Persistent yellow water despite ROX 0.8 and purigen

seabedoasis

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Hi all,

I am having troubles with persistent yellow water in my 26 gallon lagoon. I was running BRS ROX 0.8 in a BRS mini reactor with a Sicce Syncra 1.5, but switched to Purigen by Seachem (usually used in FW tanks) when the carbon was not removing the yellow tint. I was recently dealing with dinos and dosed peroxide, the effects on water chemistry of which I do not fully understand (but the dinos are beaten back!) My working theory is that my biopellets, which are run in a reactor after the activated carbon, are clogging the carbon's porous structure prematurely and not allowing it to capture discoloring organic compounds, but my tank does not have any noticeable amount of bacterial mulm. Water changes work somewhat but I would like a lower-maintenance solution. If the Purigen does not work in a few days I will try Cuprisorb. The tank inhabitants all seem fine. Thanks everyone for the help.

Tank water
IMG_2168.jpg

Freshly mixed
IMG_2169.jpg
 
Forgot to mention, I also used a diy calcium-carbonate "coral snow" flocculant which did not help.
 
Nothing works better than ozone.

However, it’s overkill for a 20 gallon. Your water isn’t that yellow.
 
Hi all,

I am having troubles with persistent yellow water in my 26 gallon lagoon. I was running BRS ROX 0.8 in a BRS mini reactor with a Sicce Syncra 1.5, but switched to Purigen by Seachem (usually used in FW tanks) when the carbon was not removing the yellow tint. I was recently dealing with dinos and dosed peroxide, the effects on water chemistry of which I do not fully understand (but the dinos are beaten back!) My working theory is that my biopellets, which are run in a reactor after the activated carbon, are clogging the carbon's porous structure prematurely and not allowing it to capture discoloring organic compounds, but my tank does not have any noticeable amount of bacterial mulm. Water changes work somewhat but I would like a lower-maintenance solution. If the Purigen does not work in a few days I will try Cuprisorb. The tank inhabitants all seem fine. Thanks everyone for the help.

Tank water
IMG_2168.jpg

Freshly mixed
IMG_2169.jpg

I've had something similar happen to me in the past,.

I couldn't clear it, but eventually after a month or so it just went away as the tank balanced itself.
It was probably being released from something in tank.

Simplest solution if you don't mind waiting.
 
Hi all,

I am having troubles with persistent yellow water in my 26 gallon lagoon. I was running BRS ROX 0.8 in a BRS mini reactor with a Sicce Syncra 1.5, but switched to Purigen by Seachem (usually used in FW tanks) when the carbon was not removing the yellow tint. I was recently dealing with dinos and dosed peroxide, the effects on water chemistry of which I do not fully understand (but the dinos are beaten back!) My working theory is that my biopellets, which are run in a reactor after the activated carbon, are clogging the carbon's porous structure prematurely and not allowing it to capture discoloring organic compounds, but my tank does not have any noticeable amount of bacterial mulm. Water changes work somewhat but I would like a lower-maintenance solution. If the Purigen does not work in a few days I will try Cuprisorb. The tank inhabitants all seem fine. Thanks everyone for the help.

Tank water
IMG_2168.jpg

Freshly mixed
IMG_2169.jpg
Do you have a full tank shot? Just wondering how heavy is your bio load. My 29 gallon biocube doesn't have any carbon used and the water is as clear as the freshly mixed batch of water. But my bio load is relatively low at this point. (half dozen LPS and two fish)
 
I wouldn’t run cuprisorb unless you are struggling with heavy metals.

It will deplete ions you want as well.

I honestly wouldn’t bother much with the yellow water though. Crystal clear water over long term isn’t too realistic without ozone, and honestly, not worth chasing.

Could be worth taking out the biopellets and see what that does though.
 
Do you have a full tank shot? Just wondering how heavy is your bio load. My 29 gallon biocube doesn't have any carbon used and the water is as clear as the freshly mixed batch of water. But my bio load is relatively low at this point. (half dozen LPS and two fish)
Don't have a current FTS and the lights are off but I have 5 fish and feed about a 1/2 cube worth of Rod's food per day. Corals are all softy and LPS frags, about a dozen total.
 
I wouldn’t run cuprisorb unless you are struggling with heavy metals.

It will deplete ions you want as well.

I honestly wouldn’t bother much with the yellow water though. Crystal clear water over long term isn’t too realistic without ozone, and honestly, not worth chasing.

Could be worth taking out the biopellets and see what that does though.
Okay thanks for the warning I won't run cuprisorb.
 
Hi all,

I am having troubles with persistent yellow water in my 26 gallon lagoon. I was running BRS ROX 0.8 in a BRS mini reactor with a Sicce Syncra 1.5, but switched to Purigen by Seachem (usually used in FW tanks) when the carbon was not removing the yellow tint. I was recently dealing with dinos and dosed peroxide, the effects on water chemistry of which I do not fully understand (but the dinos are beaten back!) My working theory is that my biopellets, which are run in a reactor after the activated carbon, are clogging the carbon's porous structure prematurely and not allowing it to capture discoloring organic compounds, but my tank does not have any noticeable amount of bacterial mulm. Water changes work somewhat but I would like a lower-maintenance solution. If the Purigen does not work in a few days I will try Cuprisorb. The tank inhabitants all seem fine. Thanks everyone for the help.

Tank water
IMG_2168.jpg

Freshly mixed
IMG_2169.jpg
Looks ok to me.
 
I quite using white buckets and now my water looks fine lol. As long as i can see end to end in the tanks I don't worry what the water looks like in a white bucket. There's too many more important things like water chemistry to worry about IMO
 

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