OP
OP
ReefRookie22
Active Member
Thanks for your comment, I'm interested what are the benefits of a canister filter? Outside of the tank? Better filtration?
New tank set up
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- Thread starter ReefRookie22
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Welcome! Happy to have you here on Reef2Reef! Congrats on the New tank looks like it’s readyHi all, just wanted to introduce myself.
I'm Ali, I live in Bristol, UK.
Just setting up my first tank (25g) which is currently cycling.
Head full to the brim with info, most of it contradictory but have had some great help from LFS.
Looking forward to chatting with you all.
-UWA
Welcome to R2R!
I found a sump to be too large of an area for media treatment ie to expensive Fluval products are great the inside of the unit has 4 foam filters in its own receptacle if you will the pads are about 3 by 1 by 8 inches long. You can substrate anything you like ie ammonia phosphate pads whatever. The other side has 3 stackable baskets that you can put different granular media in That media you put in mesh bags. I like the fact that the water circulates constantly. However you need to aerate the water using a different method ie the waterfall effect of the sump sections or powerboats. I am sure there are other means but to me is very cost effective snd only one motor can fail which over 15 years has not happened, but if it does spare parts are very available. Motors , pipe, fittings ,gaskets, everything. I have seen some pictures here of some very complex beautiful set up, but I am sure way out of my league as to cost
Sorry power heads
OP
OP
ReefRookie22
Active Member
Tank update.
So after yet another fish shop telling me I didn't need a source of ammonia for my nitrifying bacteria and that the tank would cycle fine without I contacted ATM (the makers of the nitrifying bacteria I added) who told me that YES I do need a source of ammonia be it fish or other.
So I decided to add a raw shrimp to my tank to provide the ammonia for the bacteria which have been 10 days without lunch! Sadly the Dr Tim's ammonium chloride that I ordered is unlikely to arrive before Christmas and the ATM person said that the bacteria would last 17 days max without ammonia. So I had to decide between a shrimp, fish food or peeing in the tank which the ATM person said was an option!!
So now I have a sad looking shrimp lounging on my sand bed.
I also appear to have a surface scum that I am trying to agitate into the filter with the power head but doesn't seem to be clearing.
I may be going mad but I'm also concerned that
I can see a slight colouration on my sand bed! The beginnings of diatoms? Surely not as the lights have been off and there are no nutrients in the tank!
All of these issues and I've not even got any fish in the tank yet!!!
Something tells me this is the life of a marine aquarist. Get used to frequent if not constant issues.
I've also turned the temperature up as according to Dr Tim this encourages the growth of nitrifying bacteria and can be adjusted down slowly before adding livestock.
Any and all comments/suggestions welcome.
So after yet another fish shop telling me I didn't need a source of ammonia for my nitrifying bacteria and that the tank would cycle fine without I contacted ATM (the makers of the nitrifying bacteria I added) who told me that YES I do need a source of ammonia be it fish or other.
So I decided to add a raw shrimp to my tank to provide the ammonia for the bacteria which have been 10 days without lunch! Sadly the Dr Tim's ammonium chloride that I ordered is unlikely to arrive before Christmas and the ATM person said that the bacteria would last 17 days max without ammonia. So I had to decide between a shrimp, fish food or peeing in the tank which the ATM person said was an option!!
So now I have a sad looking shrimp lounging on my sand bed.
I also appear to have a surface scum that I am trying to agitate into the filter with the power head but doesn't seem to be clearing.
I may be going mad but I'm also concerned that
All of these issues and I've not even got any fish in the tank yet!!!
Something tells me this is the life of a marine aquarist. Get used to frequent if not constant issues.
I've also turned the temperature up as according to Dr Tim this encourages the growth of nitrifying bacteria and can be adjusted down slowly before adding livestock.
Any and all comments/suggestions welcome.
Last edited:
Welcome to R2R..!!
Compared to a sump it allows you to use smaller amounts of media
christa55
Community Member
WelcomeWelcome to your new home for saltwater reef aquarium resources and fun! Welcome to the family! :D
Gman83
2500 Club Member
Welcome!
I did forget to mention that you get better surface contact between media and water. Due to this your skimmer will be hyper active so I suggest watching it more often to empty cup or connect overflow to a receptacle
OP
OP
ReefRookie22
Active Member
Tank ticking along nicely.
Ammonia starting to decline while Nitrite and Nitrate increasing.
Has been good to have Christmas as a distraction.
Looking forward to getting a fish in the tank when the cycle is finished. Bit nervous as it's my first one.
What do people recommend once the ammonia and nitrite are at 0? Obviously water change but how much?
Anything else I need to do?
Is there an ideal Nitrate level to get the tank to?
Ammonia starting to decline while Nitrite and Nitrate increasing.
Has been good to have Christmas as a distraction.
Looking forward to getting a fish in the tank when the cycle is finished. Bit nervous as it's my first one.
What do people recommend once the ammonia and nitrite are at 0? Obviously water change but how much?
Anything else I need to do?
Is there an ideal Nitrate level to get the tank to?
I did a final test which was recommended in the article that I used. Add 5 ML of ammonia it should be gone next day. As far as water change don't see the point but certainly wont hurt. In the future when you have problems everyone recommends water changes . Take that with a grain of salt. To me it is more important to do any changes one at a time. Not wholesale then if you have a problem you will be pretty certain that it is the problem
The idea of the initial water change is two fold. First it gets you used to the idea of water changes. Second is that after the artificial seeding your Nitrates will probably be a little high. The water change is the fastest and safest way to bring down the Nitrates. Nitrates are not 'dangerous' per se but keeping the Nitrates down will make algae blooms less likely. A good recommendation that has stood the test of time is to do a 10% weekly water change. That should keep the tank in pretty good equilibrium while you are advancing in the hobby.
Nitrate levels are hard to pinpoint for someone else's tank. What works for me may not work for you and vice versa. I would say keep the level above 0 and below 50 or so seems to be safe for most tanks. I target 10-20 in my tank.
I did not mean not to do water changes. I do them religiously just not every time I have problems AS was pointed out to me excessive phosphates stay in the rocks for some time. My understanding from a lfs video stated phosphates are the catalyst for algae I assumed Nitrates as well now confused
Water changes are a good first defense for most issues other than disease and even then it can't hurt. All of the salt mixes I know of have a good balance of elements and most problems are caused by an imbalance of some sort. It is wise to do only small changes and not too many changes at once but a water change is usually a good place to start.
Phosphates and Nitrates are the 'fuel' for algae. Phosphates are the bigger issue but both need to be kept fairly low to discourage algae growth. They should not be zero however as that can trigger dinoflagellates plus your corals, if any, also need the Nitrates and Phosphates to grow. It is all a balancing act. If you look into fertilizer it is mainly Nitrogen compounds, Phosphorus compounds and Potassium compounds.
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