NoPox Experience-Coral Responses

Mppp

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Would like to share my experience with NoPox over the last 5 weeks most of it being good although my BTAs seem to HATE IT. (I was dealing with cyano)

Some Background of tank first: 80 gallon mixed reef containing BTAs, zoas, many trumpets, trachyphyllia, sun coral, purple stylophora, bicolor euphyllia (torch) with 10 gallon sump with high output protein skimmer, some high capacity bio media balls, filter cups w/ sera floss balls and Red Sea carbon in a reactor.

Weeks 1&2: My test kits were Salifert prior to getting started and I believe my nitrates were in the 15-20 range and phosphates over 35 ppm. I have thus switched to Hanna low range nitrate and phosphate checkers and tests after one week of daily low dosages of 4 ml. Phosphates were then measured at 33 (after 1st week 23 after 2nd) and nitrate over 5 because it's a low range checker so I'm guessing still in 15 ppm range.

Week 3: Kept daily dosage at about 4 ml, but added some phosguard in a mesh bag tossed in skimmer chamber to help bring down phosphates a bit quicker even though Red Sea advises not too on their FAQ for NoPox, but I have read various threads on here where reefers did the same with no negative effects to NoPox results. The Red Sea information page/FAQ is quite informative and does state that phosphate beneficial bacteria does take much longer to start working was the reason I opted to help bring phosphates to expedite process some. End of this week is where I noticed by BTAs starting to hate life as I believe I brought down phosphates too fast were now reading 14, no change to nitrates on low range tester but believe they did come down is my guesstimate as next couple of weeks will start seeing results on Hanna ULR Nitrate checker. Notice trumpets starting to brighten up/spread/fill out more and euphyllia really started brightening up.

Week 4: Upped daily dosage to 6 ml (still way below recommended dosage per Red Sea) for tank size and approximate nitrate/phosphate levels. BTAs really looked awful floating around, but all other corals starting really thriving new trumpets growing in some previous dead spots, cyano not coming in everyday like it had been for a couple of months requiring daily substrate turning. I also invested in a better/bigger icecap 4000k to replace my jebaos that just were started to lose power. Phosphates at about 7 as I lowered amount of phosguard put in sump as BTAs now I'm wondering if they're going to survive (again thinking rapid phosphate and nitrate drop). Nitrates showed their first reading on Hanna ULR checker at 4.95 (hilarious actually as minimum is 5.00 ppm), but hey finally a reading!

Week 5: Upped daily dosage to 8 ml and decided to not use any phosguard any longer to see if nopox phosphate bacterias will start kicking in. Tested tonight at end of week 5 and phosphates are 6 ppm and nitrate .60 ppm (massive drop from 4.95 in one week, but who possibly consistent if I truly was at 20 ppm to begin with per Salifert test. BTAs awful cyano still lingering but only have to move around substrate every 3-4 days now and perhaps new wave maker is helping w/ water movement as well.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone considering NoPox (in a rambling post more than following any true scientific results consistency). I am curious to others experience or thoughts on my BTAs suffering through this NoPox treatment though as I haven't found much of anything on how they react on forum or online?
 

taricha

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My test kits were Salifert prior to getting started and I believe my nitrates were in the 15-20 range and phosphates over 35 ppm. I have thus switched to Hanna low range nitrate and phosphate checkers and tests after one week of daily low dosages of 4 ml. Phosphates were then measured at 33 (after 1st week 23 after 2nd)
Could you clarify on your PO4? When you measure with the hanna meter, which model are you using? I'm assuming its the Ultra Low Range Phosphorus (hi736) and it's reading 33 and 23 ppb (parts per billion) instead of ppm.
So PO4 was moderate to low throughout, and NO3 was quite high dropping to almost none.
 

vetteguy53081

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Hydrogen peroxide more effective on cyano than NoPox without affecting coral. Adding a blackout or whites off for 3-5 days will be effective
 
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Could you clarify on your PO4? When you measure with the hanna meter, which model are you using? I'm assuming its the Ultra Low Range Phosphorus (hi736) and it's reading 33 and 23 ppb (parts per billion) instead of ppm.
So PO4 was moderate to low throughout, and NO3 was quite high dropping to almost none.
I am using the Hanna low range phosphate checker HI774 which measures in ppm. I need to edit the above as it was .33 to begin with and now .06.
 

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So you were dosing nopox to help with the cyano ? So what happened to the cyano ? I am just afraid you might end up with Dinos.
 
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So you were dosing nopox to help with the cyano ? So what happened to the cyano ? I am just afraid you might end up with Dinos.
The cyano has receded but is still there just not nearly as bad. The red on the rocks has turned to a thick green which Ive blown off in carpet like chunks with a long coral feeder/baster like tool and scoop up with a net, but I’m starting to see the light. I’m pleased with the results especially as other corals other than BTA have begun to thrive. I’ve now as of yesterday lowered my nopox dosage to 1 ml from 8 as I don’t want to bottom out.
 
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Hydrogen peroxide more effective on cyano than NoPox without affecting coral. Adding a blackout or whites off for 3-5 days will be effective
I'll have to look into your posts or posts in general on hydrogen peroxide dosing as I do not see Nopox as a long term solution. I have done some dips in the past on trumpets and zoas with much success getting the algae off plugs and dead trumpets (which have now regrown in dead spots).
 

vetteguy53081

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I'll have to look into your posts or posts in general on hydrogen peroxide dosing as I do not see Nopox as a long term solution. I have done some dips in the past on trumpets and zoas with much success getting the algae off plugs and dead trumpets (which have now regrown in dead spots).
First- Check phosphates and nitrates to assure theyre not elevated.
Here is full program:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 
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Update: Last week I dosed only 1 ml of NoPox (down from previous week of 8 ml) and my phosphates increased from .06 to .12 and Nitrates to 4.65 from .60! So now I've increased my dose again to 4 ml for this next week and hopefully that will be the balance for awhile. (BTAs still hating life so hopefully they can hang on a bit longer).
 
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First- Check phosphates and nitrates to assure theyre not elevated.
Here is full program:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
I will definitely try this program once my NoPox adventure is over (bottle is gone) if cyano returns. So I assume this Hydrogen Peroxide method lowers the nitrate/phosphate as well or does it just attack the cyano is some other way?
 

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I have some red turf algae here n there. Does this spread if you scrap it?
I does 60 ml of diy nopox a day on 550 true gallons.. I have a heavy bioload, all looks great excels some turf algae here n there but a lot of it is going away and coralline taking over.
My phos are .1 and under, trates are 20/25
I also run gfo
 

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I have some red turf algae here n there. Does this spread if you scrap it?
I does 60 ml of diy nopox a day on 550 true gallons.. I have a heavy bioload, all looks great excels some turf algae here n there but a lot of it is going away and coralline taking over.
My phos are .1 and under, trates are 20/25
I also run gfo
If you scrape it, it allows it to perhaps get filtered out or it’s home to be replaced with something else. Always a good idea to remove it from where it is.
 

DucatiGtr

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If you scrape it, it allows it to perhaps get filtered out or it’s home to be replaced with something else. Always a good idea to remove it from where it is.
Ok, I can def scrape a lot of it.. I just didn’t know if the spores reattached or something crazy like that.
milk be adding a lot more porous media to my sump area to help as well
 
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I have some red turf algae here n there. Does this spread if you scrap it?
I does 60 ml of diy nopox a day on 550 true gallons.. I have a heavy bioload, all looks great excels some turf algae here n there but a lot of it is going away and coralline taking over.
My phos are .1 and under, trates are 20/25
I also run gfo
I say scrape it off but net/remove it with net otherwise it will just continue to get thicker imho. 550 gallon tank, wow!
 

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I say scrape it off but net/remove it with net otherwise it will just continue to get thicker imho. 550 gallon tank, wow!
I just did some small areas w a tooth brush.. I’m also dosing home made coral snow... some say it works Over time.. others say no.. I guess there are a lot of variables in each tank
 
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Another update from 3/1 and today 3/7. After dosing 4 ml a few weeks ago 2/21 which brought phosphates to .01 (too low) and nitrates I'm not sure as I was lazy that day and didn't test I decided to lower dose to 2 ml for the last 2 weeks straight here are the results and BTAs are starting to show signs of life albeit older bigger one is still not showing much color. The little BTA is starting to eat (frozen brine) and tentacles are sticky. The large BTA and he use to be a monster see photos has been moving around the tank, but not much color or brine shrimp sticking to it's tentacles. In short, I think they're coming "alive" so to speak because there is somewhat more consistency in water parameters instead of massive swings (someone should talk about consistency on here for a change...I'm joking everyone does as being the key). In short, I think I will stick to 2 ml for now and monitor weekly and hopefully BTAs will continue to recover.

3/1 Results = Phosphate .12 and Nitrate 3.33
3/7 Results = Phosphate .11 and Nitrate 2.18
 

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