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The button under Home changes from Air to Water mode. In your screenshot above, you are in water mode. There is a small water icon next to the PAR label that indicates 'Immersion Effect Correction Factor Applied' if you click on it.Well, received mine and the support for this product is ZERO. ZERO instructions on operation, etc.
There is a button in the software that has no description, etc that changes from freshwater to saltwater. There is also supposed to be a button for above water and underwater. I don't see any such option.
It's off about 200 PAR (lower) than my Apogee MQ-510 and I really wish I knew which one to list to.
Here is the spectrum in the air, not in water, about 10 inches directly under the Reef Brite 250w MH with Hamilton 14k DE bulb. According to this, the spectrum is absolutely perfect. Getting ready to test my Illumagic Blaze X 90 LED fixture as well.
Appreciate your posting on this, thank you. I thought it was Freshwater or Saltwater based on the background pictures that change on the app when you select the button. I received that info when I looked at the FAQ on the PARwise site. I'll post the screenshot below.The button under Home changes from Air to Water mode. In your screenshot above, you are in water mode. There is a small water icon next to the PAR label that indicates 'Immersion Effect Correction Factor Applied' if you click on it.
I don't believe there is a way to switch between salt and fresh water.
There is a PARwise user group on Facebook you might want to join. I posted there yesterday about my concern of the PARwise reading about 100 par lower than the MQ-510. The main guy at ITC for PARwise in Europe answered that post this morning (on a Sunday)! He stated each PARwise is calibrated and tested at the factory before being shipped and he offered to send me the QC data sheet for my unit's calibration if I wanted it. That's pretty awesome customer service if you ask me.
Yep, agree 100%. I found their customer service to be good though.It's the worse lack of documentation I've ever seen for $300.00.
I'm doing more testing today and tomorrow. I'll let you know what my thoughts are.Yep, agree 100%. I found their customer service to be good though.
As to the accuracy, I've nothing to compare it with so I dunno. I just hope it's right.
Any more testing done? Thinking of pulling the trigger on buying this meter. How has it performed for you underwater with the Blaze compared to Apogee?I'm doing more testing today and tomorrow. I'll let you know what my thoughts are.
Hey Jojo,Any more testing done? Thinking of pulling the trigger on buying this meter. How has it performed for you underwater with the Blaze compared to Apogee?
Are you using some sort of wand to hold it?
I would agree with this. It definitely won't show fine details in the spectral graph, but it does change between metal Halide and LED.Gauging by some of the shared screenshots, the spectrum peaks appear accurate, but the overall graphs of the spectral distributions do not appear representative of the light sources they depict.
Hi!Hey Jojo,
I haven't had time. I will be doing some tomorrow or this weekend most likely.
I have two, brand new Illumagic Blaze X 90s and I wanted to add some color to the Metal Halides. I have one up and I ran some initial PAR tests just to make sure I wasn't frying my Acros with MH and LED.
I'm going to test both independently. The guys that make PARwise want me to send them my results compared to the Apogee. I just haven't had time lately.
If I had to advise you, I would tell you to buy it. My Acropora results tell me that it's more accurate than the Apogee MQ-510.
I have a wand for the Apogee, but sadly not the PARwise. It would make it MUCH easier so I will look into picking one of those up. I usually hold it by the cord about 6 inches back from the main box sensor so I don't interfere with light transmission. That's without the wand.
Hey @AlbertGFHi!
Any news? I'm waiting for your tests to decide if I buy one or not.
Thank you!
Please let us know where to order that holder if you like it.Hey @AlbertGF
Yes, I did some yesterday and will be doing more today and tomorrow. I ordered a 3D printed holder for the PARwise so my hand doesn't skew any data. That will be in tomorrow and I will finalize the tests and post them here.
Please let us know where to order that holder if you like it.
Was that the Seneye holder?Will do, I bought it from 3dreefgear.com
I'll let you know how it holds when it arrives later tomorrow. You also need a 3/8 inch rod that doesn't come with it. You can get them at Lowes, Home depot, etc. It's 3/8 or 0.375 diameter.
I'll let you know.
YesWas that the Seneye holder?
Seneye Reef Par Meter Holder
This holder allows for you to quickly slide your Seneye in to test the par in your tank. A standard fiberglass rod like the one linked below will fit right into the hole as your pole to hold, so you keep your hands out of the tank. Any rod that is 0.375 inches in diameter will fit...3dreefgear.com
Super work, thank you very much! In my shopping basketOk everyone,
I won't post all of my research, I'll just get to the point. Here are some basic readings.
For reference, my lighting is 11 inches above the top of the water.
My Acropora start at 12 inches under the water and go down to about 15 inches under.
These readings are with all flow off, water totally still.
1) 250W dual bulb Metal Halide and dual LED running at same time PAR readings:
- ITC PARwise - 244 to 260 PAR
- Apogee MQ-510 - 340 to 355 PAR
2) 250w Metal Halide only
- ITC PARwise - 165 PAR
- Apogee MQ-510 - 240 PAR
Ok, now for my thoughts on which is possibly correct. I switched to Metal Halide within 3 weeks of starting this new Acropora system, from the LEDs. I was wanting the best possible outcome and I knew MH would go a long way in assuring that.
About 2 months into the Halides, my Acros were doing very good, but wasn't showing much color and I had one ORA Grape Juice Acro that was turning a bit brown, like it was starved for light. I couldn't rectify that in my mind as my Apogee PAR meter was reading 300 to 320 PAR 12ninches under the water. So I waited.
After a lot of thinking, I added one of my new Illumagic Blaze X 90s to the front of the tank and angled it about 20 degrees to cover the Acropora. I adjusted the fixture to low intensity in case it was too much on the Acropora.
Within 2 weeks, I noticed some of my Maricultured Acropora coloring up a bit with different colors and having more PE than normal. I added the second Illumagic Blaze to the rear of the tank and angled it forward.
It hasn't been a long time to give final thoughts, but I monitor the tank hourly. I've had great success with it and since adjusting my lighting to reflect 100 additional PAR on the Apogee, but correct PAR (with what it normally should be), instead of bleaching and retracted polyps, I'm getting GREAT results.
I have also notice that I'm not really using any Alk, Calcium, etc. A little, but like 0.10 to 0.20 change every two or three days.
I was SHOCKED to watch my tests run yesterday and I had dropped from 9.3 DKH to 8.1. Calcium had dropped about 40 or 50 points. That's a clear indication to me that the corals are getting the PAR they need now and are utilizing the available calcium, etc.
This is an educated guess, but I believe the ITC PARwise is correct and what should be used to adjust PAR. Remember, BRS had a video on YouTube testing the Seneye and the Apogee. They also found the Apogee to be very high in its PAR readings and the Seneye was almost perfect.
Buy the PARwise, tell them I sent you . Here are two graphs that I took. First one is MH and LED and the second one is MH only. I have the LED adjusted to maybe 40% and mostly blue. So this isn't a representation of full spectrum on the LED, but it is on the Halide. These are underwater, 12 inches.