Oops, when testing calc follow the dang instructions

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BryanM

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In case this helps anyone.

hanna marine master tester.

Got "used to" how the tests worked, wasn't paying attention. Calc 588, but the test calls for using de-ionized water, not rodi water.

422 with the right dang water for the test. Whew.
 
The freakish sensitivity of that kit to traces of calcium in the blank is a design flaw, IMO.

However, I think you mean distilled vs deionized?

In any case, good enough deionized water is certainly suitable, it's just that many folks RO/DI (deionized) water may not be as low as it needs to be in calcium.
 
The freakish sensitivity of that kit to traces of calcium in the blank is a design flaw, IMO.

However, I think you mean distilled vs deionized?

In any case, good enough deionized water is certainly suitable, it's just that many folks RO/DI (deionized) water may not be as low as it needs to be in calcium.
I had to find the instructions for the kit, and it very specifically said deionized, type II water.
 
I had to find the instructions for the kit, and it very specifically said deionized, type II water.

OK, but distilled will also work. IMO, its a bad design.

The say this for the calcium tester itself.
https://www.hannainst.com/hi758-cal...f8axX7gWhW4iDEdUKjFYZvsiNoRmKMkLfGUSHzby-0VKA
  1. Use pure vapor distilled water from your local pharmacy at C1 phase. RODI water from home filtration units may not be suitable for this test as calcium can easily permeate through your filter membranes.
 
OK, but distilled will also work. IMO, its a bad design.

The say this for the calcium tester itself.
https://www.hannainst.com/hi758-cal...f8axX7gWhW4iDEdUKjFYZvsiNoRmKMkLfGUSHzby-0VKA
  1. Use pure vapor distilled water from your local pharmacy at C1 phase. RODI water from home filtration units may not be suitable for this test as calcium can easily permeate through your filter membranes.

So that tester is different from what I am using. The instructions for the marine master state:

• Use the plastic pipette to fill the cuvette to the 10 mL markwith deionized water. Use Type2 grade water or water thathas electrical conductivity ≤ 1 µS/cm. For best results,measure the deionized water with a clean, rinsed 10 mLsyringe. Replace the plastic stopper and the cap. Invert3to5times to mix.

Since my numbers were off, and for no good reason, I decided I'd at least try and do what they said... Even to me seems like rodi water should work "close enough", but tested w/RODI and my calc was 588. Tested with deionized it was 422.

And a gallon of deionized water is a lifetime supply for myself and 20 of my closest friends.
 
So that tester is different from what I am using. The instructions for the marine master state:

• Use the plastic pipette to fill the cuvette to the 10 mL markwith deionized water. Use Type2 grade water or water thathas electrical conductivity ≤ 1 µS/cm. For best results,measure the deionized water with a clean, rinsed 10 mLsyringe. Replace the plastic stopper and the cap. Invert3to5times to mix.

Since my numbers were off, and for no good reason, I decided I'd at least try and do what they said... Even to me seems like rodi water should work "close enough", but tested w/RODI and my calc was 588. Tested with deionized it was 422.

And a gallon of deionized water is a lifetime supply for myself and 20 of my closest friends.

I know, but the method is The same, and both are poorly designed, IMO.

The issue is the small amount of tank water used relative to the blank water.
 
I know, but the method is The same, and both are poorly designed, IMO.

The issue is the small amount of tank water used relative to the blank water.
I certainly will agree. It's a weird test... and I've been doing it wrong since I got it, never noticed the .1ml measurement either, I thought it was 1.0ml.
 

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