No water change. Does it work long term?

As I've mentioned before, I have an inherent skepticism about the no water change thing, but I also can't argue against @VintageReefer 's tank. It's gorgeous.
I also don’t run a skimmer or any mechanical filtration
The Wire Reaction GIF
 
As I've mentioned before, I have an inherent skepticism about the no water change thing, but I also can't argue against @VintageReefer 's tank. It's gorgeous.
For what it's worth if I could automate water changes I would. I will spend the money in order to minimize maintenance tasks. But since I can't automate water changes I'm opting for no water changes. Or at least very few water changes.
 
I've had my RSR 350 running for 1.5 years now. Up until a month ago I didn't do any water changes. I dose all for reef. I export phosphates via chaeto and gfo. My phosphates usually fluctuate between .1 and .3. I can't seem to produce nitrates naturally so I'm dosing neo nitro. Nitrates are usually around the 10ppm range.

Around 2 months ago I started experiencing coral deaths. What stopped it was a 15% water change. I'm clueless as to what was in the water that a 15% water change fixed. Also recently I added a bubblegum, forest fire Digi, and Monti cap under 200par lighting. They all turned white. I heard lack of iodine can cause that?

So I'm curious if the no water change route can work long term or if I should incorporate monthly or bi-monthly water changes?
I think if you want to do no water changes you do have to do some sort of ICP tests somewhat frequently. Once every 2-3 months.... Speaking of which I'm due for one, but trying to get my phosphates under control before I finally send one off.

I've pretty much not done any water changes after the first month that I started. Almost a year in. No issues.
 
I think if you want to do no water changes you do have to do some sort of ICP tests somewhat frequently. Once every 2-3 months.... Speaking of which I'm due for one, but trying to get my phosphates under control before I finally send one off.

I've pretty much not done any water changes after the first month that I started. Almost a year in. No issues.
Yes I am planning on doing ICP tests. I'm just trying to pick one whose results I can trust. I've read that ATI isn't very accurate. I got one done by them.
 
I also don’t run a skimmer or any mechanical filtration
The Wire Reaction GIF
I also run a tank with mixed LPS and SPS with no mechanical filtration and skimmer, and have had much success. The big thing for me is that I often get a really ugly biofilm on my water surface, and those are the times where my water is a little cloudy as well. I think my tank frequently gets bacterial issues. How do you handle this--is your water crystal clear all the time?
 
I have over $4k in acro frags in my frag tank alone, not counting my display. i dont want to find out what would happen if I'll stop water change, but I do complain about the price increase of salt in last few years.
 

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I've had my RSR 350 running for 1.5 years now. Up until a month ago I didn't do any water changes. I dose all for reef. I export phosphates via chaeto and gfo. My phosphates usually fluctuate between .1 and .3. I can't seem to produce nitrates naturally so I'm dosing neo nitro. Nitrates are usually around the 10ppm range.

Around 2 months ago I started experiencing coral deaths. What stopped it was a 15% water change. I'm clueless as to what was in the water that a 15% water change fixed. Also recently I added a bubblegum, forest fire Digi, and Monti cap under 200par lighting. They all turned white. I heard lack of iodine can cause that?

So I'm curious if the no water change route can work long term or if I should incorporate monthly or bi-monthly water changes?
Studies have shown that people who do reg water changes have more long term success than those who do not (of our course there are always a small percentage that are outliers). It exports harmful level of toxins and adds trace elements that fish and reef requires. At Public Aquariums, the long term success of fish/corals/clams living up to 40 yrs is because of regular water changes , upkeep of the gravel bed, and filter socks . BTW, No canister filters are used to avoid leaching nitrates/phosphates!
 
No water changes. But I would never tell someone they are a bad idea or to stop. I just show with alternate methods you don’t need them. I keep all types of corals except leathers / softies
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I think its about time for a frag tank tied into your system! Maybe we could see through the front glass at that point :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

Very nice tank either way!
 
What do you do for nutrient export ?
Algae turf scrubber

Cryptic zone in sump with nonphotosynthetic live sponge and lots of live rock

I use what I call MSB - medium sand bed
In past I used dsb - 6-7” of sugar fine sand but I feel that becomes a time bomb. I find ideal results over the last 10 years with MSB which is 3-5” sandbed.

4” sand bed in sump refugium chamber
3-5” sandbed in tank
A large media bag of refugite
2x50gal pouches chemi pure elite changed every 2-3 months

That’s my setup for filtration
 
I also run a tank with mixed LPS and SPS with no mechanical filtration and skimmer, and have had much success. The big thing for me is that I often get a really ugly biofilm on my water surface, and those are the times where my water is a little cloudy as well. I think my tank frequently gets bacterial issues. How do you handle this--is your water crystal clear all the time?
My water is clear all the time. I have been asked how I control “particles” in the water. I don’t have an answer because I don’t have them and never thought about them

For a biofilm on the surface, it sounds like there isn’t enough surface turnover/agitation - so aim powerheads towards surface or adjust return pump so water goes in the overflow faster
 
I think its about time for a frag tank tied into your system! Maybe we could see through the front glass at that point :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

Very nice tank either way!
I hear ya!

It was worse last week lol. I actually just eliminated 4 frag racks to free up front glass space. That’s why the left side is open

My system is acting as a display and a frag tank. All the shelf’s are growing out frags to stock my new tank once I finish setting it up

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I hear ya!

It was worse last week lol. I actually just eliminated 4 frag racks to free up front glass space. That’s why the left side is open

My system is acting as a display and a frag tank. All the shelf’s are growing out frags to stock my new tank once I finish setting it up

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Heck yea looking good!
 
Heck yea looking good!
Thanks brotha!

I saw your post and was like oh come on! Literally 2 days after I spent 2 hours relocating most of my gonis and torches, consolidating and grouping frags, and removed 4 magnet racks from the front glass and I get a comment about how my front glass is too full lol
 
When the new tank is setup, I’m going to transfer all this excess over, and in a weekend I’ll go from 1 overstocked tank and 1 empty tank to two fully stocked incredible tanks. Insta-filled reef with captive raised coral I’ve been growing out for 3-12 months
 
Thanks brotha!

I saw your post and was like oh come on! Literally 2 days after I spent 2 hours relocating most of my gonis and torches, consolidating and grouping frags, and removed 4 magnet racks from the front glass and I get a comment about how my front glass is too full lol

Sorry couldnt help it.. Had to be the first one here to say it
 
Sorry couldnt help it.. Had to be the first one here to say it
It’s cool! And valid! I have one more shelf I can eliminate, it’s got a few random things on it I still need to figure out placement for. One item is high value, I can’t risk anything happening to it. Might end up getting its own small shelf

Tank is always a work in progress!
 
It’s cool! And valid! I have one more shelf I can eliminate, it’s got a few random things on it I still need to figure out placement for. One item is high value, I can’t risk anything happening to it. Might end up getting its own small shelf

Tank is always a work in progress!

Well whatever doesnt fit I need to fill my new system, send it my way :face-with-tears-of-joy:

That new torch looks like it gained some coral as well!
 
I have a Trident to monitor alk/ca/mg but have not tested for N&P (or sent in ICP test) for years! I’m afraid to check but things are growing so why bother? ;)

IME - when you get bigger in water volume, WC will be a pain so you’ll need a different mindset completely.
I think the bigger message is that we perhaps rely too much on testing - and not enough on paying attention to what the tank looks like. I think its an interesting concept to think that one doesn't need to check N and P - but they do need to check for example iodine - and dose it x ml every day (pick your dozen elements here). I have no issue with less testing I did N and P perhaps 1 time eery 2-3 months and alkalinity every week at most. Once a tank is established, is being fed, my guess is you could run it without out ICP's every month or whatever it is - and minimal if any water changes. However, if you look at a lot of tanks - the ones that tend to be 'successful' (and agree its a circular argument) are the ones with more coral and a lower fish stocking density tend to be the ones that require less of these mineral 'tweeks' - and also less water changes.
 

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