Nitrate and Phosphate control

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swanedog

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Hey guys,
Looking for some advice on trying to control nitrates and phosphates. We have two setups.

The first setup is a 180 gallon predator setup with an E-Shopps E-300 with refugium (chateo and macro algae) containing a soldier fish, Koran angel, large porcupine puffer, Niger trigger, humu humu trigger, approximately 24” spotted moray eel, and roughly 18” brown-banded bamboo shark.

The second setup is a 55 gallon beginner reef with an Aquatop cfuv-400 mkii. We have a heavier bio load in this tank with a juvenile emperor angel, blue hippo tang, sailfin tang, sunburst butterfly, lawnmower blenny, bicolor fox face, 2 fire fish, small sweet lips, melanarus wrasse, and 3 clowns, snowflake eel, 2 chocolate chip starfish, coral banded starfish, and an electric flame scallop. For coral, we have a lobo, torch, devils finger, anemone, xoanthids, pulsing Xenia, and monti-digitora (I think that’s what this is called).

We have been doing bi-weekly water changes and sometimes weekly in the 55 gallon between 15-25 gallons. In the 180, we have done 3-4 water changes generally around 30 gallons but Monday of this week we did a 75 gallon change.

Our phosphates fluctuate weekly from 1-1.6 in the 55 and have been similar in the 180. Nitrates have fluctuated weekly as well from 20-42 in both tanks.

I just wanted to see if there were any other options to help control these numbers past the water changes. We have lost a candy cane coral, but I do believe that’s because the par may have been too intense where we had them placed in the tank as they got “bleached.” I would like to upgrade the 55 gallon reef to something around a 125 with a sump, but need to work on lowering these numbers now as we look for an upgrade. I’m sure the bioload may be a big factor in the 55 but any advice is appreciated.

Thank you.
 
The nitrate is fine.

How are you measuring phosphate?

There are many ways to reduce phosphate. If you do not have any tangs, lanthanum used slowly and carefully may be a good way to go. GFO is an alternative, but will be costly.

Growing macroalgae may be a good long term solution.
 
Been using the API spin test at the LFS. Recently bought a Spintouch ff here on R2R market place and made sure its calibrated using the calibration disk. Also have a Hanna phosphate ulr checker. One time I got a reading of .68 on that but since then have consistently been getting the flashing .90 on both tanks.
 
ok, so the Hanna maxes out? You can get a reading by diluting with new salt water to bring it on scale.

I’d consider lanthanum or GFO.
 
ok, so the Hanna maxes out? You can get a reading by diluting with new salt water to bring it on scale.

I’d consider lanthanum or GFO.
By doing that, you do approx 5ml of tank water and 5ml of fresh mixed salt Rodi and adding new reagent correct?

Just took it to another local store where I had nitrates and phosphates tested on their big Hanna system. On the 180 nitrates were 16.5 and phosphates .9. On the 55 reef nitrates were 16 and phosphates .92.

Is the GFO a reactor? And what’s lanthanum? Sorry still newer to this hobby.
 
GFO is granular ferric oxide. It is a granular solid that you use in a media bag,,or in a reactor or canister filter.

Lanthanum is a dissolved chemical you add to the tank which precipitates
Lanthanum phosphate. It sometimes causes issues for tangs.

Add equal parts new salt water and tank water, than collect and test a sample of that, and multiply the answer by 2.
 

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