) was affected. Can someone please help me get some answers on what is killing my corals? STN/RTN? What kind of algae/bacteria am I dealing with? Thanks in advance. I’ll add some pictures.

Parameters:
Salinity: 35
PH: 8.14
Alkalinity: 9.3 (higher then usual maybe because 1/2 of my corals have been removed)
Calcium: 447
Magnesium: 1,300
Iodine: .05
Phosphorus: 9
Temperatures: 77
Nitrate: .25
 

DirtMcGurt

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Increasing my nutrients and manually removing the algae, via scrubbing and a H2O2 bath for the rocks, were what seemed to turn my tank around. I had to constantly test and dose N03 and P04 for a few months but then the tank just balanced out and it's been on auto-pilot ever since. I feed kinda heavy and do 30 gal water changes every 3 weeks. Only testing before and after the wc.
 

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