Ok I need you guys the most now lol

[johnny4491]

So I went to petsmart to see what they had for Black Friday and I couldn’t resist my self and I got this one lol and for 45 bucks I couldn’t say no but now of course I’m going to make this a saltwater tank so my question is can I use those water pumps that it comes with or maybe a bigger one because I’m not planning to drill any holes on it for the return pumps and any ideas for the tank

 

[nautical_nathaniel]

From my experience those included filters in the Store Brand kits usually burn out in a few months anyway so I would plan on upgrading soon or having a spare on hand.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

^^^^. Yup.
But it'll work!

 

[zcedric]

I would keep heater, tank and lid. Replace light and filter and add a mini skimmer and may you could ad a mini reactor.

 

[johnny4491]

From my experience those included filters in the Store Brand kits usually burn out in a few months anyway so I would plan on upgrading soon or having a spare on hand.

Whats a good size for that size of a tank

 

[johnny4491]

I would keep heater, tank and lid. Replace light and filter and add a mini skimmer and may you could ad a mini reactor.

You have any filter in mind that u shouldn’t mind sharing

 

[zcedric]

You have any filter in mind that u shouldn’t mind sharing

I would go with aqua top or aquar clear... or craft you a 10 Gallon refuge and use a overflow box which you can get from ebay for 20.- or less.

 

[Clownfish2]

Yes a hang on the back Filter will work, but I am not sure if that brand HOB is reliable. If you plan to keep corals aim for 30-50 Times tank volume turn over. To meet the turn over, hang a second Filter on the back plus you would have redundancy if the cheap one burns out. Option 2, use powerheads in the tank for turnover.

I use the Seachem Tidal 55 HOB on my 20 gallon tank.

 

[johnny4491]

Yes a hang on the back Filter will work, but I am not sure if that brand HOB is reliable. If you plan to keep corals aim for 30-50 Times tank volume turn over. To meet the turn over, hang a second Filter on the back plus you would have redundancy if the cheap one burns out. Option 2, use powerheads in the tank for turnover.

I use the Seachem Tidal 55 HOB on my 20 gallon tank.

I do plan on keeping coral and put one powerhead so just with a hang on back filter and a powerhead will be ok

 

[Darryl]

keep heater
keep powerhead if it came with one
Aquaclear 70
Tunze 9004 skimmer
10-15 pounds of live sand
20 pounds of live rock
dump the hood and get a DIY net screen top (also helps to surround the PS)
2 options on lighting,
1 kessil A160we with tank mount
or
1 Current usa pro led
enjoy reef!

 

[johnny4491]

keep heater
keep powerhead if it came with one
Aquaclear 70
Tunze 9004 skimmer
10-15 pounds of live sand
20 pounds of live rock
dump the hood and get a DIY net screen top (also helps to surround the PS)
2 options on lighting,
1 kessil A160we with tank mount
or
1 Current usa pro led
enjoy reef!

Thank you [emoji120] what do u recommend live rock or dry rock

 

[Darryl]

i would go with live sand and dry rock cycling will be a little bit quicker.

 

[johnny4491]

i would go with live sand and dry rock cycling will be a little bit quicker.

Ok thanks I got live rock my last tank anything different with dry rock

 

[40B Knasty]

This is a pic of my 20g with a FLUVAL 30 and 1 hydro 460powerhead. With 22lbs of live rock. Aragonite sand bed to help with your pH. SolarMax Deep Blue T5 with ATI Blue Plus & Coral Plus.
If I had a chance to do it all over again. A FLUVAL C2 OR C3 w/ 1 Jabeo SW-4 powerhead.
I would keep the ceramics that comes with the C2 or C3 and put those in the wet dry basket. Get a piece of Marine Pure and cut that into a shape that fits in where they want you to put carbon. Use the sponge that comes with it.
I have the Fluval C4 on my 65g with a sponge, Marine pure, and ceramics in the wet dry. Nitrates never go higher than 2ppm and I feed 2x a day. I use still the same Reef Octopus BH1000 HOB. That was on the 20g and now it is on the 65g.

Here are all those same corals in the 65g. The white and orange morphed into the gray/hyper salmon. The fire and ice is a frag of the main colony

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

^^^^a yup. A KISS system.

 

[40B Knasty]

^^^^a yup. A KISS system.

I should mention I had 6 fish in the 20g
But I will highly recommend not doing that. It was my only bad move. Especially for the wrasse, but he was young and went into a 40B a month later. Then a 65g after the 40B tank cracked after 6 months of having that.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I should mention I had 6 fish in the 20g
But I will highly recommend not doing that. It was my only bad move. Especially for the wrasse, but he was young and went into a 40B a month later. Then a 65g after the 40B tank cracked after 6 months of having that.

(Shhh. I had a mandarin in mine. 20 gal doe 6 mo, 30g for two and half years.)

 

[johnny4491]

This is a pic of my 20g with a FLUVAL 30 and 1 hydro 460powerhead. With 22lbs of live rock. Aragonite sand bed to help with your pH. SolarMax Deep Blue T5 with ATI Blue Plus & Coral Plus.
If I had a chance to do it all over again. A FLUVAL C2 OR C3 w/ 1 Jabeo SW-4 powerhead.
I would keep the ceramics that comes with the C2 or C3 and put those in the wet dry basket. Get a piece of Marine Pure and cut that into a shape that fits in where they want you to put carbon. Use the sponge that comes with it.
I have the Fluval C4 on my 65g with a sponge, Marine pure, and ceramics in the wet dry. Nitrates never go higher than 2ppm and I feed 2x a day. I use still the same Reef Octopus BH1000 HOB. That was on the 20g and now it is on the 65g.

Here are all those same corals in the 65g. The white and orange morphed into the gray/hyper salmon. The fire and ice is a frag of the main colony

Is it this one

 

[johnny4491]

I would keep heater, tank and lid. Replace light and filter and add a mini skimmer and may you could ad a mini reactor.

How can I upgrade the lights without taking out the lid?

 

[40B Knasty]

Is it this one

The C3 would be better, because you can always control the flow from the little nub on the top. It rates for 20-50g.
Here is something you wouldn't know unless you owned one. I will try to explain this as best as possible.
The flow that pushes water out over the little filter screen on top of the wet dry. When the flow is slowed down. It is actually better water cover across the top. It will go across the whole filter pad. When it is cranked up. It trickles out and only goes across 1/2 of the area. So with a lowered C3 flow all your ceramics in the wet dry would stay moist for that good bacteria on the ceramics