Nitrate Reduction Without Skimmer

[LbulletM]

I currently have a 29 gallon tank with nitrate levels that bounce around with water changes. Usually between 15 to ~40ish. All of my other levels stay pretty consistent at good levels, though I do want to add a doser eventually for alk/cal once I have a few more corals utilizing it. Noticed some tissue recession on the stalks of my Euphyllias last night and when I tested, I had on the upper end of my nitrate range (I started feeding corals a little heavier). After a quick 5 gallon water change (~20+% after accounting for displacement), everything looked a lot happier. Since I plan on upgrading to a much larger system within a year or so, I do not really want to in invest in an HOB skimmer. I had been doing weekly water changes, but switched to bi-weekly when my torch looked happier at that interval. Going back to weekly.

What are the best ways to manage nitrates without a skimmer? I would like to maintain levels around 15ppm +-5ppm (my corals look VERY happy in this range). What absorbents/neutralizers actually work, and how do they work with maintaining levels rather than dropping them below my range?

I have a modified AC110 with the InTank media basket that has a free section, so some kind of media would be easy to add. I currently run ChemiPure Blue in one of the sections, but have yet to test my Phosphates (just received the Hannah Checker).

 

[miyags]

Depending on what type of fish you have, you could try adding some macroalgae or even add a refugium, or even a algae reactor.

 

[andrewey]

My personal opinion- I don't believe in, nor do I trust absorbents/neutralizers. They look like an attractive solution, however they have several pitfalls and you'll notice larger tanks or experienced reefers never incorporate them into their system.

At your size tank, I would simply just do more frequent or larger water changes. However, I would say your largest source of nutrients is probably what you're putting in- make sure you're not overfeeding your fish/corals. I would also take the time to clean the tank- use a turkey baster to clean the rocks/sand or vacuum the sand bed to remove as much stagnant detritus as you can. After that, continue with water changes or possibly incorporate macro algae for nutrient export.

It's easiest to focus on export, but one of the quickest solutions for the nutrient balance is to ensure to input isn't too much :)

 

[Jason mack]

Large WC .!!!

 

[beaslbob]

Depending on what type of fish you have, you could try adding some macroalgae or even add a refugium, or even a algae reactor.

+1

 

[LbulletM]

Depending on what type of fish you have, you could try adding some macroalgae or even add a refugium, or even a algae reactor.

Only three fish at the moment. Two Ocellaris and a Potter's Angel. I do have some macro in the display (from my live rock) as well as some Chaeto in my media basket, though it's not doing too hot. I need to add a light. Waiting on the upgrade to do a true refugium.

My personal opinion- I don't believe in, nor do I trust absorbents/neutralizers. They look like an attractive solution, however they have several pitfalls and you'll notice larger tanks or experienced reefers never incorporate them into their system.

At your size tank, I would simply just do more frequent or larger water changes. However, I would say your largest source of nutrients is probably what you're putting in- make sure you're not overfeeding your fish/corals. I would also take the time to clean the tank- use a turkey baster to clean the rocks/sand or vacuum the sand bed to remove as much stagnant detritus as you can. After that, continue with water changes or possibly incorporate macro algae for nutrient export.

It's easiest to focus on export, but one of the quickest solutions for the nutrient balance is to ensure to input isn't too much :)

Definitely cognizant of my inputs. Like I said, feeding my corals a little more heavily recently since I have a bunch of new comers. May need to back off anyways. I do baste my rocks pretty frequently (before water changes), but I have been neglecting my sand bed the last 2 changes because of corals that were acclimating down there. Lots of algae in the sand thanks to the combination of not turning it and the higher nutrients. All of that being said, I have reduced my fish feeding to every other day now that I'm using smaller Omega One pellets. Had to make the switch because my clowns couldn't handle the NLS pellets that I originally was feeding my Angel. It was easy with him, I would just add one pellet at a time until he stopped eating.

Large WC .!!!

.

Haha yes. Well aware of the effects of a water change. Was more looking for something to level out my nitrates between weekly water changes without reducing nitrates too much.

 

[CoralNerd]

Bacteria and carbon dosing

 

[LbulletM]

Bacteria and carbon dosing

I had considered this, but not sure I want to commit to it, yet. Still fairly noobish.

 

[CoralNerd]

I had considered this, but not sure I want to commit to it, yet. Still fairly noobish.

Look at yourself in the mirror, say that three times, then come back and talk lol

 

[LbulletM]

Will a newer noob appear behind me if I do it in the dark?

Haha it's more that I haven't done the level of research that I expect of myself to jump into it yet.

 

[Erick Camargo]

.

 

[Erick Camargo]

You could try carbon dosing and bacteria in a half of standard dosing instructions. I have a RSM250 without skimmer for almost 2 years with some small fish (except a tang naso blond) and I keep nitrates around 5ppm. (My tank pic is attached to this post).

 

[leptang]

I use distilled white vinegar as a carbon source to feed bacteria. I have also driven nitrate and phosphate down to zero using carbon dosing. I actually had to start dosing nitrates and phosphate so my corals keep a nice color, don't go to zero nitrates and phosphate you could end up with dinoflagellates.

 

[cwk84]

You could try carbon dosing and bacteria in a half of standard dosing instructions. I have a RSM250 without skimmer for almost 2 years with some small fish (except a tang naso blond) and I keep nitrates around 5ppm. (My tank pic is attached to this post).

Is your picture edited (saturation boost?) I can't possibly imagine a tank being so colorful. I've never seen a tank that punchy in real life.

What kind of carpet is this and what kind of coral is the green one with the long tentacles?

Have your corals reacted negatively to carbon dosing? What are you dosing?

 

[BoomCorals]

If you’re newer to reefing don’t use something like carbon dosing, etc. It’s too easy to completely strip nutrients. Stick with water changes or do a fuge or turf scrubber or algae reactor.

 

[Erick Camargo]

Is your picture edited (saturation boost?) I can't possibly imagine a tank being so colorful. I've never seen a tank that punchy in real life.

What kind of carpet is this and what kind of coral is the green one with the long tentacles?

Have your corals reacted negatively to carbon dosing? What are you dosing?

Hi there cwk84.
Thank you!

There is no point of sale production in this picture.
This pic was shot with a canon T5i 70-300mm using UV filter and the corals are under 470nm and royal lights in 100% and Whites in 35% of power. The carpet anemone it’s a Haddoni and the green one with long tentacles it’s a Torch coral.

Actually my corals are ok with Carbon dosing. But in the beginning they lose some part of its colors, so, I changed dosing process to half of dosing standard and Now dosing weekly 3ml for 65g tank of destiled vinegar.

And I’m using a product called GROW from ReefShare. It’s a amino and vitamin combined with trace elements.

 

[C-Reefer]

I strongly advocate the use of algae. If you don't want to spend any money, and will be upgrading in a few weeks, just get some macro algae like cheato, and stick it in a breeder box somewhere under the light.

 

[Gareth elliott]

Another natural way to reduce nutrients is simply more corals. As your tank contains more desirable inhabitants they will outcompete the undesirable ones. Then your water changes become an export of other elements(pigments, toxins etc.) and import of required elements.

 

[Erick Camargo]

I strongly advocate the use of algae. If you don't want to spend any money, and will be upgrading in a few weeks, just get some macro algae like cheato, and stick it in a breeder box somewhere under the light.

I agree!

 

[Kyle Rinker]

Without an excellent skimmer, your carbon dosing would be much less effective. Combine that with the fact that it often takes 60 + days for it to begin to work well and the fact that you are planning on upgrading within the next year, this may not be the best method for you. I agree with the idea of using an algae reactor in your case. All you will need is a little pump and then the reactor and light source. It takes up a very small footprint but it's very effective. I used to use a skimmer in my 40 gallon all-in-one but now only use the reactor to control nitrates. Despite heavy feedings and little to no water changes, my nitrates remain between 0 and 0. 25. When the reactor becomes full of algae you just remove most of it. This is by far the most effective method I have ever seen at controlling nitrates (and it helps with phosphates) with the most minimal effort. Regardless of what method you use, I would do at least three 30% water changes spaced a couple days apart to give your method a head start.