We change only one aspect of that thread: here we need to verify your ammonia test accuracy as a benchmark before we use the three part ammonia test to prove the cycle is done, like Jacks tank on page one example.
When you have all new saltwater and no old, we use this online calculator to add the right amount of dr tims ammonium chloride. We go to one ppm, not two. We don’t use the # of drops from the bottle, we use the calc.
****we must have a clear picture of your ammonia a few hours after a full water change before you add ammonia***. This is your benchmark known zero, whatever color it reads after the full water change. Pic #1 is your actual test for us to see after all new water.
http://www.fishforums.net/aquarium-calculator.htm
we then have you post the pic of the test kit, in clear light, against the color chart and we see if it reads one ppm after dosing which we know to be fact from the calculator. This is pic #2
We know nothing about your cycle until we know your ammonia test works after reset of water. The cycling bacteria will remain stuck to your rocks, ive never seen a failed cycle, I don’t think yours is failed.
does that thread above imply we find true stuck cycles, or false ones on forums
b
ace card: you’ve met the wait time for the 80 year old nitrification cycling chart, written independently of your bottle bac, written for natural contamination. As of now, the entire industry of waste water science would say you’ve cycled but can’t measure it correctly... which is no surprise when google api or Red Sea ammonia kit results. Our calibration step aligns any test for use.
pic #3, the deciding pic, comes 48 hours after pic #2
if it matches pic #2 you’re stuck, dead bottle.
if it matches pic #1 this thread is getting linked in that thread per win #26
we need to see if the kit can even accurately measure one ppm before we trust it.