PARwise

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Just ordered mine this morning from SaltwaterAquarium.com

Should be here this week. Looking forward to comparing my LEDs vs Halides, etc.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Well, received mine and the support for this product is ZERO. ZERO instructions on operation, etc.

There is a button in the software that has no description, etc that changes from freshwater to saltwater. There is also supposed to be a button for above water and underwater. I don't see any such option.

It's off about 200 PAR (lower) than my Apogee MQ-510 and I really wish I knew which one to list to.

Here is the spectrum in the air, not in water, about 10 inches directly under the Reef Brite 250w MH with Hamilton 14k DE bulb. According to this, the spectrum is absolutely perfect. Getting ready to test my Illumagic Blaze X 90 LED fixture as well.

 

[jtichenor]

Well, received mine and the support for this product is ZERO. ZERO instructions on operation, etc.

There is a button in the software that has no description, etc that changes from freshwater to saltwater. There is also supposed to be a button for above water and underwater. I don't see any such option.

It's off about 200 PAR (lower) than my Apogee MQ-510 and I really wish I knew which one to list to.

Here is the spectrum in the air, not in water, about 10 inches directly under the Reef Brite 250w MH with Hamilton 14k DE bulb. According to this, the spectrum is absolutely perfect. Getting ready to test my Illumagic Blaze X 90 LED fixture as well.

The button under Home changes from Air to Water mode. In your screenshot above, you are in water mode. There is a small water icon next to the PAR label that indicates 'Immersion Effect Correction Factor Applied' if you click on it.

I don't believe there is a way to switch between salt and fresh water.

There is a PARwise user group on Facebook you might want to join. I posted there yesterday about my concern of the PARwise reading about 100 par lower than the MQ-510. The main guy at ITC for PARwise in Europe answered that post this morning (on a Sunday)! He stated each PARwise is calibrated and tested at the factory before being shipped and he offered to send me the QC data sheet for my unit's calibration if I wanted it. That's pretty awesome customer service if you ask me.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

The button under Home changes from Air to Water mode. In your screenshot above, you are in water mode. There is a small water icon next to the PAR label that indicates 'Immersion Effect Correction Factor Applied' if you click on it.

I don't believe there is a way to switch between salt and fresh water.

There is a PARwise user group on Facebook you might want to join. I posted there yesterday about my concern of the PARwise reading about 100 par lower than the MQ-510. The main guy at ITC for PARwise in Europe answered that post this morning (on a Sunday)! He stated each PARwise is calibrated and tested at the factory before being shipped and he offered to send me the QC data sheet for my unit's calibration if I wanted it. That's pretty awesome customer service if you ask me.

Appreciate your posting on this, thank you. I thought it was Freshwater or Saltwater based on the background pictures that change on the app when you select the button. I received that info when I looked at the FAQ on the PARwise site. I'll post the screenshot below.

With this new information, I'll go back and change the settings and try again. I've been in business and IT for over 25 years and am extremely tech savvy. They could have at least done a quick start on their website and linked that in the packaging. It's the worse lack of documentation I've ever seen for $300.00.

The PAR is far different from the Apogee PAR meters which is very concerning. I don't want to fry all my SPS, but I'm hoping getting the settings right, with what you told me, will make a big difference.

Don't get me wrong, I'm thrilled they made a product like this and very excited about the obvious benefit it will provide the end users. Just frustrated that NO WHERE are there any instructions for use. It's very easy to do a short video on YouTube and send that to the multiple suppliers to include on their sales page.

Ok, enough of the obvious, going to give this another whirl tomorrow and add my Illumagic Blaze X 90 LED in addition to my Metal Halides. Here's the posting on the PARwise FAQ that states air/water and fresh/saltwater. Very confusing.

 

[JoJosReef]

Watching. Thinking about getting one of these, but like a previous poster said, don't want to fry my corals/nems, so hoping there is a consensus about accuracy in the near future.

 

[Mark Goode]

It's the worse lack of documentation I've ever seen for $300.00.

Yep, agree 100%. I found their customer service to be good though.

As to the accuracy, I've nothing to compare it with so I dunno. I just hope it's right.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Yep, agree 100%. I found their customer service to be good though.

As to the accuracy, I've nothing to compare it with so I dunno. I just hope it's right.

I'm doing more testing today and tomorrow. I'll let you know what my thoughts are.

 

[JoJosReef]

I'm doing more testing today and tomorrow. I'll let you know what my thoughts are.

Any more testing done? Thinking of pulling the trigger on buying this meter. How has it performed for you underwater with the Blaze compared to Apogee?

Are you using some sort of wand to hold it?

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Any more testing done? Thinking of pulling the trigger on buying this meter. How has it performed for you underwater with the Blaze compared to Apogee?

Are you using some sort of wand to hold it?

Hey Jojo,

I haven't had time. I will be doing some tomorrow or this weekend most likely.

I have two, brand new Illumagic Blaze X 90s and I wanted to add some color to the Metal Halides. I have one up and I ran some initial PAR tests just to make sure I wasn't frying my Acros with MH and LED.

I'm going to test both independently. The guys that make PARwise want me to send them my results compared to the Apogee. I just haven't had time lately.

If I had to advise you, I would tell you to buy it. My Acropora results tell me that it's more accurate than the Apogee MQ-510.

I have a wand for the Apogee, but sadly not the PARwise. It would make it MUCH easier so I will look into picking one of those up. I usually hold it by the cord about 6 inches back from the main box sensor so I don't interfere with light transmission. That's without the wand.

 

[luxdium]

Gauging by some of the shared screenshots, the spectrum peaks appear accurate, but the overall graphs of the spectral distributions do not appear representative of the light sources they depict.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Gauging by some of the shared screenshots, the spectrum peaks appear accurate, but the overall graphs of the spectral distributions do not appear representative of the light sources they depict.

I would agree with this. It definitely won't show fine details in the spectral graph, but it does change between metal Halide and LED.

Overall, I think the spectrum is accurate from a broad measure.

 

[AlbertGF]

Hey Jojo,

I haven't had time. I will be doing some tomorrow or this weekend most likely.

I have two, brand new Illumagic Blaze X 90s and I wanted to add some color to the Metal Halides. I have one up and I ran some initial PAR tests just to make sure I wasn't frying my Acros with MH and LED.

I'm going to test both independently. The guys that make PARwise want me to send them my results compared to the Apogee. I just haven't had time lately.

If I had to advise you, I would tell you to buy it. My Acropora results tell me that it's more accurate than the Apogee MQ-510.

I have a wand for the Apogee, but sadly not the PARwise. It would make it MUCH easier so I will look into picking one of those up. I usually hold it by the cord about 6 inches back from the main box sensor so I don't interfere with light transmission. That's without the wand.

Hi!

Any news? I'm waiting for your tests to decide if I buy one or not.

Thank you!

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Hi!

Any news? I'm waiting for your tests to decide if I buy one or not.

Thank you!

Hey @AlbertGF

Yes, I did some yesterday and will be doing more today and tomorrow. I ordered a 3D printed holder for the PARwise so my hand doesn't skew any data. That will be in tomorrow and I will finalize the tests and post them here.

 

[jtichenor]

Hey @AlbertGF

Yes, I did some yesterday and will be doing more today and tomorrow. I ordered a 3D printed holder for the PARwise so my hand doesn't skew any data. That will be in tomorrow and I will finalize the tests and post them here.

Please let us know where to order that holder if you like it.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Please let us know where to order that holder if you like it.

Will do, I bought it from 3dreefgear.com

I'll let you know how it holds when it arrives later tomorrow. You also need a 3/8 inch rod that doesn't come with it. You can get them at Lowes, Home depot, etc. It's 3/8 or 0.375 diameter.

I'll let you know.

 

[JoJosReef]

Will do, I bought it from 3dreefgear.com

I'll let you know how it holds when it arrives later tomorrow. You also need a 3/8 inch rod that doesn't come with it. You can get them at Lowes, Home depot, etc. It's 3/8 or 0.375 diameter.

I'll let you know.

Was that the Seneye holder?

Seneye Reef Par Meter Holder

This holder allows for you to quickly slide your Seneye in to test the par in your tank. A standard fiberglass rod like the one linked below will fit right into the hole as your pole to hold, so you keep your hands out of the tank. Any rod that is 0.375 inches in diameter will fit...

3dreefgear.com

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Was that the Seneye holder?

Seneye Reef Par Meter Holder

This holder allows for you to quickly slide your Seneye in to test the par in your tank. A standard fiberglass rod like the one linked below will fit right into the hole as your pole to hold, so you keep your hands out of the tank. Any rod that is 0.375 inches in diameter will fit...

3dreefgear.com

Yes

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Ok everyone,

I won't post all of my research, I'll just get to the point. Here are some basic readings.

For reference, my lighting is 11 inches above the top of the water.
My Acropora start at 12 inches under the water and go down to about 15 inches under.

These readings are with all flow off, water totally still.

1) 250W dual bulb Metal Halide and dual LED running at same time PAR readings:
- ITC PARwise - 244 to 260 PAR
- Apogee MQ-510 - 340 to 355 PAR

2) 250w Metal Halide only
- ITC PARwise - 165 PAR
- Apogee MQ-510 - 240 PAR

Ok, now for my thoughts on which is possibly correct. I switched to Metal Halide within 3 weeks of starting this new Acropora system, from the LEDs. I was wanting the best possible outcome and I knew MH would go a long way in assuring that.

About 2 months into the Halides, my Acros were doing very good, but wasn't showing much color and I had one ORA Grape Juice Acro that was turning a bit brown, like it was starved for light. I couldn't rectify that in my mind as my Apogee PAR meter was reading 300 to 320 PAR 12ninches under the water. So I waited.

After a lot of thinking, I added one of my new Illumagic Blaze X 90s to the front of the tank and angled it about 20 degrees to cover the Acropora. I adjusted the fixture to low intensity in case it was too much on the Acropora.

Within 2 weeks, I noticed some of my Maricultured Acropora coloring up a bit with different colors and having more PE than normal. I added the second Illumagic Blaze to the rear of the tank and angled it forward.

It hasn't been a long time to give final thoughts, but I monitor the tank hourly. I've had great success with it and since adjusting my lighting to reflect 100 additional PAR on the Apogee, but correct PAR (with what it normally should be), instead of bleaching and retracted polyps, I'm getting GREAT results.

I have also notice that I'm not really using any Alk, Calcium, etc. A little, but like 0.10 to 0.20 change every two or three days.

I was SHOCKED to watch my tests run yesterday and I had dropped from 9.3 DKH to 8.1. Calcium had dropped about 40 or 50 points. That's a clear indication to me that the corals are getting the PAR they need now and are utilizing the available calcium, etc.

This is an educated guess, but I believe the ITC PARwise is correct and what should be used to adjust PAR. Remember, BRS had a video on YouTube testing the Seneye and the Apogee. They also found the Apogee to be very high in its PAR readings and the Seneye was almost perfect.

Buy the PARwise, tell them I sent you . Here are two graphs that I took. First one is MH and LED and the second one is MH only. I have the LED adjusted to maybe 40% and mostly blue. So this isn't a representation of full spectrum on the LED, but it is on the Halide. These are underwater, 12 inches.

 

[JoJosReef]

Ok everyone,

I won't post all of my research, I'll just get to the point. Here are some basic readings.

For reference, my lighting is 11 inches above the top of the water.
My Acropora start at 12 inches under the water and go down to about 15 inches under.

These readings are with all flow off, water totally still.

1) 250W dual bulb Metal Halide and dual LED running at same time PAR readings:
- ITC PARwise - 244 to 260 PAR
- Apogee MQ-510 - 340 to 355 PAR

2) 250w Metal Halide only
- ITC PARwise - 165 PAR
- Apogee MQ-510 - 240 PAR

Ok, now for my thoughts on which is possibly correct. I switched to Metal Halide within 3 weeks of starting this new Acropora system, from the LEDs. I was wanting the best possible outcome and I knew MH would go a long way in assuring that.

About 2 months into the Halides, my Acros were doing very good, but wasn't showing much color and I had one ORA Grape Juice Acro that was turning a bit brown, like it was starved for light. I couldn't rectify that in my mind as my Apogee PAR meter was reading 300 to 320 PAR 12ninches under the water. So I waited.

After a lot of thinking, I added one of my new Illumagic Blaze X 90s to the front of the tank and angled it about 20 degrees to cover the Acropora. I adjusted the fixture to low intensity in case it was too much on the Acropora.

Within 2 weeks, I noticed some of my Maricultured Acropora coloring up a bit with different colors and having more PE than normal. I added the second Illumagic Blaze to the rear of the tank and angled it forward.

It hasn't been a long time to give final thoughts, but I monitor the tank hourly. I've had great success with it and since adjusting my lighting to reflect 100 additional PAR on the Apogee, but correct PAR (with what it normally should be), instead of bleaching and retracted polyps, I'm getting GREAT results.

I have also notice that I'm not really using any Alk, Calcium, etc. A little, but like 0.10 to 0.20 change every two or three days.

I was SHOCKED to watch my tests run yesterday and I had dropped from 9.3 DKH to 8.1. Calcium had dropped about 40 or 50 points. That's a clear indication to me that the corals are getting the PAR they need now and are utilizing the available calcium, etc.

This is an educated guess, but I believe the ITC PARwise is correct and what should be used to adjust PAR. Remember, BRS had a video on YouTube testing the Seneye and the Apogee. They also found the Apogee to be very high in its PAR readings and the Seneye was almost perfect.

Buy the PARwise, tell them I sent you . Here are two graphs that I took. First one is MH and LED and the second one is MH only. I have the LED adjusted to maybe 40% and mostly blue. So this isn't a representation of full spectrum on the LED, but it is on the Halide. These are underwater, 12 inches.

Super work, thank you very much! In my shopping basket

 

[ConsummatePro]

@Hurricane Aquatics Love your tests: this is one of the first detailed tests of PARWise we've seen so far and it's very encouraging.

Can you tell us if it is very directional in the PAR readings? I know my Seneye PAR needs to be tilted towards the light to get a proper reading, whereas the Apogees have a lens diffuser and cosine correction to deal with light directionality. Does PARWise have the same issue as Seneye?