Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

Thank you for that post! Me too. I'm rinsing for a transfer, eight hour drive. Bucket transport ready, jackery battery to power heat and motion for coral and live rock bucket. Thank you very much for preparing 100 pounds that's among the larger jobs here. It's worth the effort. There's zero clouding if you want to rearrange the scape, there's less mess, laser clear in an hour after fill/ which for giant setups is a big deal guarantee. We collect the efforts for prep most reefers won't apply, and we study the system biology of the ultra- clean sandbed. Thanks tons
 
The drill attachment makes it a smoother process.
That's not a half bad idea, I'm going to try that. I've got a big paddle mixer that I've used when making DIY food, I'll have to dig that out
 
Love the clean lookin sand and water. My back is killing me from 3 days of hard work but am happy with the results. Cleaned the rock best I could but left the aipstasia alone. Will let my CBB eat them once I get him.
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Thank you x100 that's the work level we collect here! Sharp sharp rip clean + skip cycle

See how it looks empty/ no water? That's ripped clean yes
 
Time to move cities


My nano reef of 19 yrs has been rip cleaned into a bucket for skip cycle coral + invert transport.

Can't risk transporting a full vase it's thin hobby glass 30 yrs old in total. Reefbowl 1 was in that, this here is rb2 from 2006. And there's no other order of handling ops id trust than complete rip cleaning. My sand, all five pounds of it, is rinsed and sitting ready for install in a paint bucket.




And, added test, can't set back up in new home just yet. Patient has been kept under support a few days now monitoring power via the ecoflow power bank app. Vitals looking strong. The extra days in the
bucket of no light just mean go easier on the light ramping we do in every job here. For these old+ stressed corals I'll feed them well do shaded 4 hr photoperiods for ten days. Final insult: will be switching salt brands all at once too. My corals did not like petsmart saltwater, back home i can get tropic marin pre mixed.

To switch salt brands without bleaching/offsets changing alk levels/ the light ramping trick is key.

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After three days in bucket and large culling out of growth, making room for the fungiid coral to expand much better now. Today the polyps opened just fine with some kessil lights laying on a box shining sideways. This weekend can build light holder for new place, hide and change wiring for the new layout. Skip cycle = complete for sure. So happy it's done.


Now for the next few days: cpr feeding.

Feed, water change an hour later 3x a week sustained eight weeks as bowl exercise no joke. Then scale back once weekly and cruise a year.

Every custom job for every size tank in this thread comes directly from the skip cycle biology that keeps the vase alive. Jobs here only differ in scale: the instruction set applies to all reefs who want to join --> thank you all for posting!

It is scary when your stuff is completely taken apart I'm not going to fail to mention. Half your brain is stating firmly the bacteria might die, and you should be scared each hour of wait.

And then the other half of the brain says no no no no this is a pattern collection from friends willing to blast rinse their sand, it's the equalizer move that skip cycles all reefs. Trust the method fully. This side wins each time. Besides, what are you gonna do= move day is final there better be a plan

That plan's primary implement is a garden hose used to rinse out sand until it's 100% cloud free before transferring the tank. Final rinse in saltwater, transfer sand to new home and install. = skip cycle

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Had to rough assemble, tape on the lid until all wiring is cut out and redone for the new mount. Salinity needed to be stabilized. The bowl lid specifically presses into the inner diameter curled lip of the bowl, containing airstone exhaust. Cuts evaporation down 97% compared to open topped reefs, that's why all the coral stays stable at one gallon.

I culled and cut out about 40% of the prior coral, a huge cut back prune I do once every eight years or so. It'll antler right back in by 2030 for sure.


That's the smallest reef on the thread for sure but it's a scaled down exact transfer model that will apply to any reef aquarium we see in the future here. Gallonage does not impact skip cycle transfer biology, a teacup reef will follow the rule as a 500 gallon will.

Fully opened now, skip cycle complete no bleach. 5th day after transfer setup.

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For a tie-in back to 2017, this vase is the reefbowl from this edition.

Maritza the vase reef from that article is running as strong as ever. We hope to update soon, maybe on the tenth annv

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I'm using web threads from reefcentral and nano-reef.com and that print and reef2reef to document a run for the oldest pico reef on the planet. I have tried to distill only the truest bare minimum reef rules that link us all.

Those linkages run our testless cycling threads, our rip clean threads, our peroxide threads, our tank cpr threads and our new tank skip cycle threads.

This vase was assembled one day close to 20 yrs ago using skip cycle live rock from the pet store, to test longevity.
 
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Thank you for posting that sweep shot that is such a good follow up, I didn't get any alerts somehow. That is so dang clean, it's spot on what we need here, so that our work method stands out from the others.

We need after videos just like that to keep us unique in the business of handling transferred reef tanks.

Your tank caused me this reflection:

That aquascape ties into advanced cycling dynamics and things mentioned prior as ideal long term stable reef design

I just noticed when I put your video at full screen this final assembly makes your tank stronger in ways that are fun to discuss.

That's a reduced surface area aquascape. Part of the new wave of reefing. Benefits: less surface area to grab and retain detritus

lives longer in power outage, under max stress conditions (no circulation) than any other reef with a stacked wall and the bragable I haven't touched it in fifteen years deep sand bed (what the masses strive for)

these classic tanks over present unneeded waste + bacterial mass as a direct oxygen competitor to fish in the + stress, stilled condition power outage reef tank. They're producing waste gas, the bacteria en masse are the first to die in high surface area filters, sandbeds, and rock stacks piled in.


we make our living here literally ripping as much bacteria as we can out of reef tanks. We did opposite from the masses, results are logged. we do this to strengthen reef tanks in a world where the man says we must add his diversity products and pay for dna testing to get reliable results.

no. When we all trade corals and fish, that's your biodiversity cross transfer. It isn't from the bottle required, sales trick.

we remove sloughage here and let the natural imports win the space. Rip cleaning is back flushing is filter self maintenance in aquatic systems.

Live rock stacks taking up 98% of the display, ala 1999 method, works but also becomes an access nightmare should detailing be required (such as manually removing invasive macro if needed, or algae destined to grow on the white part of the newer rock)

I can convey with certainty: most of that reasoning to stack 98% of space as live rock was the dated belief that reef tanks were teetering on the edge of balance, with the slightest limitation in bacteria resulting in a crash. We now know that isn't true.


Your tank is nearly immune to gha now due to that *scape* notice I didn't say any test kit level. This whole thread is algae free, we fix algae tanks, and we've never discussed nitrate or phosphate. Opposite of the masses.


Your tank is immune because if some sprouted on the rocks, we wouldn't mess with your water params (look how well the corals are growing)

No, you can lift that rock out totally and set it on the counter and freddy kruger it with metal kitchen implements, no algae tuft can beat that. And as you lifted and set rock: no dirt cloud took over. You had snowglobe sand grains that fall back down, we knew during prep verification before the move.


You've strengthened your tank, wanted to give matching feedback in appreciation for you posting here.


My update one week in: the fungiid has opened eight times It's normal size, I've never seen this in eight years, I'm actually concerned for my war coral lol which was the prior king. Even my other green brain from 2012 is about 4x normal and he's trying to reach the fungiid. There's a prison riot in my vase

The fungiid wants to *fight* dang.
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And then two days after that battle they settled down. It was chest bumping. No kills.

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@brandon429
I recently found this thread in researching upgrading my current 29 gallon to a 40 breeder, mainly due to the fact the my current petco stand has been corroding and is probably one of the main factors in current tank issues or so i assume. To get an idea of my tasks ahead to minimize all issues and losses. Im still planning this build/upgrade.

Onto the reason of today's post I also have a 3 gallon spec III that is just over a year old
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In the 3 gallon instead of sand i decided to go with smaller rock rubble. Would the blast rinsing work the same as the sand or would a thorough saltwater rinse be better? There are no fish only a few crabs and snails.
 
@Bruster45 sorry for delay I'm simply not getting flag notices due to software glitches I'd assume. Came back over here to edit in my update pic without bumping the thread, but saw your post first.

For sure it works the same. If you rip clean that pico, it will be refreshed with your same rubble put back in place. It'll look like a new tank, but with its microbiology maturity still in place (point of thread: rip cleaning does not degrade or destabilize a tank, it refreshes the tank always, this is page 65 of wins)

Also factors

I can't keep a kenya tree/capnella variant of any type they just won't grow for me. That is a large healthy coral of the brightest color sustained: jealous

great looking tank. There's nothing wrong with it for sure. In this case, the exact rip clean we run to transfer a reef tank will land it right back where it sits now, only totally clean.

The custom steps:

Lift out the rock with coral on it, set in some prepped reef water matching temp and salinity. No others need to match.

Pick the tank for limpets you want to keep, micro brittle stars if any, snails, put in the holding tank.

Now is just cloudy water, a tank, and the substrate.

Scoop out all substrate leaving only the last part of muddy water and a bare glass pico reef.

Power rinse the substrate in cool tap, force pick off/rub off any algae attachments/ bad spots.

Final rinse the cleaned rubble in saltwater. This rubble is still bioactive. The day a light tap water rinse becomes sterilizing is the day lab techs across the world rejoice with the new ease imparted to them :)

Take the tank to totally empty. Razor scrape it. Dry it, it is now perfectly restored (dried to check for missed razor greenish spots)

Refill with matching water temp and salinity 80% new, and 20% old water you drew cleanly off the top of that setup right there before you got started.

Now it's totally clear glass pico filled with ready water, and totally clean rubble on the bottom.

Set back over the main rock. Dental pick it as needed on the ride back over: transport in no visible algae.

Don't forget to make your lighting weaker in some way

Apply tape to the lid of the system as light block, remove a little each day

Or raise the light up, lower back reach day in increments

Or change the light settings in the app, to be weaker and ramp up over a weeks time.

That is a skip cycle regeneration rip clean. I've used that to literally cheat a vase that should be dead into one that is not. Age trick of the millenia.

Thank you so much for posting, that's an eye- catching pico growing corals mine won't grow.

B
 
Since your active biomedia will be in the display, vs a sump, any extraneous/uncycled material is in the larger receiving tank is neutral impact in your skip cycle plan

I forgot you are upgrading tanks here/ don't have to clean the old.

It all still holds, just swap in the new tank you want plus it's decor.

It's not like you're piling in new fish, so your transferred biomedia still holds its power. Extra dry surfaces in the new tank in addition don't have to be cycled. We didn't need their help and they become self- cycled by being in the tank about twenty days with the transferred live surfaces.

To skip cycle we simply move 0% detritus. Bacteria are never factored because reefs don't run short on bacteria, they run short on cleanliness, flow and competition against pathogenic bacteria necessitating the eventual bad use of antibiotics like Cipro added into a reef tank. This should never be done.


By removing competing flocs and coverages that hinder surface area presentation to wastewater, we're actually moving over more efficient tanks than before the transfer. The opposite of the public assumption is the truth, in reef tank transfers (and in age hacks for pico reefs)

I would never set up a reef with dry rock.

If your plan was mine the only thing I'd change is the current stuff gets skip cycle transferred into a 40 gallon tank that has only pristine, real purple coralline live cured rock from a pet store. People/ owners/ are tight wads with the good rock, but not if you paid them three hundred dollars for some, then they're more considerate :)

I'd be transferring into a system that also skip cycles all the macrobiology needed for me to begin growing sps yesterday, not in eight months of dinos battles from adding this balanced pico to 80% dry white rock (which isn't an ammonia risk/ covered)

How good is the extra rock you're landing into here man?
B
 
Any concern with hose water when hosing down my AIO tank and rear chambers before I put it back together?
 
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This is the silt from 1 15lb bag of Carib sea seaflor special grade aragonite. It took me almost 3 hours to rinse clean 6 bags. I ran 3 buckets and vigorously swirled them while tipping out the cloudy water. Then a salt rinse and now it's ready.

Moving a red sea 250 55 ish gallon to a 32 x 30 x 24 cube (100 ish gallon) soon. Doing as much prep now.
Marco dry rock is also very dusty. I had to rinse that pretty well too. Now that's curing again with "live rock" to begin bacteria seeding.
 
That's a massive job and thank you for this documentation. Also to factor:

I believe this is the first preemptive split red sea tank move for us here.


Not a home move or an invasion fix, but a rip clean for the purpose of skip cycle transferring out of a seam- issue red sea tank into a new tank in the same house before the main tank splits.

The forced transfers are the worst/ scariest/ I just did one and felt it.


Having six months time to plan a large tank transfer is less headache. This one was pressed for sure.

your thorough rinse and bac prep will 100% effect a skip cycle and all your corals will be great.


The only fun jobs are the live time ones with no apparent guarantee where results are expected in full and without variance in outcome.


I can promise all that. Let's go :)

Thank you
B
 
Just wanted to say what a help this thread was to me - I picked up the better part of 100+ lbs. of sand from another reefer (a literal professional in the trade) that had come from another system.

Fortunately I found this thread, which convinced me of the importance of a thorough cleaning, which I did.

While it was backbreaking work that used a lot of water - and I'm convinced there a more efficient way to do this that I'm still working on figuring out - it was still every bit of worth it when I saw how much garbage was being washed out of that sand.
 
Just wanted to say what a help this thread was to me - I picked up the better part of 100+ lbs. of sand from another reefer (a literal professional in the trade) that had come from another system.

Fortunately I found this thread, which convinced me of the importance of a thorough cleaning, which I did.

While it was backbreaking work that used a lot of water - and I'm convinced there a more efficient way to do this that I'm still working on figuring out - it was still every bit of worth it when I saw how much garbage was being washed out of that sand.
Trust me, it's worth it. Soon you will be wondering if you need to dose nutrients because your tank is so sparkly clean
 
Trust me, it's worth it. Soon you will be wondering if you need to dose nutrients because your tank is so sparkly clean
Heh. It was. Barring the initial day 1 and 2 bacterial blooms, it was crystal clear. Until I put livestock in, lol.

I have about 300+ lbs. of rock I've collected from other reefers (one had a tank crack and empty itself overnight, the other had a house fire) that was thoroughly soaked in sodium percarbonate, and then in citric acid. I've been using some of that rock as-is because I wound up having to put water in the tank before I was finished with my aquascaping - the hermits I put in last weekend have been busily picking off anything they could - dead GHA strands, flakes of dead coralline, etc. - and making a quite a mess the last few days.
 
I've found this thread right on time, thanks @brandon429 for putting all this together. Amazing work!

I have a 30 gallon tank which I'll be taking apart to re-do the plumbing and aquascape. I will for sure be cleaning the sand as you mentioned. I was religiously told to not use the old but now I understand why. I had a question about bacteria dio-off from washing the sand in tap water with has chlorine in it. My initial thought was that before the last rince with RO water, to do one last rince with a water primer to neutralize any chlorine left. Would you say this is ok to do or skip it?

As for the 20 or so pounds of marco rocks in the tank. Should I clean them with a brush in tank salt water before plating it back in the DT, and will you suggest using Dr Tim one and only to seed the tank a bit more or will the 20 pounds of live rock and porous media in the sump be enough?
 

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