Test kits swinging parameters

KurtReef

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I have a Cade Reef 1800 that is a few months old. I transferred everything from my established 40-gallon reef, which had been running for about a year. The system had been stable, but over the last two weeks I started getting what I assume to be dinoflagellates.

Current filtration includes:
20-gallon refugium growing chaeto
Trigger Systems roller mat
Octo 300-gallon protein skimmer
UV sterilizer

I normally do water changes every two weeks, but after seeing these test results I started doing roughly 20% water changes every other day the last week. Despite that, nitrate still seems very high and nitrite appears to swing between tests. Most coral still looks okay, but a few are not opening as fully as normal or are just unhappy.
I tested the nitrate from my rodi water and it shows zero.

I am wondering if the API test kit could be inaccurate, since I have heard mixed things about them, or if my nutrients are actually unbalanced with nitrate staying high while phosphate and nitrite bottom out intermittently.

Test results taken 2 days apart with the last one a few hrs ago
ParameterTest 1Test 2Test 3
Ammonia0 ppm0 ppm0 ppm
Nitrite0 ppm1.5 ppm0.25 ppm
Nitrate60 ppm75 ppm60 ppm
Phosphate0.25 ppm0 ppm0.25 ppm
Calcium500 ppm500 ppm500 ppm
KH125.3 ppm125.3 ppm125.3 ppm
dKH777
pH888

IMG_5970.jpeg
 

Mebbid

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The tests aren't accurate enough or sensitive enough for our needs. The phosphate test for example, measured at a minimum 0.25ppm on api when in reality we are shooting for half that.

Id suggest at the absolute minimum getting some salifert test kits. They are a low price option, but by far are used by more aquarists than any other option out there. Personally, I use hannah for dkh and phosphate, they are quite a bit more expensive but seem to be easier to use.

Your phosphate COULD be 0.0. If it was, that would heavily restrict the ability of the chaeto to remove the nitrate from the water. How old is your tank?
 
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KurtReef

KurtReef

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The tests aren't accurate enough or sensitive enough for our needs. The phosphate test for example, measured at a minimum 0.25ppm on api when in reality we are shooting for half that.

Id suggest at the absolute minimum getting some salifert test kits. They are a low price option, but by far are used by more aquarists than any other option out there. Personally, I use hannah for dkh and phosphate, they are quite a bit more expensive but seem to be easier to use.

Your phosphate COULD be 0.0. If it was, that would heavily restrict the ability of the chaeto to remove the nitrate from the water. How old is your tank?
The rock of over a year old from my established 40 g that I transferred about 2 months ago into this new one
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I don’t know if the phosphate test is useful enough to guide actions. Nitrate is a bit high, if accurate, but not an emergency. Everything else is fine.
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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The API phosphate test gives a range, so your phosphate level is in between zero and .25, thats how it works, so you need a different tester, IMO hanna is the best phosphate tester.

I don't know what is your fish load or how much you feed, but I feel the nitrates are way too high for the excessive filtration that you have. Either the test is very wrong or your tank is very 'dirty'. To me the info doesn't match, so I think better test kits is the best route IMO
 
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KurtReef

KurtReef

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The API phosphate test gives a range, so your phosphate level is in between zero and .25, thats how it works, so you need a different tester, IMO hanna is the best phosphate tester.

I don't know what is your fish load or how much you feed, but I feel the nitrates are way too high for the excessive filtration that you have. Either the test is very wrong or your tank is very 'dirty'. To me the info doesn't match, so I think better test kits is the best route IMO
Thanks you. And for bio load and feeding I have a 6in sailfin tang, lawnmower blenny,pink spot watchman goby,pair of pink skunk clowns,and an orchid dottyback. Imo verry light stocking for about 240 gallons of water. They get fed everyday about a eighth of a frozen cube and some nori every couple days for the tang
 

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