Nitrates through the roof help

wolfthefallen

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Fighting Nitrates in new tanks is rough; When I first set up my tank and added fish after the first cycle it was rough to keep Nitrates under control. I am still fighting with them but nearly as bad now. I manage to keep my between 15-20 ppm.

First thing first is to continue to do 20-25% water changes, as this is the quickest way to reduce Nitrates at this time. I know you have said at this point you have do 100% water change over the past month, the thing you have to remember is doing 20-25% reduces the Nirates in the system by that much at that point in time. Here is an example
Lets say we have 100ppm Nitrates and it goes up by 10ppm every week due to feedings.
So we do are first water change on week one when we hit 100ppm this will drop it to 75ppm. by the time we start our next water change it is at 85 ppm so after the 25% water change we get roughly 64ppm .. so forth and so.. This is why we recommend doing 20-25% every day until you hit your goal, nitrates will rise a little every day after a water the change so it will take more changes then you think. Even Fish poop will eventually add nitrates to the water after the bacteria starts to break it down. Don't panic just keep on top of it.. Once you hit your goal keep an eye on it to get an idea of your bioload.

Second I would recommend choosing a method for Nitrate export such as Carbon dosing (NO-POX, BioPellets, Vodka, Vinegar, ect) , Macro Algae export, algae scrubber, ect.. It does not matter which, the big thing you have to keep in mind is any of them takes TIME to start working. NOPOX can start to take up to a month or two to full get it to start exporting Both Nitrates and Phosphates, same with BioPellets, both which require a Skimmer! The macro Algae primarily Chaetomorpha (commonly Referenced as Chaeto) requires a refugium or Algae Reactor, and takes time too, but you have to remove all the grown Algae about once a month or so..

Research which would work best for your system pick one and run with it for about 4 months and see if it is working for you. Either way reduce the Amount you are feeding, and stay on top of your water changes. This is a game of patients and staying on top of maintains and remembering a little goes a long ways in food.

Test and Test often during the first 6 months of your tank, all parameters, if think it is wrong tank water samples into your LFS they will generally test it for you, or buy another brand kit for testing and compare. Remember these are hobby grade test kits and have an error range. Once you get everything stable you can ease off the testing to every week to two weeks, and eventually once a month.. Watch your coral and fish, they will show signs when something is out of balance and if you keep a log of all the test results you will get to the point of knowing your tank and understand what is out of balance and how to slowly adjust things to not but your livestock under more stress ;)
 
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JEREMY HELMINIAK

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Fighting Nitrates in new tanks is rough; When I first set up my tank and added fish after the first cycle it was rough to keep Nitrates under control. I am still fighting with them but nearly as bad now. I manage to keep my between 15-20 ppm.

First thing first is to continue to do 20-25% water changes, as this is the quickest way to reduce Nitrates at this time. I know you have said at this point you have do 100% water change over the past month, the thing you have to remember is doing 20-25% reduces the Nirates in the system by that much at that point in time. Here is an example
Lets say we have 100ppm Nitrates and it goes up by 10ppm every week due to feedings.
So we do are first water change on week one when we hit 100ppm this will drop it to 75ppm. by the time we start our next water change it is at 85 ppm so after the 25% water change we get roughly 64ppm .. so forth and so.. This is why we recommend doing 20-25% every day until you hit your goal, nitrates will rise a little every day after a water the change so it will take more changes then you think. Even Fish poop will eventually add nitrates to the water after the bacteria starts to break it down. Don't panic just keep on top of it.. Once you hit your goal keep an eye on it to get an idea of your bioload.

Second I would recommend choosing a method for Nitrate export such as Carbon dosing (NO-POX, BioPellets, Vodka, Vinegar, ect) , Macro Algae export, algae scrubber, ect.. It does not matter which, the big thing you have to keep in mind is any of them takes TIME to start working. NOPOX can start to take up to a month or two to full get it to start exporting Both Nitrates and Phosphates, same with BioPellets, both which require a Skimmer! The macro Algae primarily Chaetomorpha (commonly Referenced as Chaeto) requires a refugium or Algae Reactor, and takes time too, but you have to remove all the grown Algae about once a month or so..

Research which would work best for your system pick one and run with it for about 4 months and see if it is working for you. Either way reduce the Amount you are feeding, and stay on top of your water changes. This is a game of patients and staying on top of maintains and remembering a little goes a long ways in food.

Test and Test often during the first 6 months of your tank, all parameters, if think it is wrong tank water samples into your LFS they will generally test it for you, or buy another brand kit for testing and compare. Remember these are hobby grade test kits and have an error range. Once you get everything stable you can ease off the testing to every week to two weeks, and eventually once a month.. Watch your coral and fish, they will show signs when something is out of balance and if you keep a log of all the test results you will get to the point of knowing your tank and understand what is out of balance and how to slowly adjust things to not but your livestock under more stress ;)
I've had the bio balls in my system since the start as well as in the tank all of this stuff came from, I also have a skimmer and I have been using nopox since October.
 

wolfthefallen

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Have you been following the dosing recommendations for NOPOX and have you checked the Nitrates with a different type of test kit or have had your LFS test your water to confirm?

In addition BioBalls I great for nitrifying bacteria, This is the bacteria that takes ammonia to Nitrites to Nitrates ;)..
 
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JEREMY HELMINIAK

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Yes I've been following the dosing procedure for the nopox, and no I haven't bought any other test kits no I haven't gone to my lfs because it's two and a half hours away, I have used it on another tank and it tested fine. I have bio balls in a chamber of my sump.
 

marlinmon

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I have no idea that's why I'm looking for help, unless im missing something in the dosing directions the bottle is a bit hard to understand.
I don’t know if it’s possible, but could something be in your tank causing the nitrates test measurement to read incorrectly?
 

Jonathan Troutt

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Not sure if this was mentioned or not but I have been having a similar issue with sky high nitrates. I found that I had undectable levels of phosphate in my tank.

I started dosing phosphates and have noticed not only a drop in nitrates but also a vast improvement in coral coloration.
 
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JEREMY HELMINIAK

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Not sure if this was mentioned or not but I have been having a similar issue with sky high nitrates. I found that I had undectable levels of phosphate in my tank.

I started dosing phosphates and have noticed not only a drop in nitrates but also a vast improvement in coral coloration.
What did you use?
 
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JEREMY HELMINIAK

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As of right now these are the test I just ran dkh is 10
Phosphate is .25-.5
Calcium is 500
Nitrate is gonna end up between 80ppm and 160 included is a pic before it even sat the five minutes to let color develope.

20190108_155728.jpg
 
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JEREMY HELMINIAK

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Magn
As of right now these are the test I just ran dkh is 10
Phosphate is .25-.5
Calcium is 500
Nitrate is gonna end up between 80ppm and 160 included is a pic before it even sat the five minutes to let color develope.

20190108_155728.jpg
[/QUOT
Magnesium is a bit high at 1320
 

Skynyrd Fish

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Jeremy tell us about your filtration and set up? PO4 is high. NO3 is also. But your tank will need PO4 to NO3 to process both. I dose a small amount of NO3 daily to help keep PO4 .03/.04 on my hanna. It also sounds like you have a cycle going on.
 
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JEREMY HELMINIAK

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Jeremy tell us about your filtration and set up? PO4 is high. NO3 is also. But your tank will need PO4 to NO3 to process both. I dose a small amount of NO3 daily to help keep PO4 .03/.04 on my hanna. It also sounds like you have a cycle going on.
Yes I know those are both high, filtration is a 40 gallon sump two filter socks, small chamber with bio balls in it next chamber has eshops r150 skimmer then the chamber with return pump in it, I also have a media reactor with dr Tim's Pearl's in it that was just added about a week ago. I guess I dont get how this tank would or why it would still be cycling it's been up since the first week of September and only thing that wasnt from the old tank was the sand bed. All live rock is five years old with the exception of maybe 10 or 15 pounds of some new stuff I put in it.
 

tankstudy

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Bacteria in a bottle does wonders to lower Nitrate.

Doesn't generally lower nitrate from my experience, not to mention, if the bottle did have the strain of bacteria to lower nitrate, you'd have to produce an environment which is very low in oxygen in order to get the bacteria to use nitrate and convert that in to nitrogen.
 

hyprc

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Keep on the nopox and make sure your skimmer is producing consistent "weak black tea"-like skimmate as often as possible (how long were those bottles of Dr. Tim's laying around? Were they still viable?)
 

ckalupa

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Bottle bacteria (Fritz Turbo 900) or Dr Tim’s or the MB7 for slower action. Purfiltrum bags usually work pretty quick and I think can be “re-charged” when used up.
 

Scotty Buttons

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I think phosphate that high is a bigger problem. As long as you don't have SPS nitrates that high shouldn't be a major problem. But phosphates that high can halt coral growth and even kill them
 

Jdavison911

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^^^^ What he said. PO4 is high. Get some GFO and put in a cheese cloth bag and add to the sump half of what recommendation is. Once you get your PO4 down to .03-.05 I would add some cheato to an area of your sump with a cheap par 38 led from lowes and let it go to work. You mentioned you was running filter socks, I would also change those daily or every other day to keep them from building up and compounding your problems. Ive been in your same situation and just beat my head on the wall. I went back to basics and worked it out with success in about 2 months. Small changes, measure the change over a couple weeks then adjust, concentrate on what is the biggest harm to your tank.
 

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